Lightweight Backcountry 6.5 Creed Rifles Under $1000

[SDHNTR]

Can you please lay out specifically the mechanical issues with Tikkas? From barrel, to trigger, to action, to bolt? Not a bait, it’s a real question.

Fair enough. These are not necessarily all mechanical issues, but here are 3 things I personally dislike about them:
1. Plastic parts: trigger guard, magazines, bolt shroud on older models, cheap stocks. Feels cheap in the hands.
2. One size fits all actions. You buy a short action cartridge chambering and get an unnecessarily longer overall rifle. I prefer a choice in short or long action depending on cartridge.
3. Floating recoil lug design. I prefer a traditional fixed or sandwiched lug.

Sorry to offend. I just prefer other options. No denying they shoot well on average though.

 

[Antares]

Fair enough. These are not necessarily all mechanical issues,…

None of those are mechanical issues. Just preferences.

 

[SDHNTR]

None of those are mechanical issues. Just preferences.

I could debate that, but I’m not going to. And I never said my personal dislike of Tikkas was mechanical in nature.

 

[Formidilosus]

Fair enough. These are not necessarily all mechanical issues, but here are 3 things I personally dislike about them:
1. Plastic parts: trigger guard, magazines, bolt shroud on older models, cheap stocks. Feels cheap in the hands.

The polymer trigger guard works fantastically in cold weather, and having used both the factory and aftermarket metal ones- the factory one is better in the cold. As for the magazines, that’s one of the strong suits of the rifle. A single stack, single feed polymer magazine is one of the smoothest and most reliable mag designs available. From a reliability and durability standpoint nearly all modern magazines for rifles and pistol made for combat are polymer.

The Tikka stock is literally no different than any other plastic stock on any mainstream rifle except that it is stiffer and less prone to forend flex.

2. One size fits all actions. You buy a short action cartridge chambering and get an unnecessarily longer overall rifle. I prefer a choice in short or long action depending on cartridge.

A T3 is 3/8” longer than a Remington 700 SA. This comes up as a mark against Tikka, but the objective difference is so small as to be ridiculous other than pure pedantry. Not to mention the issue with most short actions (and LA) is magazine length restrictions. T3’s do not have that issue for SA cartridges

3. Floating recoil lug design. I prefer a traditional fixed or sandwiched lug.

Functionally it is as good, and maybe a better design. From a design or use standpoint, there is no issue with it

Sorry to offend. I just prefer other options. No denying they shoot well on average though.

No offense at all- it’s just a rifle. I was curious because having used a lot of “custom” actions as well as piles of barrels on Remington, Winchester, Howa, Savage, Barrett, Sako, etc., rifles right next to Tikkas in truly nasty conditions, T3’s are objectively better in nearly every single aspect. The action is smoother than any of the US customs with no bolt binding, the integrated rail is better for optic mounting, the triggers are as good as the vast majority of aftermarket triggers yet are actually drop safe and perform well in ice/snow, the magazines do better in ice and snow than all save the AI AW mags, the barrels are as good as any made, and the stock is stiff and of a decent design for recoil.

Tikkas are not Rigby’s, but neither are Remingtons, Winchester’s, CA’s, Barrett, Kimber, or any of the usual “custom” rifles in America, and yet Tikkas out rifle all of them.

 

[SDHNTR]

I just don’t like the looks and feel of polymer. Not a Glock fan either.

On the length thing, I hear you on the Remington comparison, but what if Tikka made their own short actions like every other company? That would make a genuine difference.

Just curious, have you ever seen any circumstances of metal on metal wear or deformation of that recoil lug? I have. And sensitivity to action torque. Sent accuracy all to hell. Easy fix tho, I suppose. My other beef is that floating lug makes action bedding tricky.

I guess I’m just a little old school. I like my rifles the way I like my rifles.

 

[TwoBrokeShooters]

I just don’t like the looks and feel of polymer. Not a Glock fan either.

On the length thing, I hear you on the Remington comparison, but what if Tikka made their own short actions like every other company? That would make a genuine difference.

Just curious, have you ever seen any circumstances of metal on metal wear or deformation of that recoil lug? I have. And sensitivity to action torque. Sent accuracy all to hell. Easy fix tho, I suppose. My other beef is that floating lug makes action bedding tricky.

I guess I’m just a little old school. I like my rifles the way I like my rifles.

Most everyone likes things the way they like them, however most all of what you're saying is still personal preference.

 

[coloradoan]

Most everyone likes things the way they like them, however most all of what you're saying is still personal preference.

