Hoffman Boot Review/Giveaway - Tell us what you want.

[Yellowhammer]

8 inch boot
400 grams insulation
Waterproof
All leather with minimal piecing and unnecessary stitching. Good ankle support with stiff sole. Pretreated and sample of recommended treatment included. Attachment point for gaiters that doesn't wear laces. Quality laces and self cleaning tread.

 

[NebraskaStickHunter]

I am far from a boot expert but my thoughts are
1. 8”
2. Non insulated
3. Waterproof that stays waterproof with very minimal maintenance
4. Full rand, multiple lace locks like the European boots that I have, prefer a less stiff boot for everything except boulder hopping with I try to avoid, and a vibram sole that stays sticky when wet.
I know there is now what to make a boot be able to cover everyone and every style of hunter but I do like the boot I can where pheasant hunting, to the deer stand, and to the elk woods and know they won’t fail no matter how much or how hard I push them.

 

[RussGS]

My preferences:

1) 8" tall boot

2) Non-Insulated

3) Waterproof

4) Locking hardware between lower lace section and upper lace section, sufficient rigidity to handle 80-100 pound loads

Thanks

 

[Fonkie]

My preference:

1) 8” or 10” with a nice comfortable collar
2) non insulated or 200 gram
3) waterproof but breathable
4) roller eyelets & locking at the ankle
5) full rubber rand & grippy vibram sole semi stiff
6) quality insole

All for a sub $400 price tag

 

[SpotNStalker]

Really looking forward to trying these.

My essentials in a hunting boot.

1). 6" or 8" works for me. Good hardware, especially where you need to lock in ankles is essential to me for support and to prevent heel slip.

2) Non-insulated, but would also like a 10" with 200g for late season.

3) Waterproof- full rubber rand, minimal seams/materials, full leather upper to allow a quality grease, and a good membrane. I like the warranty of goretex for boots.

4) I like a durable sole, but need good traction on wet, muddy, or snowy rocks over durability. Traction over wear life. With that said a boot that can be re-soled would be great.

I'm curious what the warranty is on your hunting boots, and what the rebuild process is like. Are you rebuilding in Idaho or sending them back to the factory, or not available????

Additionally, spending several hundred bucks on a pair of boots and having to immediately replace a cheap insole is not ideal. From what I've seen your insole is very good. Obviously feet vary and it can't be one size fits all, but it looks to be of good quality and has good arch support.

Overall, the explorer appears to meet all of my requirements for a great hunting boot. Thanks for bringing your offerings to the market.

 

[IdahoHntr]

1) The boot height matters less to me than the overall fit of the boot, especially in the footbed. If everything else fits perfect I prefer an 8in boot with 10in boot a close second.

2) Always non-insulated for me. I haven't worn insulated boots for years and unless I'm ever on a late hunt where I am not moving I will probably never wear insulated boots again.

3) Has to be waterproof. Probably the most important of any of the features you asked about.

4) I like durable boots. Especially on a boot that I would be paying several hundred dollars for, I want to be able to get at LEAST 3-4 seasons of hard hunting in them before they need replacing. And even then the boot should need a new outsole, but the rest of the boot should hold together that long and longer. At the price point where most of your boots are I would need 5 seasons out of them or it just doesn't make financial sense to invest that much money in a boot.

 

[Muttly]

1. Boot height..I could live with 8" or 10", would prefer 10". More expensive to produce different heights, but ideally the option to pick a height like the pole climbers would be nice.
2. Non insulated would cover 90% for me.
3. Waterproof. Cause SE Alaska....
4. Prefer a stiff boot. Frankenstein stiff.
Running Hoffman 12" steel toe pole climbers unless it,s raining buckets 45-50° and up in SE Alaska, 5 days a week. Running Hoffman steel toe pacs if it,s cold out, winter time.
Weekends, trails, hunting Scarpa Grand Dru. They were a pretty good fit till I broke the little and middle toe on my left foot. Now the left boot seems a little tight in the toes. Don't have that problem with the pole climbers.
Donald Duck feet, wide across the toes, sorta narrow ankles. Wear a 14 in the Scarpa, no extra toe wiggle room, the pole climbers are a 13, steel toe, with plenty of wiggle room in the toes.
A likely unrealistic wish, a little bit of resilience, in the heel.

 

[Pezboat]

1) 6”
2) non-insulated
3) waterproof
4) traction is important to me. I like a sole that won’t slip on wet rocks, mud, etc.

 

[threethirtyeight]

1. 8"
2. 600g
3. Waterproof....not waterproof for a little while but for the life of the rest of the boot.
4. Sized to at least 15. Maybe a wire type ratching lace system that can be easily changed out with a regular lacing system. Removable Carbide studs.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[HuntHarder]

In a hunting boot, I would love an 8" boot, waterproof, 200-400 gram insulated and have some type of nice moldable insoles. It seems like almost every boot I buy I have to then buy a set of insoles that I can throw in the oven and mold them to my feet. High quality laces are a must. Thanks for letting us all in on this contest.

