Help me select a "long range" 6.5 Creedmoor and glass

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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I hear ya.

I think that is why I am leaning toward a 26" barrel. I think if I get something with a 24" barrel that the two rifles will be so similar that I may end up keeping just one.


A 26” barrel 6.5CM won’t do anything at 600 yards on game or 1,000 yards on targets, that a 20” barrel 6.5CM won’t do.
 
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EmperorMA

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Keep it simple.

Grab a Tikka Roughtech, top it with a NF NX8, preferred base/rings, and grab as much ammo as you can.
No Tikka, but that NF NX8 2.5-20 looks like a great candidate. Hard to figure out which reticle, though, but the MOAR and MIL-C look good to me
 
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EmperorMA

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A 26” barrel 6.5CM won’t do anything at 600 yards on game or 1,000 yards on targets, that a 20” barrel 6.5CM won’t do.
I understand that. I just want something different and of a bit higher quality than what I have now. The cheap rifle I have now shoots good, though, so I plan to keep it.
 

Lawnboi

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No Tikka, but that NF NX8 2.5-20 looks like a great candidate. Hard to figure out which reticle, though, but the MOAR and MIL-C look good to me
Id do the 4-32 mil c. It’s got a lot of top end but you don’t need to use it being a ffp scope. Most of my shooting is done around 15 on both of mine. I also have some time with the 2.5-20 and see no reason not to go with the 4-32 ever.
 
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EmperorMA

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Id do the 4-32 mil c. It’s got a lot of top end but you don’t need to use it being a ffp scope. Most of my shooting is done around 15 on both of mine. I also have some time with the 2.5-20 and see no reason not to go with the 4-32 ever.
This makes sense. I have probably carried a rifle while hunting with my glass set on 4X magnification more than anything. This is mostly due to my only running 3-9X back in the day. For the last decade or perhaps a bit more I have carried at 6X.

No need to go below 4X on the low end, for sure. I have never had to turn a scope "down" before making a shot, even back in the day.
 

kickemall

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If you want something a little different you can pick up a Christensen Arms MPR in 6.5 creedmoor for under 2k if you shop around. An NX8 would be ideal but pushing your budget. If you don't mind SFP a Maven RS5 4-24 and if your capable, you can ring steel beyond 1200. Out to 1k you shouldn't have a problem with 15-16 power. The MPRs I've shot are fun, accurate guns.
 
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No Tikka, but that NF NX8 2.5-20 looks like a great candidate. Hard to figure out which reticle, though, but the MOAR and MIL-C look good to me
I recommend you fondle one somewhere if you can before buying. I thought the eyebox was tight, glass medicore, and the scope was a boat anchor.....sent it down the road immediately.
 
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I would start my shopping with sako 85 then. These browings seem to have ok rep for accuracy. I’d probably look at the Ruger stainless Hawkeye options. Either way you go it will be a bigger lottery if it will shoot as well as tikka. Also I’d be thinking chassis also so support would be high on my list and those pesky tikka’s have the support. Kimber or cooper perhaps. I’ve seen some stainless weatherby (the howa action ones) guys put into McMillan sako pattern stocks that are pretty nice looking and likely to shoot. So that may be a direction to look at for a little more personalization and pride of ownership. See if you can find the thread on 24 hr campfire forum about the McMillan colours...it was full of those weatherby restocked that looked great and they have the accuracy rep.
 
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EmperorMA

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@EmperorMA, what don't you like about Tikka, besides the stock?
Pretty much everything.

They are ugly.

They don’t even make a short action, and having a true short action is one of the biggest advantages I can think of in a rifle design.

Their “engineers” can’t even design a rifle that doesn’t kick the living shit out of you when you pull the trigger. Even a .243 Win has a nasty bite in a Tikka.

I’ll give ‘em ugly. But if you can’t design a rifle that mitigates recoil at least as much as the very cheapest and worst rifles on the market….and if you can’t design a rifle with a short action to take advantage of short action cartridges, why would I ever buy one?
 

