Best Steel for Butchering Knife

treillw

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I've have a few different knives (Victorinox & browning) that I'm currently using to process elk and a great way to make them shaving sharp. After a few hours of trimming silver skin and trying to cut on the cutting board as little as possible, the knives are getting dull. I'm thinking about getting a new knife that would be better steel and hold an edge better.

What steel would stay sharp the longest in this application? At this stage of processing, there are no bones to hit and the worst thing I'll cut into is a cutting board. Recommendations for a manufacturer?

It's not the end of the world, but it's just a pain to stop, wash the knife, go sharpen it, wash the knife, cut, repeat. I could go the bucket o' knives route also, but am intrigued by higher quality knives.

Thanks!
 

BBob

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Why not hit your knives regularly during the process with a sharpening steel to keep the edge like butchers and taxidermists do? This is what we do. I have a Kramer.

The Kramer by Zwilling.
 
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treillw

treillw

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Why not hit your knives regularly during the process with a sharpening steel to keep the edge like butchers and taxidermists do? This is what we do. I have a Kramer.

The Kramer by Zwilling.
I do have a sharpening steel. I feel like I will do more harm than good with it though and mess up the edge angle. It's so easy to throw the knife back on the Ken Onion Work Sharp with blade grinding attachment (what a mouthful) and have it shaving again in a couple passes of the finest belt. I can be pretty "exact" with the Work Sharp and don't feel I have the same precision with a steel.
 

Ucsdryder

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I ran 2 Victornix bonining knives and a leather strip with compound. After about 5 minutes I’d switch then after another 5 minutes 5 strokes on each side with the leather strop. They stayed shaving sharp. Key is to not let them get dull.
 
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treillw

treillw

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Agree. Keep them tuned up before they get so bad you have to regrind.
I'm not regrinding the entire edge. Essentially just tuning them up on the work sharp every few hours and they come right back. I'm doing about 5 passes per side.
 
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Why not hit your knives regularly during the process with a sharpening steel to keep the edge like butchers and taxidermists do? This is what we do. I have a Kramer.

The Kramer by Zwilling.
On of my friends owns on of the largest processors in TX. Uses that sharpener and 6 1/2 inch boning knife. F. Dick or Forshner

After trying to sharpen some high end steels, I get it. Much quicker
 
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I'm not regrinding the entire edge. Essentially just tuning them up on the work sharp every few hours and they come right back. I'm doing about 5 passes per side.
Maybe just increase the frequency of your touch ups with the fine grit belt. Cheaper than buying a new knife.

For butchering, a lot of folks prefer knives you can throw in the dishwasher when your done. If you're one of them, a new knife should have a high carbon stainless steel blade with rockwell hardness of 56 or more. The carbon content combined with the heat treat (hardness) provides the edge retention and stainless alloys make them dishwasher safe. If you don't mind hand-washing your knives, 1095 and 1084 high carbon blades will hold an absolute razor edge and are easy to sharpen. Just remember to hand wash and oil them periodically to prevent corrosion.
 

Ucsdryder

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Maybe just increase the frequency of your touch ups with the fine grit belt. Cheaper than buying a new knife.

For butchering, a lot of folks prefer knives you can throw in the dishwasher when your done. If you're one of them, a new knife should have a high carbon stainless steel blade with rockwell hardness of 56 or more. The carbon content combined with the heat treat (hardness) provides the edge retention and stainless alloys make them dishwasher safe. If you don't mind hand-washing your knives, 1095 and 1084 high carbon blades will hold an absolute razor edge and are easy to sharpen. Just remember to hand wash and oil them periodically to prevent corrosion.
I agree with this. Watch a good butcher. It seems like he’s working his knife on the stick more than he’s cutting.
 
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harder steel is gonna be harder to sharpen. There is a reason that most chefs and butchers aren’t using diamond hard knives. they do use a steel to touch up knives on the regular. Work a bit on practicing with the steel. from what I gather the edge is rolling right or left more than dulling. A steel is best at straightening it out. FWIW I am still trying to fine tune that skill myself.

in the meantime, I added a few more voctoronix boning knives to my kit. Total of 4 in my truck kit plus some other knives. I swap them out and keep going.
 
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treillw

treillw

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You guys are totally shocking me - talking me out of buying something for once!

Humor me. What super steel would hold and edge the longest in this application?