Personal preference is important though, and sometimes people want to step in and say that X or Y is objectively the best as though their personal experience, however extensive, should shut down the conversation. People should buy rifles they will enjoy owning and shooting, and if that means no polymer trigger guard then good for them. There is very little a person cannot do with one of these rifles that they could do with another in terms of hunting.

 

[SDHNTR]

There is very little a person cannot do with one of these rifles that they could do with another in terms of hunting.

I’ll give you that. It’s personal preference for sure. I admittedly get a bit nostalgic when it comes to hunting and like rifles that feel and look a certain way personally. I understand and do not discount the advantages of modern materials and processes, but there is a point where I draw a personal line. I’m ok with the practicality of carbon/fiberglass stocks and Cerakote and such, just no thanks on the rails and vents and extended aics mags and stuff! A hunting gun should look like a hunting gun! Again to me, just to me people. Don’t get your chonies in a wad! This recent trend towards overly tactical stuff entering the hunting realm makes me wanna puke. Despite any functional reasons, you’d never catch me afield with a chassis rifle or some similar abomination! Hell, I don’t even like vertical grips and muzzle cans. Now get off my lawn kid!

 

[Formidilosus]

I just don’t like the looks and feel of polymer. Not a Glock fan either.

On the length thing, I hear you on the Remington comparison, but what if Tikka made their own short actions like every other company? That would make a genuine difference.

Not really. By the time you optimized for a lot of SA cartridges with a 3+ inch mag box length, etc. you’d be right back at the T3 medium length action

Just curious, have you ever seen any circumstances of metal on metal wear or deformation of that recoil lug? I have. And sensitivity to action torque. Sent accuracy all to hell. Easy fix tho, I suppose. My other beef is that floating lug makes action bedding tricky.

Sure, the older lug would get marred from the big cartridges some- never saw it cause an issue though. As for action torque, nah. Degrease, loctite, and torque to 65 in-lbs for both screws. The couple I have bedded hasn’t been any more difficult than any other rifle.

I guess I’m just a little old school. I like my rifles the way I like my rifles.

And there isn’t anything wrong with that. Your first post just looked like you were saying that there is something “wrong” with T3’s and that’s why I asked. I really dig classic rifles, but as a tool to be used, Tikka’s are near tops.

 

[SDHNTR]

Could you give me an explanation of how you bed one? I have a friend that wants me to bed his because our local gunsmiths are too slammed. I’ve turned him away because I’m just not comfortable. Do you effectively glue the lug in place in the stock with bedding compound? And then leave the top half exposed, covered in release agent so that it fits in the slot on the receiver? Or? A general description of the process would be appreciated.

And yes it was a .300 wm several years old where it looked like that lug had gone through the garbage disposal! That metal on metal and the difficulty bedding (or at least the foreign nature of the process to me) has just turned me off that floating lug design. Please enlighten me as to the advantages of that design over a fixed or sandwiched lug. I just don’t understand it.

 

[TX_Diver]

@Formidilosus

you mention the integrated rail on the tikkas a few posts back. What rings do you like for the tikkas? I’ve liked the Talley lightweights the last few years but they don’t utilize the tikka rail for mounting. My main use is a light hunting gun that will also be used for some recreational shooting (non competitive).

 

[BrentH]

No complaints with my Hells Canyon Speed in 6.5cm. Put the Mcarbo trigger spring in it, and it shoots the factory ELD-X very well.

 

[Dobermann]

@Formidilosus

you mention the integrated rail on the tikkas a few posts back. What rings do you like for the tikkas? I’ve liked the Talley lightweights the last few years but they don’t utilize the tikka rail for mounting. My main use is a light hunting gun that will also be used for some recreational shooting (non competitive).

I'm not Form, but ... he has often recommended the Sportsmatch rings here, which have the recoil lug pin - you can use the search function with Form's username, and the model number, plus the UK supplier, will come right up.

Pretty sure Form also suggested Hawkins a while back.

 

[Dobermann]

Could you give me an explanation of how you bed one? I have a friend that wants me to bed his because our local gunsmiths are too slammed. I’ve turned him away because I’m just not comfortable. Do you effectively glue the lug in place in the stock with bedding compound? And then leave the top half exposed, covered in release agent so that it fits in the slot on the receiver? Or? A general description of the process would be appreciated.

@Formidilosus: perhaps this is a candidate for the next photo-essay?

I know I asked about hogging out a couple of weeks back ... but seeing pics of the exact process you use could probably help out lots of us ...