 

[.204smokechaser]

1) 8"

2) Uninsulated

3) Definitely waterproof

4) The top of the foot feels cold when the outside of the boot is wet. I don't know if there's a way to add more material to the top there to not feel that. Also, the uninsulated boot feels warm to me. I have to wear a thin sock or else my feet will sweat all day long. Make the boot more breathable somehow?

I enjoy having the explorers. It's great actually having an awesome hunting/hiking boot and something that feels good to wear. I'd buy a pair of explorer style boots in a heart beat if they were approved for wildland fire. I know I'm in the market for another pair of corks and will keep you guys in mind. Your customer service is fantastic.

 

[kickemall]

1) 10” - to easy to get wet on small creek crossings or just walking in wet grass with anything shorter.
2) Both insulated and non insulated but make the insulated 400 so there’s enough spread between the two.
3) Waterproof of course.
4) Now here’s the biggie - make an eyelet to lock the laces like on Solomon Quests. That allows different lace tightness (and a better heel lock) without fooling with different lacing techniques. Make sure the toe box is wide enough and PLEASE put a rand on it that lasts as long as the boot! If you can figure out a heel box that doesn’t allow any heel slip in a stiff boot, no matter whose foot you stuff in there, then your Gods in my book.
Thanks for actually giving a $hit enough to ask.

 

[Werty]

I prefer
6" boot
Uninsulated
Waterproofing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like a little stiffer boot, I tend to get more years out of them. I like an aggressive tread. As light as possible, yet giving me everything I need in a quality boot.

 

[Ebby]

8"
Waterproof
Full Rand
200/400g equivalent insulation
Medium stiffness, enough to climb with but comfortable enough on flatter ground that they don't beat you up

 

[6mm Remington]

1. Height. 10"

2. Uninsulated & a pair with 200 gram's of insulation

3. Waterproof

4. Good heavy duty leather. Excellent laces and lacing system. Great soles such as the Montana Claw that is one you can get on a pair of Whites Outdoorsman boots. Best soles I have ever used in all conditions for traction. I have the Whites boots and love them! They are air-bob soles with excellent lugs on the outside.

Thanks for the chance to win. You folks make an outstanding leather & rubber winter pack boot! Whites used to also make a superb pack boot but it's not quite what it used to be any longer. Yours is much better. I also like the Schnee's pack boot. Good product.

 

[HoffmanBoots]

Really looking forward to trying these.

My essentials in a hunting boot.

1). 6" or 8" works for me. Good hardware, especially where you need to lock in ankles is essential to me for support and to prevent heel slip.

2) Non-insulated, but would also like a 10" with 200g for late season.

3) Waterproof- full rubber rand, minimal seams/materials, full leather upper to allow a quality grease, and a good membrane. I like the warranty of goretex for boots. Similair to Sympatec

4) I like a durable sole, but need good traction on wet, muddy, or snowy rocks over durability. Traction over wear life. With that said a boot that can be re-soled would be great. Our sole meets this requirement

I'm curious what the warranty is on your hunting boots, and what the rebuild process is like. Are you rebuilding in Idaho or sending them back to the factory, or not available???? Basically we go off wear on the boot -if something happens that shouldn't, we warranty it. I don't like time frames for warranties. We can re-sole our boots.

Additionally, spending several hundred bucks on a pair of boots and having to immediately replace a cheap insole is not ideal. From what I've seen your insole is very good. Obviously feet vary and it can't be one size fits all, but it looks to be of good quality and has good arch support. We did go out and get an insole made for these boots

Overall, the explorer appears to meet all of my requirements for a great hunting boot. Thanks for bringing your offerings to the market. Thank you for your input.

 

[Blackhawk45hunter]

8” height
Non-insulated
Waterproof
Medium stiffness sole and tread that’s somewhere between everyday shoes and aggressive boot treat.

I hunt in a lot of wet clay, and aggressive tread only picks up clay and wears you out faster.
I’m actually in need of a good non insulated boot before my next elk hunt. I took my Rockies out to Idaho for a backpack spring bear hunt and was sweating to death, even with the temps floating around 40*.

 

[BRTreedogs]

8 and 10"
Waterproof
Non insulated.
Rand, heal brake, grippy tread, flex point inline w ankle. Narrow deep heal pocket.

 

[mitchellbk]

1) 10”

2) Non-Insulated

3) Waterproof

4) Some sort of arch built into the boot that forms to your arch over a break in period. Similar to the White's Arch-Ease last

 

[Stikine]

1) 10” - to easy to get wet on small creek crossings or just walking in wet grass with anything shorter.
2) Both insulated and non insulated but make the insulated 400 so there’s enough spread between the two.
3) Waterproof of course.
4) Now here’s the biggie - make an eyelet to lock the laces like on Solomon Quests. That allows different lace tightness (and a better heel lock) without fooling with different lacing techniques. Make sure the toe box is wide enough and PLEASE put a rand on it that lasts as long as the boot! If you can figure out a heel box that doesn’t allow any heel slip in a stiff boot, no matter whose foot you stuff in there, then your Gods in my book.
Thanks for actually giving a $hit enough to ask.

this sums it up quite well!