How do I refurbish(?) the edge on a hard steel knife

[timberland]

I have two old Buck 110 knives that i've sharpened with a stone and/or steel over the years. The blade is fairly thick and right on the curve of the blade, I struggle to get a keen edge. the base of the edge and the tip I can sharpen, but the bend it seem I have to remove a bunch of metal to get a thinner, cleaner edge.

i've though about an electric sharpener, but am worried about the temper. Am I on the right track? any suggestions?

 

[mmac]

I have a work sharp and a couple stones. I can't say enough about how well the work sharp electric sharpeners work. Start of slow or a knife to practice with, but once you get comfortable easy, fast and hair shaving sharp.

 

[ElkChaser338]

I have a work sharp and a couple stones. I can't say enough about how well the work sharp electric sharpeners work. Start of slow or a knife to practice with, but once you get comfortable easy, fast and hair shaving sharp.

+ 1 on the Work Sharp. I have several nice stones I like to use but purchased the Work Sharp Ken Onion last year. The Work Sharp is fast and easy and puts a wonderful edge on a knife. It has been a great investment.

 

[Hondo]

I would get a Work-Sharp Original or Ken Onion and practice on some beater knives as there is a bit of a learning curve to it. I have 2 belt sanders, a paper wheel setup and a cabinet full of water stones and strops in my shop and I tend to use the Work Sharp more than any of them.

 

[insanelupus]

Why not send it back to Buck and ask them to refurbish it, sharpen, buff, etc? I did it last year with a couple of heirloom Buck fixed blades with great results.

 

[swampthing]

Take a fine flat file n bust the shoulder down a bit. A knife needs this a few times during its life

 

[ElkNut1]

KME Knife Sharpener, it's the best I've used to date!

ElkNut

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Kme for me as well.

 

[elkliver]

The main thing is learning how to maintain the same angle bevel on the curve of your knife. The problem with electric sharpeners is they tend to grind off the points. to sharpen correctly you need move the handle to maintain that angle. if you watch a video of a professional knife sharpener.

Start with a flat wetstone and go slow and watch what the blade is doing in comparison to the stone as you sharpen the length of the blade,. when you get to the curve, if you dont move the handle and change the sharpening direction, you will mess up the bevel

 

[Rich M]

I use a chefs choice electric diamond sharpener on my 110. 1-2-3 passes on coarse, 1 quick pass on fine and it's good for a couple deer. Use it on my dexter Russell knives too.

No issues w temper. Pull it thru, alternate sides, don't forget to lift up to address curve and point. May take a little bit to get the angle set along the entire blade. After that, touch up is 1 or 2 pulls. 3 when is you were cutting something other than meat and hide. Those bucks are excellent for holding an edge.

Pull thru carbide sharpeners work too but shave a lot of metal. I use these on cheap fillet knives.

If I use a stone, oil or spit, then pretend I'm trying to slice a thin piece off. 1 fluid motion, turn over cut back. Do that at the correct angle and it's quick. Medium diamond or coarse soft stone.

Use whatever makes you happy.

 

[Marble]

My go to for 30 years is a spyderco sharpener. You can sharpen darn near anything with it. It has 30 and 40 degree angles, fine and corse stones.

I've only had one knife I couldn't get shaving sharp and it was a buck knife. It would get sharp and loose the edge immediately.

The electric sharpeners have two issues. First is heat the second is the inexperienced will end up sharpening too much in one spot. Ruining the edge. But they also work really well. If someone can keep their knife cool while sharpening and smoothly apply a proper edge, they are awesome.



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Beendare]

Reprofiling is the term you are looking for.

The worksharps work.....but take off a lot of material if you arent careful.

If its a good knife, I prefer the jig systems; Lansky,Gatco, Wicked Sharp....and my personal favorite; the Edge Pro.
These hold a consistent angle....but some dont hold the knife steady....the Edge Pro does.

To reprofile, you lock in the bevel angle you want, and start stroping with progressively finer stones.
With some of the super steels, you will need very hard stones or diamonds....for example, the carbides in my S90V knives are harder than some stones And they wont sharpen those knives.

——

 

[*zap*]

Vise and file.

 

[Kobuk]

Why not send it back to Buck and ask them to refurbish it, sharpen, buff, etc? I did it last year with a couple of heirloom Buck fixed blades with great results.

If the blade is as bad as it sounds then I would do ^^^ this first. It is a free service other than a little freight. Then you won't have to try and come up with a repair or reprofile until you get a little more efficient sharpening. I own way more sharpeners than I care to admit and I do use different ones for different situations. If I only was going to use one it would be my Edge Pro Apex. Sharpen any knife and is very easy compared to hand sharpening which isn't for everyone.