No it's not normal bleed usually happens when the light flares from behind the reticle not when it actually lights parts of the reticle it's not meant to.I also agree that the illumination shown above is normal reflective "bleed"
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
No it's not normal bleed usually happens when the light flares from behind the reticle not when it actually lights parts of the reticle it's not meant to.I also agree that the illumination shown above is normal reflective "bleed"
If you end up not liking the scope, I will buy it from you for what you paid for it. I'll be in New Zealand in October and could pick it up from our Christchurch office before or after I go hunt. PM me anytime.That would be hard I'm in NZ. I just asked here to see if it's the norm as by the time it's landed in NZ they are not cheap. I can deal with it but if I paid for illumination it'd be nice if it was usable.
I have can see it all on the lowest setting looking out at dusk. I'm not sending the scope back until I have another as if it doesn't the important aiming device functions properly then that comes first but I'd preferred to have brought it without illumination and saved some weight and money.Have you looked at it outside in very low light, on the lowest setting where you actually need illumination?
Unlikely, if it dials,tracks, and passes a drop test I'll be holding on to it and trying for either a partial refund or until they have one ready to send me without the issue.If you end up not liking the scope, I will buy it from you for what you paid for it. I'll be in New Zealand in October and could pick it up from our Christchurch office before or after I go hunt. PM me anytime.
10-4.Unlikely, if it dials,tracks, and passes a drop test I'll be holding on to it and trying for either a partial refund or until they have one ready to send me without the issue.
Are you hunting here?
I'm sure you know but skins won't be great in October as they will be loosing their winter coats horns obviously as good as anytime. If you had time free (guessing your diy based on time of year) I could probably get you onto some Chamois too.10-4.
Yes I am, Tahr is the current plan.
Right on. I’ll PM you. Thanks!I'm sure you know but skins won't be great in October as they will be loosing their winter coats horns obviously as good as anytime. If you had time free (guessing your diy based on time of year) I could probably get you onto some Chamois too.
It's 100% normal for any part of the reticle to catch the led emission when it is too bright.No it's not normal bleed usually happens when the light flares from behind the reticle not when it actually lights parts of the reticle it's not meant to.


Maybe I've not run a NF but I've not seen it in leupolds, swaros, and a bunch of cheaper optics. Don't disagree that looks similar.It's 100% normal for any part of the reticle to catch the led emission when it is too bright.
ShvF1 center cross only illumination
View attachment 731424
All my NF scopes do this.
Rs1.2
View attachment 731425
The SHV illumination flares out badly. Worst I've seen on a scope and not clean like the NXS models.Maybe I've not run a NF but I've not seen it in leupolds, swaros, and a bunch of cheaper optics. Don't disagree that looks similar.
Its the same in the Trijicon Ten Miles and Bushnell LRTS I have looked through. I have more than a few of those NF and they are all just like the Maven.Maybe I've not run a NF but I've not seen it in leupolds, swaros, and a bunch of cheaper optics. Don't disagree that looks similar.
I said that early on too, no need for it on that scope. Shave a few ounces and do away with the illuminationHell... I forgot my rs1.2 even had illumination and I've shot multiple times at the end of legal shooting light. That's how much it's actually needed. I'd like to be able to tear those bits out to save a little weight.
I've killed piles of small rabbits, squirrels, and coyotes at WAY past legal big game hunting shooting light with these scopes. None of my QTY 3 RS1.2s have ever had the illumination reticle battery put in them.Hell... I forgot my rs1.2 even had illumination and I've shot multiple times at the end of legal shooting light. That's how much it's actually needed. I'd like to be able to tear those bits out to save a little weight.
Will let you know about how it is in NZ bush but I'm south island based and mostly hunt tops. Hunt the Westcoast a bit thoughIf a reticle requires illumination to be seen, it's a bad reticle. I never use the feature and won't buy a scope that has a reticle that needs to have it turned on to use.
Hell... I forgot my rs1.2 even had illumination and I've shot multiple times at the end of legal shooting light. That's how much it's actually needed. I'd like to be able to tear those bits out to save a little weight.
I said that early on too, no need for it on that scope. Shave a few ounces and do away with the illumination



Possible, only one way to find out but I doubt that’s going to happen.I have a completely unfounded imaginary theory that the battery cap portion provides a bumper flex jolt absorption zone that helps in the zero retention testing...
I didn’t think that reticle was new, was pretty sure they had both of those options back when I bought my scope but can’t say with 100% certaintyMaven sent an email today and I was hoping it was a re-stock notification for the RS1.2 MIL, but no...instead it was introducing a different MOA reticle. Now they have three reticles, two of which are MOA.
Both MOA scopes are in stock in both colors. No MIL scopes are in stock. That's what you call a clue, Maven!
I've got a fever, and the only prescription is MORE MIL SCOPES!
SHR-MIL (MIL)
View attachment 731565
MOA-2 (MOA)
View attachment 731566
SHR-W (MOA)
View attachment 731567