how snug should action be in a wood stock?

[Panhandler80]

I recently had my my action and barel cerakoted, and I'm almost done refinishing what I believe is a walnut stock. Some of the topcoat I've been using (Birchwood and Casey "Tru Oil" has gotten onto the the interior of stock where the action sits. Obviously the cerakote added an extremely tiny amount of bulk, but I would imagine an amount virtually negligible.

I went to drop the action and barrel into the stock the other and it took quite a bit of pretty sure to get it to seat. What is the goal for a set up like this? I'm sure you don't want it to just fall into place and be super loose, but I feel like I had to try a little to hard to get it to seat.

About what should I be looking for? I didn't think to take note of how easily (or difficult) it came out when I removed it.

Thanks,

PH80

 

[WeiserBucks]

If it actually fits right, hard in and hard out.

 

[Panhandler80]

If it actually fits right, hard in and hard out.

10-4. It’s pretty tight in and out. I’ll leave it as is and then just check barrel for free float. Thanks.

 

[Panhandler80]

Spoke with Browning today and they confirmed that tight is okay, obviously as long as barrel is still floating. They also said 35 inch pounds action screws into wood stock... which is what I was thinking.

Speaking of action screws... what's the consensus on blue loctite? I was thinking:

1. Blue loctite on action screws set to maybe 32 inch pounds, as it'll lubricate them a little.

2. Blue loctite on scope ring bases into receiver; torqued correctly.

3. No loctite on top half of DNZ rings (four screws per ring.... 2 left, 2 right... for a total of 8 screws.

Thanks,

PH80

 

[Macintosh]

Seal the inside of the wood with finish thoroughly, anywhere that isnt bedded. That will help to prevent moisture from getting in there and swelling the wood. Most factory wood stocks have a crappy seal internally so you may need to sand out a little space in the barrel channel, mag well, etc for this. I usually thin the finish a lot and let it really soak in for several coats to get a good seal.
Beyond that, the mating surfaces should fit like the wood grew around the metal with zero gap. Consider bedding it. And then anywhere else should not touch the metal to ensure it doesnt affect accuracy, and to ensure recoil doesnt damage the wood.

 

[Mojave]

I usually gut the inside of wood and laminate stocks and build a chassis out of devcon epoxy.

It can still be pretty and functional.

 

[buffybr]

Ideally you want a perfect and tight fit between the rifle's aciton and your stock ... wood, plastic, or whatever, and have the barrel free floating.

I have glass or glass and pillar bedded the actions of all of my rifles in their stocks.

I put a dab of clear fingernail polish on the threads of all of the scope mounting screws, but nothing on the action screws, I just torque them at 35 inch-pounds. You want to be able to remove the barrel and action from the stock for cleaning.

 

[SDHNTR]

Get you a dremel and hog out material until the barreled action is nice and sloppy in the stock. Lots of slop. Then clean out all debris and sawdust. Plop and spread in some Marine Tex, wax up your barreled action and drop in in there. Let set overnight and pop it out. Now it will fit the way it should!

 

[Amos Keeto]

"Tru-Oil" should be absorbed by the wood and should not leave enough finish to make the stock tight.