I'm not concerned with difficulty in sharpening - the work sharp can handle it.
 

Shraggs

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If you like those knives, try a different angle on the blade attachment. Lots of folk reference the professional butcher stuff, but mass processing equates to affordable knives and frequent sharpening. I like those knives too, but edge retention is not in their dna.

Thin steel like that can easily be convexed at 30 degrees and still be shaving sharp unlike a thick knife steel. It will hold an edge much longer cutting thru muscle.

If you want a new knife, Most all your carbon steels will refine to very sharp- 1085, 1085, O1, A2 but for edge retention a2 is a relative standout. Touch ups can easily be done with a few strops instead the belt too.

As far as super steels I love s35vn and use a bark river kalahari sportsman. Great meat processing knife. That steel holds an edge very well, hard to sharpen of course initially but responds to black compound in leather strop for touch up very well and it dents and rolls with hard use cause it’s not brittle like many stainless.

Lawnbi posted a custom fillet knife a couple years ago that had a great shape for table processing too, but don’t recall the steel and couldn’t find the thread. Maybe he’ll see this.
 
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+1 for a texture-less honing (not sharpening) steel for touch ups. This is assuming you are starting out with a great edge. I have a Victorinox steel that I hit several times/hour and makes a noticeable difference. No need to sharpen a blade for a looong time if you are touching it up frequently and not hacking away on bone/granite/metal.
 

Michael54

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Get ahold of aaron waters on fb and buy a 5" boning knife and 8"breaking knive made by "Victory". Its still an easy blade to sharpen but holds its edge a hell of a lot better than a victorinox or f dick in my opinion. Upgrading to victory knives will make a noticeable difference but wont matter in the long run if you cant get proficient in using a steel. If you are sharpening with a ken onion its giving the blade a convex grind and short of you trying to steel at a 45 degree angle you should be fine.
 

schwaf

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I've been working as a butcher for this past year, and as a knife snob, I can honestly recommend Victory knives.

Victorinox knives are too soft, don't get very sharp, and don't hold an edge at all. I've worked with a few of them, and they just aren't worth using. I can barely get through a few cuts without rolling the edge or losing its cutting power.

I tried several knives in the first few months, and primarily use 3 knives now. The Benchmade Meatcrafter for general cutting and removing silver skin, a Dexter russell curved boning knife for any work around bones, and a 10" breaking knife from Victory to do any larger cuts. All of them have good, hard steel that hold an edge well, don't rust, don't chip, and I highly recommend them. I'll touch them up after a day with a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone and strop. If you need an aggressive, toothy edge to cut through thick tendons and ligaments, or more bite on the cut, use a grooved honing steel very gently and you will create micro serrations on the cutting edge (which will eventually fall off and change your edge geometry, so hit it with the ceramic and strop after use).


 
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Michael54

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I've been working as a butcher for this past year, and as a knife snob, I can honestly recommend Victory knives.

Victorinox knives are too soft, don't get very sharp, and don't hold an edge at all. I've worked with a few of them, and they just aren't worth using. I can barely get through a few cuts without rolling the edge or losing its cutting power.

I tried several knives in the first few months, and primarily use 3 knives now. The Benchmade Meatcrafter for general cutting and removing silver skin, a Dexter russell curved boning knife for any work around bones, and a 10" breaking knife from Victory to do any larger cuts. All of them have good, hard steel that hold an edge well, don't rust, don't chip, and I highly recommend them. I'll touch them up after a day with a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone and strop. If you need an aggressive, toothy edge to cut through thick tendons and ligaments, or more bite on the cut, use a grooved honing steel very gently and you will create micro serrations on the cutting edge (which will eventually fall off and change your edge geometry, so hit it with the ceramic and strop after use).


If you try a 5" victory boning you will see the 6" dexters dissapear from your scabbard. I know mine did lol.
 

schwaf

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If you try a 5" victory boning you will see the 6" dexters dissapear from your scabbard. I know mine did lol.
I have used Victory boning knives. Several of the butchers at our shop use them. I think they are good. That particular Dex knife, while it doesn't come with a good factory edge and kinda crap quality control, I like for very specific uses. It's thin, good flex, and has a nice blade geometry for working around bones and tight spaces. I think it complements the meatcrafter well. I like it enough to keep it in my scabbard, but if I had to downsize to one boning knife I probably would use a Victory.
 
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