 

[Outdoorsman12b]

The polymer trigger guard works fantastically in cold weather, and having used both the factory and aftermarket metal ones- the factory one is better in the cold. As for the magazines, that’s one of the strong suits of the rifle. A single stack, single feed polymer magazine is one of the smoothest and most reliable mag designs available. From a reliability and durability standpoint nearly all modern magazines for rifles and pistol made for combat are polymer.

The Tikka stock is literally no different than any other plastic stock on any mainstream rifle except that it is stiffer and less prone to forend flex.





A T3 is 3/8” longer than a Remington 700 SA. This comes up as a mark against Tikka, but the objective difference is so small as to be ridiculous other than pure pedantry. Not to mention the issue with most short actions (and LA) is magazine length restrictions. T3’s do not have that issue for SA cartridges




Functionally it is as good, and maybe a better design. From a design or use standpoint, there is no issue with it




No offense at all- it’s just a rifle. I was curious because having used a lot of “custom” actions as well as piles of barrels on Remington, Winchester, Howa, Savage, Barrett, Sako, etc., rifles right next to Tikkas in truly nasty conditions, T3’s are objectively better in nearly every single aspect. The action is smoother than any of the US customs with no bolt binding, the integrated rail is better for optic mounting, the triggers are as good as the vast majority of aftermarket triggers yet are actually drop safe and perform well in ice/snow, the magazines do better in ice and snow than all save the AI AW mags, the barrels are as good as any made, and the stock is stiff and of a decent design for recoil.

Tikkas are not Rigby’s, but neither are Remingtons, Winchester’s, CA’s, Barrett, Kimber, or any of the usual “custom” rifles in America, and yet Tikkas out rifle all of them.

Can you expand on how the plastic trigger guard is better in cold? Just curious as I always was a bit worried that an impact in the cold would make it more prone to shattering.

 

[z987k]

Can you expand on how the plastic trigger guard is better in cold? Just curious as I always was a bit worried that an impact in the cold would make it more prone to shattering.

Certain polymers are less brittle in cold than aluminum. The tikka one is glass reinforced and can be considerably stronger(not actually a good word) than aluminum for the same weight, and giving him the benefit of the doubt on the cold weather claim, they must have picked an appropriate polymer.

 

[z987k]

On the length thing, I hear you on the Remington comparison, but what if Tikka made their own short actions like every other company? That would make a genuine difference.

They do. It's called a Sako.

 

[TX_Diver]

I'm not Form, but ... he has often recommended the Sportsmatch rings here, which have the recoil lug pin - you can use the search function with Form's username, and the model number, plus the UK supplier, will come right up.

Pretty sure Form also suggested Hawkins a while back.

10-4. I've already got Talley's for the next one (superlite T3x in 6.5CM) but was just curious as I never really gave the integrated rail a 2nd thought.

 

[Dobermann]

10-4. I've already got Talley's for the next one (superlite T3x in 6.5CM) but was just curious as I never really gave the integrated rail a 2nd thought.

Again, I'm not Form, but ... there's a couple of threads here where he mentions having seen some issues with Talleys, and points out that an additional rail is just unnecessary added weight and bulk for what we do; the recoil lug recess on the integrated rail plus rings that have a recoil stop pin is a great combination - you're then holding your optic in place in two planes, not (primarily) one.

 

[Formidilosus]

Could you give me an explanation of how you bed one? I have a friend that wants me to bed his because our local gunsmiths are too slammed. I’ve turned him away because I’m just not comfortable. Do you effectively glue the lug in place in the stock with bedding compound? And then leave the top half exposed, covered in release agent so that it fits in the slot on the receiver? Or? A general description of the process would be appreciated.

I don’t really do it anymore with Tikkas, but open up lug recess in stock, a drop of super glue to hold lug in action, dab a bit under the tang, lug area and under the front part of action shank. Not full bedding.

And yes it was a .300 wm several years old where it looked like that lug had gone through the garbage disposal! That metal on metal and the difficulty bedding (or at least the foreign nature of the process to me) has just turned me off that floating lug design. Please enlighten me as to the advantages of that design over a fixed or sandwiched lug. I just don’t understand it.

The 300 WM was more than likely a T3 with aluminum lug? “Better” may be subjective, and it’s the totality of the system, but Tikkas have consistently been done if the, if not the easiest rifles to get to shoot, and not picky about what they do shoot.

@Formidilosus

you mention the integrated rail on the tikkas a few posts back. What rings do you like for the tikkas? I’ve liked the Talley lightweights the last few years but they don’t utilize the tikka rail for mounting. My main use is a light hunting gun that will also be used for some recreational shooting (non competitive).

As was stated- Sportsmatch TO84 for 30mm by a long shot. I’ve seen too many tally’s split to go that route.