Help me select a "long range" 6.5 Creedmoor and glass

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EmperorMA

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Sako makes the Model 85 Hunter in 6.5 CM with a 24.5" barrel.

What do you mean by "higher quality"? What is your current "cheap rifle".
Winchester XPR. It shoots great, the stock is about as good a you can get in a $400 rifle and the bolt and action are smooth as silk. Not picky about ammo or bullet weights, either. It is just a standard, inexpensive rifle that happens to be one of the better options out there at its price point.

There are hardly any options for upgrading the rifle, though. And I wouldn't probably do much since the barrel is excellent and the trigger is quite nice once lightened as far as it would go. But it is still just a very basic hunting rifle with a 22' barrel. I'd love another 6.5 Creedmoor set up a bit more for long range practice and hunting and different enough that I have a clear idea when the XPR or the new rifle is the correct one to take from the safe.
 
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Easy there. I just want another rifle that is different enough from a current one that I will have a clear idea of which to use for specific situations. You know, set up for longer range ... maybe an adjustable stock (or a better stock, at least), longer barrel, rail system, bipod, stout rings, bigger scope.

I hate brakes, too. However, I have a very heavily-repaired shoulder and disc issues in my neck that require me to shoot rifles that have low recoil. Even an unbraked .308 Win is more than I should be shooting.
These specs just scream a Tikka in a KRG or XLR, a suppressor (or brake for the Neanderthals among us) and a pile of ammo.

Why are you so against Tikkas again?
 
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EmperorMA

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These specs just scream a Tikka in a KRG or XLR, a suppressor (or brake for the Neanderthals among us) and a pile of ammo.

Why are you so against Tikkas again?
They just require too much work to make one how I might like it. And, truth be told, I still wouldn't like it because the action is too long. The stock designs kick me like a mule, and recoil is a primary concern for me. I want this rifle to be as "plug & play" as possible.

It is kind of like trucks. I do not like Chevy/GMC or Nissan trucks. They don't suit me and I won't even look at them when it is time to shop for a new rig.

I am OK with Ram trucks and will at least look at them, but have never liked one well enough to buy it.

I love Ford and Toyota trucks, though. Every one I have ever bought has been one of those two. They just suit me.
 

Lawnboi

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They just require too much work to make one how I might like it. And, truth be told, I still wouldn't like it because the action is too long. The stock designs kick me like a mule, and recoil is a primary concern for me. I want this rifle to be as "plug & play" as possible.

It is kind of like trucks. I do not like Chevy/GMC or Nissan trucks. They don't suit me and I won't even look at them when it is time to shop for a new rig.

I am OK with Ram trucks and will at least look at them, but have never liked one well enough to buy it.

I love Ford and Toyota trucks, though. Every one I have ever bought has been one of those two. They just suit me.
If that’s the case I’d buy whatever barreled action trips your trigger and put it in a chassis of some form. Rifle fit matters and I wish someone had pushed me to one earlier versus making yourself fit the rifle.

If your weight goal goes up there’s a lot more possibilities. Personally think a 10 pound all up gun is pretty light weight. Without a brake or suppressor spotting shots becomes more of a chore at under 10 pounds.

Iv got or have shot a gamut of rifles in the cartridge from 8lb all up carbon barreled tikka to a 20lb Match rifle. I think as a learning gun for mainly longer shooting I think that 12-14 pound range would be about perfect in that cartridge.
 

Macintosh

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that^^. people are trying to respond with what their idea of a rifle set up for longer range looks like within your parameters, but you have some criteria that make it hard to come up with much that will improve on what you already have. People like tikkas becasue they are generally reliable, smooth, pretty darn accurate and have a great trigger out of the box--but even tikkas arent all great guns, everyone kicks out a turd once in a while. Even the tricked-out long-range production rifles everyone is making now arent any better, they are simply production guns with the configuration people are looking for, but they arent inherently any more accurate than any other off the shelf rifle from that brand. You already have a good rifle regardless of what you paid for it--forget the price tag, performance like you described isnt a given even if you spend 2 or 3 or 4 times as much, especially if you are also particular about weight and some other stuff. In +/- your own words it just hits what you point it at without fuss and gives you confidence--if it's all that, dont ever get rid of that rifle! Worst case in the future it'll be a great loaner, travel gun, etc, it's not like you are going to sell it to fund an addition on your house or even a new rifle.
Now, if you want to IMPROVE on that with something that you can rely on to meet higher expectations out of the gate, and given a pretty low weight limit, at least one off-limits contender brand, some personal must-haves around recoil and little-to-no aftermarket work, I think realistically you are looking at a semicustom or custom rifle. Get some recommendations on a gunsmith who is good without breaking the bank and talk to them about what you want and see what they suggest, especially with regard to your injury and managing recoil with the stock. In the scheme of things you wont spend much more than your original budget, and you are a lot more likely to get something that will actually improve on what you already have. If it takes another year or whatever...well, you already have a rifle that just hits what you aim at and you have confidence in, so nothing really lost in the interim
My $0.02, hope it helps.
 
