Ironwill ,DCA Super Sabres or Tac Drivers

[Ggarrett]

Has anyone done side by side testing of the Ironwill and the Super Sabres? I am already looking forward to tinkering some after this season since I have already committed to my setup for this year.

My priorities are fixed head flight, durability, wind drift, noise and then drag, in that order. I haven't messed with vanes a whole lot only have two years of us with both TAC 2.75 Drivers and Max Stealths 2.6. My general consensus of the two is that they both steer broad heads as good as I feel I can shoot, noise is negligible (To my ears, I'm often considered to be deaf) , wind drift seemed to be slightly better out of the TAC vanes. TAC takes the cake on durability and its not even close, feel like I am constantly having to replace a stealth. Granted I am very hard on everything I touch so it may not be the vanes fault.

Does anyone think that the IW or DCA are superior to the TACs? If I can justify spending $100+ on vanes to do side by side testing I will but I would rather put that money towards more arrows or broad heads. Any insight is appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[travisurkul]

Both the new Iron Will 2.5s and DCA Super Sabres are said to be as quiet or quieter than Max Stealths. The Iron Will 2.5s are a little heavier than the DCA Super Sabres, 9.0 gr vs 7.1 gr. The DCA Super Sabres have less side profile, so should have less wind drift.

As far as drag goes I do not know. The Iron Will 2.5s are a more streamlined shape that should have less drag, but the DCA Super Sabres are molded vanes with rounded edges that should also help with drag. Some testing would be needed in this category.

They both are tall vanes that will steer fixed blade broadheads well. Which will steer them better? Who knows. The Iron Will 2.5s have more surface area, but the DCA Super Sabres have more surface area high and back.

 

[Bump79]

I've done so much vane testing - both trying to be scientific and just redneck. Here's my conclusion - unless you're winning shoots on the regular you're not going to be able to measure the difference in accuracy between the vanes mentioned. Get above a >-.5" height and >=2" in length and you've got enough fletch. If you are having flight issues with that you're tune or broadhead choice needs questioned.

I've yet to have a vane increase my group size so long as I had enough on it in the first place. The primary difference in vanes is:
1) Adhesion
2) Durability
3) Noise

The Max Stealth's you're shooting does well at all of those. I wouldn't change for theoretical gains.

I've done all the reading on the IW studies. Makes perfect sense - here's a vane that fits what Bill describes that isn't often talked about. It's as high as a Max Hunter but the length of a blazer with that height further back. It's like a Q2i as well. Quieter than a Max Hunter, but no quieter than a blazer.

OPTI-VANE | Goat Tuff Products

goattuffproducts.com

100 pack of these or normal Q2i for price of 40 IW vanes. Just sayin'

 

[Billy Goat]

Takes 20-30 minutes to glue a vane per their instructions on the Super Sabre.

Before ordering, I thought it said 20-30 seconds, I figured no big deal.

First 3 fall off immediately, re-read instructions and see that I read what I wanted to, not what it said. Follow instructions and try them on 2 arrows, few shots and vanes still fall off.


I'm not saying you won't get them to stick, but I'm tired of jumping through hoops to get vane adhesion. Better things to do with my time when the differences between vanes is almost non-existent.

 

[Buffalomtn]

Takes 20-30 minutes to glue a vane per their instructions on the Super Sabre.

Before ordering, I thought it said 20-30 seconds, I figured no big deal.

First 3 fall off immediately, re-read instructions and see that I read what I wanted to, not what it said. Follow instructions and try them on 2 arrows, few shots and vanes still fall off.


I'm not saying you won't get them to stick, but I'm tired of jumping through hoops to get vane adhesion. Better things to do with my time when the differences between vanes is almost non-existent.

Not sure what you had going on but I have not have any problems getting the Super Sabres to adhere. My process, wipe shaft clean with acetone, primer pen then any super glue such as Bob Smith, wait 15 seconds. Can’t pull them off.

 

[big44a4]

As others have said you can barely outshoot the difference to notice. Also +1 super Sabre not sticking and not being quiet enough.

I use hybrid 26s and heat vanes on my setups and others I build.

 

[Billy Goat]

Not sure what you had going on but I have not have any problems getting the Super Sabres to adhere. My process, wipe shaft clean with acetone, primer pen then any super glue such as Bob Smith, wait 15 seconds. Can’t pull them off.

Acetone shafts, wipe vane with alcohol til q-tip drags, glue on with super glue brush bottle like everything else.

