Hoyt tuning

[trapperjay]

Shooting a spyder 34, 28.5" draw, 50#. Last year I shot 60# and had the bow well tuned. Shoulder problems caused me to decrease weight. Now, I'm getting a consistent left tear w/ bare and fletched shafts (400's, 100gr. points). I've tried moving my rest toward the riser but that's not doing the trick--it got better but I've run out of space. Any ideas?

 

[OR Archer]

How much is it tearing left with the rest running down the center of the shelf?

 

[trapperjay]

I'll set the rest back to that position and check b/c I didn't think to write that down. From memory,it's probably 1.5" at that position.

 

[OR Archer]

What does your upper cam lean look like?

 

[trapperjay]

With the sight bubble level it is square or in line w/ string

 

[mt100gr.]

Did you get 50 lb. limbs or are your 60lb limbs backed off?

 

[trapperjay]

I bought 50# limbs thinking it would give better performance

 

[J-Daddy]

Set the centershot of the rest at 13/16", measure it from the riser side not the rubber pad, make sure cam timing is correct "advance top cam about 1/8" ahead of bottom", then yoke tune the bow using a fletche shaft & a bare shaft.

 

[trapperjay]

I measured and I'm set to exactly 13/16" centershot. Is yoke tuning basically causing the cam to lean to one side or the other?

 

[mt100gr.]

Yes. Twisting or removing twists from the individual sides of the split buss cable will tune the side to side nock travel, and when finished, should have your string pushing the arrow directly forward. You need a press to do it and until you really start fine tuning, I always take out as much as I add (twists) from the opposing sides. Also, a little twist sometimes goes a very long way. Half twists is the increments I usually use, unless I know it really needs to move one way or the other.

 

[Rent Outdoor Gear]

You'll need about +2 twists on the sight window side and -2 twists on the roller guard side. The top cam needs to point slightly toward the roller guard and your left tear will be gone in a flash.

 

[trapperjay]

I'll be taking it to the shop tomorrow and ask for the yoke twists. Man this close to season is when I really want a press!

 

[Rent Outdoor Gear]

Here's how to do it without the bow press. I rarely use one unless I need to tear the limbs off a bow.

[video=youtube;X13IusvYkLA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X13IusvYkLA[/video]

Coop

 

[trapperjay]

Darin--I sure appreciate you posting this up. I watched it and in minutes I had it shooting bullet holes. I appreciate your help!

 

[Evan Williams]

Cooper is the tuning guru!

 

[trapperjay]

Cooper is the tuning guru!

I concur!

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Darin that is a hell of a tip! I've always had to spend a ton of time at the archery shop getting things right. This will be most helpful.

 

[E-2]

Could I run this method on other bows? Cough cough...PSE, PRIME

 

[dangerousD]

Awesome tip! I have a press but this is so brilliant I'm going to use it next time I need to tune or help a buddy.

 

[Rent Outdoor Gear]

Works on most bows, 1-cams too as long as there's a cutout in the cam that lines up close enough. You can also do the string - basically opposite of the cam. Draw the bow back 2-4 inches, insert rod on outside of limb and GENTLY let it down. Voila! Take the string off.