How to take recoil pad off of new Stocky’s VG

[EastHumboldt]

Just got a new VG stock for my Tikka T3, and I want to remove the thinner recoil pad that comes with it, and install the thicker air soft limbsaver that I had on the factory stock. I’ve already shot the rifle with the new stock and I love it except the LOP feels a little short. Looking for both longer LOP and a little more recoil mitigation.

I took the screws out, but the Stocky’s pad is really stuck on there. I tried tapping it with a screwdriver blade on one end, but no luck. Are they glued on there? Does anyone have tips for getting it off cleanly without damaging my brand new stock?

Edit: I was nervous, but I just manned up and went after it with a razor knife. One of those cheap plastic ones with a 7/8” blade that extends about 4”. I carefully scored where the plastic plate meets the stock, and then started working the knife in between the stock and the plastic plate. In about 5 minutes I cut through the glue and it came off nice and clean.

Installed the 1” thick classic air soft limbsaver that I had on my factory Tikka stock. It’s a little small and kind of looks like crap. I’ll shoot it a bit to ensure that I like it on this stock and then order a grind to fit one from limbsaver.

Anybody done the grind to fit? I’m concerned about how it will look in the ground off areas. I plan to use my 4x36 stationary belt sander with an 80 grit belt.

Again, any tips?

 

[EastHumboldt]

I’m concerned that after spending $45 to get the grind to fit pad, and the time to properly fit it, that the grind job may be uglier than the slightly small pad.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Bit of time in the freezer helps keep it from oozing around while grinding

I’m concerned that the grind job may be uglier than the slightly small pad.

Good chance that you are right

 

[EastHumboldt]

Thanks Steve. I hadn’t thought about freezing it.

I asked Stocky’s about it and they said limbsaver doesn’t make a 1” thick classic pad that fits, and they recommended the grind to fit. I guess I could look through their templates and see if they have a stock pad that’s closer than the grind to fit. Anybody have thoughts on that?

 

[BCsteve]

I’ve done a couple Limbsaver grind to fit. A bench belt sander works great. Just take your time and wrap your stock in a couple layers of masking tape to warm you when you’re getting close. I’ll see if I can get a better pic when I get home.

 

[Matt5266]

I was in a similar boat after trying my factory limbsaver pad from the factory onto my VG. I was worried since it fit off that I would start chipping pieces of the stock on the rear that were exposed. Mine is for a 223 so wasn't worried about recoil but I wanted a little more LOP here's a link to what I did.

Thread 'Stockys Tikka VG homemade LOP'

Saturday at 8:46 PM

I decided to just make my own. Here is the process which was pretty simple. Ordered 1/2" thick polyethylene sheet off amazon for $6.99
I pulled my limbsaver pad off and just traced it with a sharp pick for the outline. I used a jigsaw to cut it which got me very close to the point I was able to hand sand it down. I marked and drilled the holes to line up with the pad holes. Found some 1/2" longer screws I had to use. Hit it with some clear coat on the sides to hide some fine lines. Overall turned out alright if you need a little longer LOP. I had everything except the polyethylene so only...

• Matt5266
• Replies: 1
• Forum: DIY Gear Modifications

 

[Liftman101]

Get a Backstop pad from Backfire. They have a design for the Rokstok and Stockys hunter. They are lightweight and work very well. Each one is designed to be caliber specific but works for a range of calibers.

 

[EastHumboldt]

Get a Backstop pad from Backfire. They have a design for the Rokstok and Stockys hunter. They are lightweight and work very well. Each one is designed to be caliber specific but works for a range of calibers.

Have you used both the backstop and the 1” limbsaver? If so how do they compare in felt recoil reduction IYO?

 

[Macintosh]

Grind to fit will look not just “fine” but better in many cases, IF you have the tools and take your time. A power sander with a table is a must. Use new, sharp paper. Mask the stock as mentioned above, and replace the masking as needed so it remains protective. When you get close, drop down to finer paper, 150grit or so, or even finer sometimes depending on the material—the sorbothane pads (kickeez and decelerator, maybe also limbsaver) as well as the foam cervalletti pads benefit from finer grit and freezing. If you want you can finish to almost a polish by hand, on or off the stock, with finer grit wet/dry paper on a block, just be careful not to sand below your mark.
If your’e worried its a 101-level, <$100 job for any gunsmith.