High Mileage Vehicle's

[amack26]

This year I ran into a dilemma. I currently drive a 2002 Chevy Suburban that I bought 3 years ago. It had 160,000 miles on it when I bought it. Through a series of events it has proven to be unreliable. It has been an awesome car but when I went out scouting in september for a late season AZ Elk hunt. I couldn't make it an hour away from home and the car overheated. It works enough to get me to work and back but my hunting this year has been put on the back burner until I can get a new car. I don't have a ton of disposable income being that I live in southern CA. A friend is selling their 2010 suburban with 191k miles on it. The car has been cared for and the guy who owns it builds cars. I have an appointment tomorrow to get the car looked at by my mechanic to see if its even worth buying. It has 4x4 a 3in lift, offroad tires, and everything seems to be in pretty good condition. I have heard people say don't touch a high mileage vehicle other have very successfully bought and kept for 10+ years. What say you?

 

[WannabeHunter]

I wouldn't buy a domestic vehicle with over 100,000 miles unless I was getting a steal and didn't need to drive it further than a few miles. Dodge, Ford, Chevy... all have known issues over 130-150K miles. Sure there are stories of the truck that lasts forever, but the vast majority will require expensive repairs.

I'd only touch a Toyota (or honda car) with over 100,000 miles. And of course I'd do my due diligence inspecting those as well. They just simply have better track records over the long haul.

That's my personal opinion, so I'm sure the next guy will say that he only ever buys Fords and runs them 300k with only oil changes.

 

[backcountry_hunter]

This year I ran into a dilemma. I currently drive a 2002 Chevy Suburban that I bought 3 years ago. It had 160,000 miles on it when I bought it. Through a series of events it has proven to be unreliable. It has been an awesome car but when I went out scouting in september for a late season AZ Elk hunt. I couldn't make it an hour away from home and the car overheated. It works enough to get me to work and back but my hunting this year has been put on the back burner until I can get a new car. I don't have a ton of disposable income being that I live in southern CA. A friend is selling their 2010 suburban with 191k miles on it. The car has been cared for and the guy who owns it builds cars. I have an appointment tomorrow to get the car looked at by my mechanic to see if its even worth buying. It has 4x4 a 3in lift, offroad tires, and everything seems to be in pretty good condition. I have heard people say don't touch a high mileage vehicle other have very successfully bought and kept for 10+ years. What say you?

If it were a 6.0 3/4 ton suburban I'd consider it for the right price but a 5.3 paired with a lift and oversized tires would be a hard pass for me. My .02$

 

[Marble]

I would only have a high mileage vehicle if I had the funds to repair it if necessary and I had a 2nd vehicle as a back up.

For the diesel trucks I'm not concerned with them until 200k. And even then its usually not catastrophic. If you have a good service guy, he will know which vehicles have problems at what mileage and then try to head off issues by catching them prior to utter failure.

 

[Deplorable77]

+1 with what wannabehunter wrote and I'd like to add that I would not buy any used lifted vehicle with oversized tires. It's hard on the entire drivetrain and replacing drivetrains/ oversized wheels/tires is going to get expensive really fast.
I'm in socal also and your going to have very limited choices finding a decent used truck for a fair price. Without turning this into a political discussion I'll say that most the trucks your looking for end up over the border because they sell for 50% more down that way.
Would you mind sharing what your anticipated budget is?

 

[WannabeHunter]

I'll clarify, my original comment was only toward "1500" trucks. I assumed the OP was referring to was also referring to 1/2 ton.

 

[Wrench]

I have 3 in my fleet over 270k that I take everywhere.

I have more faith in a high miles rig than a 2 year old phone.

 

[JG358]

I have move faith in high mileage vehicles that are old enough not to have variable displacement engines. Bad shit seems to happen after a 150K+ miles of switching between 4 and 8 cylinders.

 

[amack26]

Anticipated Immediate Budget 10K.I can get financing through my credit union but would really prefer to not deal with them. I don't mind repair costs (my dad works for a shop and we get a pretty steep discount. I just can't justify putting a new engine in a vehicle that needs everything else changed. When I say over sized tires I believe they are 33" tires on 17" alloy rims. The lift was added within the last 5000 miles.