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Sounds like you should see if you can get a blaser r8 in 6.5 CM and quit playing around.

Your needs are jumping up to another level of firearms in price categories. Check out proof rifles, I think they have some competitors as well...
 

kickemall

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Take a look at a Sako S20 as it comes pretty close to checking your boxes. Two models, the precision and the hunter.
 
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Why not a Seekins PH2? To be clear, I’ve only drooled over them but haven’t actually owned one. Price is right, 24” barrel, 6.9lbs, good ergos, long mag box, threaded 5/8, arguably the best warranty out there. If it doesn’t shoot the way you want it to, send it in. I called to ask if five shots of factory ammo into 3/4MOA was a reasonable expectation for their warranty and they said it was 🤷‍♂️. I would tack on that personally, I think they’re overpriced. That’s why, and I hate to say this, I own more than a few Tikkas. But just ignore that last part!
 
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shax2lex

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Why not a Seekins PH2? To be clear, I’ve only drooled over them but haven’t actually owned one. Price is right, 24” barrel, 6.9lbs, good ergos, long mag box, threaded 5/8, arguably the best warranty out there. If it doesn’t shoot the way you want it to, send it in. I called to ask if five shots of factory ammo into 3/4MOA was a reasonable expectation for their warranty and they said it was 🤷‍♂️. I would tack on that personally, I think they’re overpriced. That’s why, and I hate to say this, I own more than a few Tikkas. But just ignore that last part!
I was going to say this for the rifle. Seems like it checks your boxes.

I have the NF NX8 4-32 FFP. I’d go with the 2-20. It’s too much zoom on the top end for closer things. I’d also go with the Mil-XT reticle.
 

Mojave

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The Weatherby Mark V new rifles are in that price range. They are making a sub 7 pound 6.5 creedmoor in quite a few variations. Most of them are lighter than that. The best one is about $2200 and comes with a fluted barrel, Peak 44 carbon fiber stock and all of them are threaded for a muzzle brake or come with one.


They do them from about $1200 for a plastic stock to about $4400 for a titanium action with a carbon fiber barrel and everywhere in between.

Would be my pick for what you want.

Actually mine would be a Blaser K95, but they are $10,000 stateside for the one I'd want.
 
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So WRT scope choice: I'm a little worried about not having low enough useful bottom end magnification (4x, 5x, 7x) but I'm pretty sure that at the closest I could get to an antelope I'd be OK with 7x, so I'm more worried about short changing myself on the top end (20x, 25x, 30x, 35x). Probably not going to get bigger/faster than 6.5CM/300WSM although I do have access to some long ranges.

The 6.5CM goes trans-sonic out about 1500 yards (That's another hint of my proposed use, too). If one were to put a 1/2-MIL plate out there and want to be able to see it well enough (with older eyes), and have some extra FOV left over to maybe spot misses, what is the lowest maximum magnification you would be happy with in an FFP scope? 20x? 25x? 30x? 35x?

Asking b/c I'm not sure I can tell if the online pictures of the FFP reticles are always at min & max magnification. I poached these images from the Minox TLHR review that @Formidilosus did where he provided the magnification on his images, but there doesn't seem to be as many labels online. I skwiggled up the second one to try and represent the same reticle at more magnification.

25x1663710752012.png(Red is about 0.5 MIL and seems pretty small to me in this 25x image)
~35x?1663711092669.png
 

Formidilosus

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The 6.5CM goes trans-sonic out about 1500 yards (That's another hint of my proposed use, too). If one were to put a 1/2-MIL plate out there and want to be able to see it well enough (with older eyes), and have some extra FOV left over to maybe spot misses, what is the lowest maximum magnification you would be happy with in an FFP scope? 20x? 25x? 30x? 35x?


9 to 10x minimum. We shoot 12” plates past 1,200 yards weekly with 6x.

Mirage is so bad often enough that even 20x isn’t usable. What you see in the image you have labeled “25x” is about what your eyes seem behind the scope at 5x. Your “35x” image is about what you’d see at 8-10x.
 

MattB

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I would have the barrel on your current rifle threaded for a brake. 2" of barrel length isn't going to give you 400 yards of extra range velocity-wise. If I was going to get another rifle for adding range, I wouldn't get a 6.5CM if I already had one that shoots well.
 
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