How much is too much?

[WildBoose]

Going to mess with some new arrow components during the off season. Looking at halfserts, collars, etc... 100gr collar/insert system with 100gr broadhead too much? I've always kept it simple, but want something a little more "hammerish".
28in draw
70lbs

 

[jmez]

Keep it simple and buy heavier broadheads.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I would caution you against putting too much stock in the ultra-heavy "hits like a hammer" fad. I firmly believe that more animals are lost to poor shot placement (or complete miss) than to lack of penetration, and a lighter/faster arrow makes it easier to hit where you're aiming. Both extremes (light and heavy) have downsides; IMO a middle-of-the-road total arrow weight (450-500 gr) is the best choice for most bowhunters.

That said, I wouldn’t consider 200 gr of insert + head weight to be extreme. That amount of front end weight on an 8-10 gpi shaft could put you in the 450-500 gr TAW range. Shaft diameter will dictate what insert/outsert/half-out options are available to you. Since you mentioned collars, I assume you're planning to use either a 5mm/.204" or 4mm/.166" shaft. If so, a hidden insert (HIT) would be my recommendation. Easton, Ethics, and Iron Will make HIT's in a variety of weights.

 

[timmymac24]

and sharp broadheads

 

[nphunter]

I also wouldn't focus on a super heavy arrow. I do like up-front weight since that is where it matters. I'm shooting RIP TKO's with 100gr SS HITs, 25gr Collars, and 100gr heads and my TAW is 500gr. I've had great luck with this setup and they work terrific for me, fly well, are durable, and last forever. I wanted the extra weight up front because I'm shooting 100gr expandable heads though, if I was shooting fixed heads I would probably drop some weight and gain some trajectory back due to their superior penetration. I shoot expandables for the large blood trails and me being color blind, my life has been much less stressful since switching.

 

[Buffalo0922]

I’m a 30.5 draw pulling 75lbs. I went with the heavy setup last year (574gr). Wasn’t accurate beyond 50yds. I dropped down to 464gr this year and am much happier, can group well out to 70-80. Like MightyMouse said, faster arrow means greater room for error.

 

[norcal7.3]

Im shooting a 530gr total arrow weight, using black eagle carnivore's. I used their brass insert system with and extra 50gr I believe, tipped with a 100 gr broad head. I haven't had any issues with durability of this arrow either, considering there is no outsert or anything. This was a simple set up in my opinion to get into that heavier arrow category.

 

[Billy Goat]

It's going to come down to how you hunt. The closer you plan to shoot, the less critical the trajectory is.


I ran numbers today on a 580 gr shaft that left the bow at 247 fps. At 65 yards it's dropping 3.9" per yard. So if say animal moves a few steps, and is now 67.5, or 62.5 yards, that's almost 10" high or low.

Now, if you don't intend to shoot that far, it's not a big deal. It will quiet that bow down, and retain energy well. But if you hunt in a situation where you are ranging trees, hoping it will be close to that tree, a little more speed can help.

I don't think it's a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and how you hunt. I frequently don't range the animal, I don't push my luck with movement so I'm going to be drawing my bow instead of picking up my rangefinder, not always, but that's how it is a lot of times. And I will usually have an idea of how far it is from previously ranging things where I hope the animal will be.


I generally stay away from halfouts, or any outserts. They seem to bend a lot easier. A collar that is just slipping over the front of the shaft is fine, but anything that extends out past tge end of the carbon just puts more leverage on that junction.

 

[N2TRKYS]

Whether or not it’s too much weight will depend on the spine of your arrow. I have no desire to ever use collars or outserts. I did a good bit of testing a couple summers ago and found that changing my arrow weight by as little as 50 grains to greatly affect my trajectory. I found that an arrow in the 430 grain range gave me the balance of speed and trajectory that I was looking for.

 

[vic821]

I really like the black eagle focus

Going to mess with some new arrow components during the off season. Looking at halfserts, collars, etc... 100gr collar/insert system with 100gr broadhead too much? I've always kept it simple, but want something a little more "hammerish".
28in draw
70lbs

i really like the black eagle focos system you can put the stainless steel collar on it for extra weight but really just a heavier broadhead and that’ll do.

 

[MattB]

If you want something hammerish, shoot a gun.

Spend your time practicing with what you have (which is undoubtedly fully adequate) rather than thinking you can buy/assemble success. Arrow "builds" seem cool on the internet, but no one I know who actually kills stuff when they hunt actually messes with that stuff.

 

[peterk123]

I just went from 400 grains to 468. Better penetration into a block with my fixed blade. I think the flight is more stable. I swear it tuned easier. Probably in my head though. Little more gap between pins, so easier to see the target. All good.

 

[GatorGar247]

I've done it all . Like the other guys 450 to 500 is best for me. I actually set my bow up to shoot 285 + fps . That's a 460 grain arrow with my current bow..
I don’t like hit inserts. I've had several arrows start to wobble after shooting a bag target for awhile. I've also had several push out the side of my arrow. I'm not much on the expensive slip on collars either. They will peel back if the hit breaks loose. I keep it simple. Gold tip stainless trad insert that's 72 grains for a 5 mm arrow.. I guess you could call it an outsert but it only sticks out a quarter inch past the carbon..

I spend my money on durable shafts. I really don't want to spend 30 bucks an arrow on components

 

[Zac]

I just went from 400 grains to 468. Better penetration into a block with my fixed blade. I think the flight is more stable. I swear it tuned easier. Probably in my head though. Little more gap between pins, so easier to see the target. All good.

Slower is always easier to tune.

 

[5 shot group]

75g insert
25g collar
100g head

My arrows are right at 500g total. Fps is about 288. These fly real well and are easy to tune for me. Pass through on deer like nothing was there, haven't tried it on an elk yet though

 

[Shoreguy]

When I made my new arrows I put a 75grain insert and used a 100 grain broadhead. I think if I had to do it again I would use a heaver broadhead to get better thicker steel that adding an insert to just add weight.

 

[CentennialState]

You guys who are a little more versed in arrow builds, would appreciate your insight-

I shoot a Mathews vxr 31.5 at 29.5” and 70 lbs
Arrows are Easton axis 5mm at 30”
Arrow is 10.7 gpi, so 321 g

I currently have a 50g insert inside, and 18g of fletching and then then the question…

With a regular nock and 100g head I’m at at 494g and 11.6% FOC

With a regular nock and 125g head I’m at 519g and 13.3% FOC

With a lighted nock and 125g head I’m at 534g and 11.5% FOC and finally with a lighted nock and 100g head I’m at 506g and 10.1% FOC.

I’ve shot all the combos listed and don’t see any appreciable variance in accuracy up to 60 yards. And I very strongly prefer a lighted knock. So the question is, in regards to the most optimal arrow for elk, is there any significant difference between 534g at 11.5% FOC and 519g at 13.3% FOC? Can I keep my lighted nock?

Thanks in advance

 

[DB29]

Keep the lighted nock if you like it. The difference in FOC is negligible. With the increased weight you get more momentum but the trade off is of course speed.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

So the question is, in regards to the most optimal arrow for elk, is there any significant difference between 534g at 11.5% FOC and 519g at 13.3% FOC? Can I keep my lighted nock?

No appreciable difference between those two arrows. If you want to use a lighted nock, go for it.

 

[CentennialState]

No appreciable difference between those two arrows. If you want to use a lighted nock, go for it.

Thank you!