I followed directions exactly, except for buying maxicure, I just use the same stuff I always use.


I'm sure you can get them to stick, but I did more than what I care to do as is, and I'm not doing more.

Cheap ass bohning vanes stick like nothing else and they require nothing special. The vane market is getting so boutique, and they are convincing customers to do more to the product so as a manufacturer, they don't. I go through too many vanes to waste energy on them.

 

[awcopeland]

I also have had issues getting the super sabre (all varieties meaning 1st & 2nd gen of the large and the mini sabres) to stay attached. Super frustrating because I wanted to like them. I have since switched to the Iron Will vanes and have to say, I’m quite pleased with them. They adhere to bare carbon (haven’t tried wraps) extremely well and are a PITA to get off if you do happen to need to re-fletch. Durable enough for my needs but I have no experience with the Tac vanes so I can’t compare. Unless you just want to tinker though, I’d say save your money and time and shoot what works.

 

[Kyle Davidson]

Acetone shafts, wipe vane with alcohol til q-tip drags, glue on with super glue brush bottle like everything else.

I followed directions exactly, except for buying maxicure, I just use the same stuff I always use.


I'm sure you can get them to stick, but I did more than what I care to do as is, and I'm not doing more.

Cheap ass bohning vanes stick like nothing else and they require nothing special. The vane market is getting so boutique, and they are convincing customers to do more to the product so as a manufacturer, they don't. I go through too many vanes to waste energy on them.

Sorry you had some issues man. Please feel free to reach out if you ever have issues. I want everyone to have a great experience with the Sabres. Things I would try differently if you still have some you want to play with are:
Alcohol and dry paper towel:

1. Put the vane in the clamp.
2. Wipe the base of the vane with isopropyl alcohol (approximately 2-3 wipes)
3. Wipe the base of the vane with a DRY paper towel really be aggressive until you feel the alcohol is completely gone (3-4 wipes until you feel the friction increase)
4. Run a small bead of Maxi-Cure down the center of the vane. Just over enough to have a continuous bead. Do not spread the adhesive.
5. Place the clamp on the jig
6. Press down and hold for 10-15 seconds
7. Remove the clamp
8. Wipe excess adhesive with a clean paper towel

Primer Pen:
1. Put the vane in the clamp.
2. Test the tip of the pen so you are sure there is primer on it.
3. Wait a few seconds
4. Run a small bead of Maxi-Cure down the center of the vane. Just over enough to have a continuous bead. Do not spread the adhesive.
5. Place the clamp on the jig
6. Press down and hold for 10-15 seconds
7. Remove the clamp
8. Wipe excess adhesive with a clean paper towel

 

[Bump79]

Sorry you had some issues man. Please feel free to reach out if you ever have issues. I want everyone to have a great experience with the Sabres. Things I would try differently if you still have some you want to play with are:
Alcohol and dry paper towel:

1. Put the vane in the clamp.
2. Wipe the base of the vane with isopropyl alcohol (approximately 2-3 wipes)
3. Wipe the base of the vane with a DRY paper towel really be aggressive until you feel the alcohol is completely gone (3-4 wipes until you feel the friction increase)
4. Run a small bead of Maxi-Cure down the center of the vane. Just over enough to have a continuous bead. Do not spread the adhesive.
5. Place the clamp on the jig
6. Press down and hold for 10-15 seconds
7. Remove the clamp
8. Wipe excess adhesive with a clean paper towel

Primer Pen:
1. Put the vane in the clamp.
2. Test the tip of the pen so you are sure there is primer on it.
3. Wait a few seconds
4. Run a small bead of Maxi-Cure down the center of the vane. Just over enough to have a continuous bead. Do not spread the adhesive.
5. Place the clamp on the jig
6. Press down and hold for 10-15 seconds
7. Remove the clamp
8. Wipe excess adhesive with a clean paper towel

Just out of curiosity, why do you say don't spread the adhesive?

 

[Kyle Davidson]

Good question Bump

Short Answer: It will squish to where it needs to go.

Longer answer: If you don't get it pressed down all the way to the arrow shaft, the bigger gaps that can form under the vane will get more adhesive to bond with. Just a trick I've picked up. The Maxi-Cure adhesive has a great viscosity, not too thin and not to thick. Another reason, as the adhesive cures it gives off heat (exothermic for the nerds among us). If you wait too long that heat builds up pretty high could cause an issue for the edges.