 

[Missahba]

I wouldn’t go to a truck with higher miles than the one you have. Yours, or the 2010, can be good trucks for the money (compared to a new(er) one). But only if it’s been maintained and you have the money and knowledge to continue to maintain it. I don’t believe what applies to some foreign vs domestic reliability necessarily applies to full size trucks. The bigger you go, the better domestics are. Having been in the end-of-vehicle-life business, my opinion on longevity, including serviceability, TCO, etc, old GMC/Chev trucks are your best bet. Yes, things will wear out. But they’re manageable. And parts are plentiful and cheap. If you’re not a car guy so much, maybe find a newer mid-size SUV, unless you’re towing. If you Must have the tow capacity, is a less equipped pickup sufficient? I’ve owned three suburbans, an expedition, two explorers, a ridge line, 3 Chev and two ford PU’s, three jeeps, and an early bronco. If I had to choose the best value most reliable used 8 passenger 4x4 suv to tow with it would be an original low miles GMT400 series. 1996 to 2000, 350cid. Hard to find but they’re still out there.

 

[Smithb9841]

If your budget is 10K I wouldn’t settle for a suburban with 190K miles. Things wear out even if they are taken care of just my opinion. The only vehicle with that high mileage I’d consider would be a diesel.

 

[mitchellbk]

I have move faith in high mileage vehicles that are old enough not to have variable displacement engines. Bad shit seems to happen after a 150K+ miles of switching between 4 and 8 cylinders.

This.

I wasn't confident in the 07-14 generation engines so we bought an 03 with 100K miles to eventually replace our 01 burb with 300K miles (still going strong BTW)

Fix what you have and run it into the ground.

 

[WannabeHunter]

Fix what you have and run it into the ground.

I do agree with this wholeheartedly.

 

[black dawg]

What was the "series of events"?

 

[Anozira]

What mitchellbk said. The newer engines have more problems with the variable displacement than the older LS motors. Unless you drove the thing into a melting blob and blew the head gaskets I would rather replace the radiator/ water pump/ thermostat or whatever failed before I bought one of the newer trucks with 191K.

I would fix your current rig, and keep driving it while you save for something better. Just my .02.

 

[amack26]

I had my oil pan gasket changed, something wasn't put back together properly. Oil pressure was dropping when the car was at idle to 3psi and went back up to normal operating range. the engine was not overheating but it sounded terrible. The shop said it was fine. I drove it for another 2 months and took the car back insisting something was wrong. They tested the oil and there were metal shavings in the oil. So they told me I needed to get a new engine. When I asked what the cost would be they told me to look online for an engine and they would put it in. I took it to the shop my dad works at (he is a transporter, not a mechanic) and they confirmed the need for a new engine. @black dawg

 

[amack26]

Unfortunately diesel is out of the question until we move out of CA Regular Unleaded is at $4+/gallon diesel is almost $5/gallon

 

[black dawg]

If the 02 is in pretty good shape, I would find a used engine for it, and have a different mechanic put it in. If it is rough, find another pre 07 burb.....they are getting pretty cheap.

 

[Anozira]

Did it have low oil pressure prior to this or do you know if they messed with the oil pick up tube to your knowlege? Those year motors were plagued by bad oil pick up tube o-rings and issues with the oil pump pressure relief sticking.

File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 02-06-01-038
Date: December, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace 0-Ring)

Models:
2001-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
2001-2002 Pontiac Firebird
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2003 GMC Sierra
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ9, LQ4)

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine tick noise. The distinguishing characteristic of this condition is that it likely will have been present since new, and is typically noticed within the first 161-322 km (100-200 mi). The noise may often be diagnosed as a collapsed lifter. Additionally, the noise may be present at cold start and appear to diminish and then return as the engine warms to operating temperature. This noise is different from other noises that may begin to occur at 3219-4828 km (2000-3000 mi).
Cause
The 0-ring seal between the oil pump screen and the oil pump may be cut, causing aeration of the oil.
Correction
Inspect the 0-ring seal and replace as necessary. Use the applicable part number listed below. Refer to the Engine Mechanical sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Updated parts.

 

[WannabeHunter]

I had my oil pan gasket changed, something wasn't put back together properly. Oil pressure was dropping when the car was at idle to 3psi and went back up to normal operating range. the engine was not overheating but it sounded terrible. The shop said it was fine. I drove it for another 2 months and took the car back insisting something was wrong. They tested the oil and there were metal shavings in the oil. So they told me I needed to get a new engine. When I asked what the cost would be they told me to look online for an engine and they would put it in. I took it to the shop my dad works at (he is a transporter, not a mechanic) and they confirmed the need for a new engine. @black dawg

Now that's interesting. The shop that changed the gasket is the same shop that says it's fine for months then says you need a new motor....

Low oil pressure at idle can be several things but I find it's normally too little oil or your oil pump is going out. I was also going to mention what Anozira mentioned. If the oil pressure wasn't present before the gasket change then you may have been had. Regardless, I'd never go to that shop ever again.