Lets talk Chainsaws

[TedO]

MS261 would be perfect for your situation and it will last your lifetime. It's my favorite do-it-all, and the one I pick up the most. Yes, it's a pro model, but "longrangelead" is right, they're more money upfront, but cheaper to repair, and will ultimately run strong for longer. You can do most repairs yourself.

If you were going to be felling a lot of trees, I'd recommend a 461 full wrap, with a 24-28" bar, but that sounds like overkill for your situation.

 

[cnelk]

Stihl fan here too.
Use mine for firewood cutting and making lumber with my Alaskan jig (best to use a ripping chain for that)

Best tip is do what KSRancher said above and file the rakers down

 

[Tradchef]

The MS 261 C-M rips for its size and is a great saw. The 400 C is a nice one as well. I've heard good things about the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf ( but I think the 261 is a better saw in that category) and the Echo CS - 620P

 

[huntsman22]

 

[jolemons]

I have at least six Stihls. My local saw shop, a Stihl and Echo dealer, is really satisfied with the Echo saw performance. I've got about three of them now also, and for the price, they're great.

Sent from my SM-S936U using Tapatalk

 

[pirogue]

I moved into a house in 1986, that had a need for firewood. Bought a Stihl 028 Wood Boss. Still got it. Later moved and some years it hasn’t seen any use, but fires up when I need it. Always just ran it out of gas, before putting it away.

 

[jdmaxwell]

Recommend MS 261 also for your situation and pair of chaps.

 

[PoniBoy]

I’d go with the 271. Run it with non ethanol fuel and call it good.

 

[dsotm]

CS590 over either of those

 

[longrangelead]

What is the best way to store the saw long term? Just run it out of fuel or...

Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

based on repairs and personal experience using non-E or canned gas, leave the gas in the carb/lines. The newer diaphragms dry out without gas on them making them stiff.

The worst is running it dry or sitting until the gas evaporates with ethanol in the fuel. The ethanol attracts moisture which causes the green corrosion crud on brass parts as the gas evaporates. The ethanol also attacks the lines/diaphragms.
The new parts are ethanol resistant but not ethanol proof.

Ethanol gas isn't necessarily terrible going through the saw in a scenario of high volume cutting as long as the ethanol is run out of the saw and non-e run in it briefly before long term storage.

 

[Ranger 692]

Stihl 362c or 400c. Get the longest bar you can run 25” would be good on both. Long bars = standing up straight when bucking and less back fatigue = safer. Lots of guys equate short bars being safer but in reality they are not(within reason)

I cut from 4K to 9K in elevation and the M Tronic feature on these saws is great adjusting gas/air mix automatically. Otherwise if you are up and down in elevation you’ll be adjusting carbs constantly.

Keep your chains sharp.

Old McCullochs are sweet though for a little hot rod retro cutting if you can find one.

 

[Bighorse]

Go Big with Stihl

Have a few Bars and a few chains

MS 661C for me

I run a smaller 18” bar Stihl for limb work

 

[RockAndSage]

Many old saws from the 1990s like the 038 are like a bare bones f150 - nothing fancy and not the most power to weight, but big enough for many things and small enough a normal person can use it all day.

Pro saws are more $ up front but cheaper to repair.

The 400 with exhaust or a ported 362 are wicked little firewood saws.

OP, I'll +1 what these guys are saying. If you really wanted to have a command of that saw, get an older Stihl, buy a rebuild kit for it and go through the thing in an afternoon, and you'd essentially have a brand-new, bulletproof saw that you literally know inside and out. Less plastic, more knowledge, lifetime chainsaw for what you're describing. Getting it ported would give you all the power you could ever want.

If you go with a new saw, the pro-grade saws are the way to go.

 

[brancher147]

OP, Either of those saws is fine. I have always run stihl but mostly because our local shops service stihl. Go with whatever has the closer or better service shop.

 

[longrangelead]

Go Big with Stihl

Have a few Bars and a few chains

MS 661C for me

I run a smaller 18” bar Stihl for limb work

That is a gorgeous cedar board!

 

[Hickory1991]

Like a few fella’s have mentioned you can’t go wrong with a still. Bigger the better. I have been running still for a long time. MS250 and an 056 Magnum since the 80’s. That 056 has always been a beast. Have a 24, 28, and 36 inch bars for it. Been cutting ice storm damage all year on my deer camp. Most important is maintenance. Keep it clean and sharp and keep air filter clean.

 

[Silveroddo]

I got a (barely) used echo 4910 for a similar use case and it has been great so far. 225$ for a 50cc saw with a magnesium case.

Everything I saw said it was more saw than the rancher series so that pushed me to it or the 590, but the 590 are quite heavy for my use case.

I’m used to poulan pros historically so I like it a lot

I generally hate chainsaws and saw work, but I do forestry and gravel road maintenance and need to have a decent saw in the truck to deal with downed trees. My dad is an old logger and we grew up with Stihl and Husqvarna, he's had them all and had been doing the deep dive and an Echo 4910 is what he came up with for a homeowner/carry in the truck saw. The price is right on them, and they're light and easy to use. I carry those premixed steel cans of gas and go through 6-8 of those a year, every time I need it its ready to go.

 

[camping1601]

IMO a pro saw in the 60cc range with a 20'' bar and full chisel chain is a sweet spot for a do-all saw. My 362 runs right with my 500i until you get into bigger wood. Do learn how to properly hand file a chain and that makes a big difference.

Edit: I see some suggestions for for a 500i. I have one and it's a blast to run in big wood but I always go for the 362 for most cutting. I see Husqvarna has a FI saw in the 60cc range. That may replace my 362.

 

[TaperPin]

I remember being confused about the difference in Stihl “farm” saws vs mid range vs pro models. The farm/homeowner saws are cheaper, a little heavier and have the worst vibration dampening. Mid priced saws may not put out any more hp than homeowner saws, but are a little lighter and easier to use all day because of better vibration control. Pro saws are the lightest, put out the most hp, also have good vibration control and often have oversized air cleaners.

Having seen a number of guys get their saws into cut resistant chaps I’m a big fan of them. The nature of the cutters is to not only cut fabric, but it grabs it and additional teeth dig in deeper. An accident prone friend had shot himself in the lower leg with a 22 and had some bullet fragments that were never fished out. After a chainsaw accident in the same general area without chaps, a number of those bullet fragments were gone. *chuckle*

 

[Dogone]

I bought an 80cc Chinese clone saw. Works fine for a second saw on big stuff. Half the price of a name brand saw. Use premix gas always. Even pro loggers use it . Keep your chain sharp and be real careful.