Bare shaft thoughts

[Clarson757]

If broadheads and field points hit together at distances further than you’ll hunt, that’s an acceptable result. From the arrow’s perspective, it doesn’t care how it’s made to fly straight.

If it takes your rest being 1” away from the riser to do it, maybe things will be fine maybe not.

You’re pushing the limits of what the bow is intended to operate within. If your rest is that far out, it’s because either one or both of your cams are too far to one side of the bow, not in the middle of the axle as intended. If you’re not rubbing cables, and you’re not seeing so much cam lean so as to jump a string out of its groove in the cam, maybe things are fine. Maybe it’s not.

It’s possible you’re not shooting well enough at distance with consistent enough arrows to see that the bow is out of tune. Maybe not.

Most of the information was targeted at you saying you can’t get broadheads to hit with field points. You can.

As stated, the only difference CAN be, if you tune the bow properly and shoot well, that your broadheads begin to hit low at extreme distances because of the increased drag.

I guess it just seems silly to me to argue for settling for the equipment not being set up properly. It makes sense to me, I guess, to not care enough to do it, or think it doesn’t matter. But arguing that it isn’t so is confusing.

Appreciate the reply. I’m definitely not in favor of the equipment being out of spec. I’m certain that something is off. I am planning to take it back to the shop to confirm if something isn’t within “spec”

My question is mostly around how do you know if something is off to begin with. It all started because I was getting hard right tears in paper no matter what arrow length/ shaft/ point weight. Moving the rest over a little solved that.

I’m sure I’m confusing myself more than anyone here. My rest went from just left of “0” to where is now just a hair passed “1”. I don’t know what these increments are but it didn’t seem all that drastic to achieve a perfect bare shaft. Regardless the arrows fly within my hunting distance. I’m trying to learn on the fly here so apologies if this came off argumentative. Just a nerd trying to nerd.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Appreciate the reply. I’m definitely not in favor of the equipment being out of spec. I’m certain that something is off. I am planning to take it back to the shop to confirm if something isn’t within “spec”

My question is mostly around how do you know if something is off to begin with. It all started because I was getting hard right tears in paper no matter what arrow length/ shaft/ point weight. Moving the rest over a little solved that.

I’m sure I’m confusing myself more than anyone here. My rest went from just left of “0” to where is now just a hair passed “1”. I don’t know what these increments are but it didn’t seem all that drastic to achieve a perfect bare shaft. Regardless the arrows fly within my hunting distance. I’m trying to learn on the fly here so apologies if this came off argumentative. Just a nerd trying to nerd.

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Mathews' recommended centershot is 13/16" ± 1/16". So if you're at ≈15/16" as previously stated, you're approximately ≈1/16" out of spec. I personally have no qualms about being a bit outside of their recommendation. If you do, shift your rest right to within Mathews' recommended range then shift your cams to the left (with top hats) to compensate and maintain your tune.

 

[KyleR1985]

 

[Clarson757]

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Very cool thanks for sharing. I’ll definitely take a look today and then go to the shop if anything seems off from here

 

[Clarson757]

It was a top hat. Confirmed at the shop. Got rest and sight back in line. Shooting bullet holes paper tuned with correct tune.

 

[Archerichards]

You said..." I’m wondering how much of this is the bow out of tune (just got new strings and full “tune” last month). How much of this is arrow selection? How much of this is me being human and not a perfect shot? Or, some combination of it all."

So, it's all three: Bow setup, arrow (esp spine) selection, and archer (esp grip). In Algebra terms we call this a three variable problem. Remember those? They're hard. That is why there are so many replies to your post here, and innumerable "tuning" posts on Rokslide. Maybe you will find the silver bullet or the one big adjustment that will give you a good tune, but probably not. Again, you will need to address all three.

I suggest you START with attention to your grip to make it a) on thumb side of lifeline and b) repeatable every single time. THEN, make sure you are shooting the correctly spined arrow shaft, and if you're borderline, then err on the stiff side. THEN, assuming you have a relatively modern (thus tunable) bow, make a few minor adjustments there per the responses above. Maybe you'll get arrows stacked up nice and tight (bare shafts, broad heads and field points) like the guys say above, but probably not. You may find them wandering a bit on you over the next few weeks...high, low, left, right. That is probably not your setup, rather, it's the archer (esp grip).

The closer you come to solving this three variable problem, the more it raises your game as an archer. And the more flexibility it will give you in terms of fixed vs mechanical broad heads, and the better penetration you'll get upon impact.

Good luck.

 

[Trey Arentz]

From a non-tuning perspective, I would make sure you aren't torquing your bow. If you are getting a constant right tear and you are a right handed shooter, you might be torquing your bow to the left. Tune won't matter if you are torquing your grip. It has been my biggest demise, especially when shooting a compound. I had to replace most factory grips to get one where my hand would repeat every shot.

 

[Marshfly]

Mathews are simple but it takes a press and a top hat kit. Rest to 13/16. Move top hats to get bullet hole close in. Do not move rest until top hats are dialed. Refine rest position to keep that bullet hole with a bare shaft out to 20 yards. Add a broadhead on an arrow with vanes and you will be very close if not 100% tuned out to reasonable hunting distances.

The rest has a lot of adjustment because people and shops don't want to do it right and use the top hats and time/sync cams. Don't be those guys.

 

[mod-it]

Are you under the impression that you can't "tune a bow to any arrow"? Within reason of arrow spine, of course you can. I commonly tune my bow to a 400 spine, 330 grain arrow for 3d shoots, then I will tune the bow to shoot my 340 spine, 440 grain hunting arrows, and then I tune it to shoot some old Easton xx75 2213 aluminum arrows for 3 spot Vegas during indoor season.

Even with a bare shaft (BS) it can be hard to read slight paper tears. If you shot them to a bullethole at 15', perhaps they would not show a bullethole at a farther distance, thus why you are not seeing fixed broadheads (FBH) and field points (FP) hitting together just yet.

I BS tune slightly different. I shoot a BS and a fletched FP at the same spot on a target rather than through paper. I start at 10 yards and adjust until they're hitting the same spot and BS is hitting at the same angle as FP.
But that is not where I stop, I then move to 20 yards and do it again and always have to make some more adjustments. Think about that, you got a bullethole at 15' but then stopped, perhaps farther would've shown some more adjustment being needed. That is likely why you're still not seeing FBH and FP hit together. Shooting through paper is simply a snapshot at one single distance.

After I have BS tuned to 20 yards, I almost always see FBH also hit the same spot at 20 yards. But then I switch to shooting a FBH and a FP at 40 yards. Often I will have to make another very slight adjustment to get them together at that distance.

For a hunting bow, I want FBH and FP's to hit the same spot. I have no idea, after I tune the bow so they'll do that, if they would make a bullethole paper tear. And I wouldn't care if they didn't (within reason).


I'd be curious just how different you're seeing FBH and FP hit at 20 yards. With a 15' BS tune, I'd think they're not that far off from each other. Unless cam synch is off, that can really make them show an elevation distance from each other.

Best of luck this hunting season.