SouthPaw
WKR
Adjustability/fit.Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
Adjustability/fit.Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
IMO, the Tikka stocks are quite good for an inexpensive factory composite. Depends on your priorities, but a guy can save a bunch of weight with some of the aftermarket options.Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
Weight isn’t a huge concern, I’m hoping to end up between 8-9lbs scoped. With a 300wm I don’t want it to be too light. Just want to make sure I’m not missing an easy upgrade. I’ve had folks in “gun shops” say they’re flimsyIMO, the Tikka stocks are quite good for an inexpensive factory composite. Depends on your priorities, but a guy can save a bunch of weight with some of the aftermarket options.
stiffness, grip angle, comb angle, ARCA/pic rail/bipod compatibility, weight (stock is 30oz and doesn't give you much in exchange)Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
I’ve had folks in “gun shops” say they’re flimsy
Yeah I agree I think they are plenty stiff for my needs. I went with a stockys to save half a pound. But the factory stock with a limbsaver is solid.Go in and try to flex the forend by just grabbing it. Then do the same with a Browning, Savage, or Bergara normal synthetic stock.
You will see why listening to most people isn’t conducive to correct information.
Quick question, I’ve replaced the stocks on 2 of three tikkas and am working on a new build. Is there any reason other than cool factor and ergonomics that I “should” replace the factory stock?
Where did find the ctr cheek riser? I can't seem to find it listed for sale anywhere.Little bit of diy and my factory stock has a cheek riser from a ctr, the vertical grip, flush cups, arca rail and enough of a floated barrel that leaning into a barricade or bipod and the foreend still doesnt contact the barrel. Would a manners be better? Probably. But not better enough that I could justify the price. I dont feel handicapped one little bit, except maybe in the “my friends are jealous of my rifle” category.
Nicely done. I think you just sold me on the minimalist spigot/atlas combo.A little update on the 6,5 creed.
Changed the stock to a KRG Bravo CTR mag model and equipped that with arca rail, minimalist spigot with a picatinny attached and an adjustable recoil pad. I didn't care for the all black look of the stock and the shiny barrel / bronze action combo, so I painted a DIY sponge camo on the stock, and had the steel parts cerakoted in sniper gray.
Bipod upgraded to an Atlas BT69-LW17, wich I must say is pretty great piece of kit.
I added some grit tape on the grip, as I find the Bravo to be rather slippery without it.
Put on a short pic rail on the spuhr mount for quick detach flashlight use as a final touch.
I had some issues with the ctr mag not staying in under recoil, but I managed to fix that with a stronger spring on the latch and by making the mag well a bit tighter. Now it works great with very little play in it and has stayed locked in so far. I've read that I'm not the only one with the same issue, so if it ever happens again, I'll make a new locking latch for it, but so far it seems to work brilliantly.
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NF Atacr 4-16x42 MIL-C on top, muzzle brake is self made. I usually have a suppressor on as the gun is used for hunting aswell, but when I'm alone on the range the brake is just so nice to shoot and doesn't heat up like the suppressor does.
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Here's one I did up as a scouting trip rifle. I typically would carry a pistol or nothing but figured when I'm least planning on it it's when I'm most likely to find a wolf or some other non target animal I may want to take.
Started as a factory fluted blued 6.5 creedmoor superlite.
I had the barrel cut down 2.5 inches and threaded, cut down a 4 port ti pro tiny muzzle break to a 2 port, machined the top rail off the action added a Lumley bolt shroud, mtn gear titanium bolt and topped it with swfa 3-9 in sports match rings, victor company cheek riser, salmon River solutions arca pic rail and had it cerakoted.View attachment 550769View attachment 550770View attachment 550771View attachment 550772View attachment 550773
Latest Tikka toy. 18” #4 benchmark in 6 creedmoor. I had the factory 6.5 creed barrel chopped at 18” and threaded as well.
Purpose is to be able to shoot factory ammo to avoid the load bench and hunt MN whitetails. All my other bolt guns are magnums for western hunts, a gamer gun, and a 223. All basically in handload only chamberings (besides the .223). I have a 3-9 SS and sportsmatch rings that will probably get on this later this summer but the LRHS2 has been sitting in a box for too long and I wanted to play with it a bit.
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That looks like fun!Latest Tikka toy. 18” #4 benchmark in 6 creedmoor. I had the factory 6.5 creed barrel chopped at 18” and threaded as well.
Purpose is to be able to shoot factory ammo to avoid the load bench and hunt MN whitetails. All my other bolt guns are magnums for western hunts, a gamer gun, and a 223. All basically in handload only chamberings (besides the .223). I have a 3-9 SS and sportsmatch rings that will probably get on this later this summer but the LRHS2 has been sitting in a box for too long and I wanted to play with it a bit.
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