Rob5589

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Depending on the current gun, I'd spin on a longer tube and spend the rest on new glass and ammo. Going from 22 to 26 isn't likely to blow your socks off, however.
 

TxxAgg

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Pretty much everything.

They are ugly.

They don’t even make a short action, and having a true short action is one of the biggest advantages I can think of in a rifle design.

Their “engineers” can’t even design a rifle that doesn’t kick the living shit out of you when you pull the trigger. Even a .243 Win has a nasty bite in a Tikka.

I’ll give ‘em ugly. But if you can’t design a rifle that mitigates recoil at least as much as the very cheapest and worst rifles on the market….and if you can’t design a rifle with a short action to take advantage of short action cartridges, why would I ever buy one?
Different strokes for different folks. Have you looked at thr CTR models? Heavier barrel (threaded) and different stock. They make a 24.3" barrel 6.5
 

Macintosh

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Pretty much everything.

They are ugly.

They don’t even make a short action, and having a true short action is one of the biggest advantages I can think of in a rifle design.

Their “engineers” can’t even design a rifle that doesn’t kick the living shit out of you when you pull the trigger. Even a .243 Win has a nasty bite in a Tikka.

I’ll give ‘em ugly. But if you can’t design a rifle that mitigates recoil at least as much as the very cheapest and worst rifles on the market….and if you can’t design a rifle with a short action to take advantage of short action cartridges, why would I ever buy one?
Felt recoil is almost entirely determined by the stock geometry and weight of the rifle. Tikkas are pretty light so they are going to recoil as much as any other 6 1/4-6 1/2lb rifle, and more than heavier rifles. The rest is stock geometry. I havent personally found the tikka stocks to recoil worse than other similar-weight rifles, but if this is a concern for you then an aftermarket stock with an adjustable recoil pad that will allow you to raise the pad higher, more in-line with the recoil impulse, also possibly with a flat or negative slope on the comb, will significantly reduce felt recoil and muzzle flip. Many monte carlo stocks are bad in this regard. A stock like a KRG bravo that allows you to adjust the recoil pad higher in relation to the bore will help you with this regardless of what rifle you get.
For what it's worth, I just set my 6.5cm tikka ctr up for a hunt. It's heavier than I really want to hunt with, but I couldnt find preferred ammo for my lighter rifle. The bare rifle is around 9lb and all-in with scope and rings, etc is about 10.75. It also has a good muzzle brake. I had had a couple pounds of lead decoy weights inside the factory stock, which I removed for this hunt. Anyway, it's very easy to get stable and this gun is a pussycat to shoot--it's extremely comfortable and easy to spot impacts with. I dont think its a perfect stock by any means, and while I am somewhat recoil sensitive I dont have an injury that would add to my sensitivity, but to me it feels comparable in terms of recoil geometry compared to similar shape stocks I've used in other guns. If you are feeling a lot of recoil on your face then a comb that slopes toward the gun, as opposed to sloping toward the butt, will tend to relieve pressure from your face, espeically if you can reduce the muzzle flip by raising the recoil pad. A few stocks are shaped like this already, you can use some adjustable combs like this, and you can also use a prosthetic comb like a Bradley cheek rest, which is pretty light weight and can be adjusted for negative drop, as well as to raise a comb high-enough to accommodate a higher scope which you may want if you raise the recoil pad.
 

Rob5589

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I must be doing it all wrong.... A 20 inch barrel and 3-12 scope, without a stupid brake to 1000 yards don't seem to hold me back. But then I actually shoot a little....
I did it with a stock 20" 700 in .308, with a straight 10x scope. Definitely makes you pay attention to the wind but it was totally doable.
 
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EmperorMA

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I must be doing it all wrong.... A 20 inch barrel and 3-12 scope, without a stupid brake to 1000 yards don't seem to hold me back. But then I actually shoot a little....
Easy there. I just want another rifle that is different enough from a current one that I will have a clear idea of which to use for specific situations. You know, set up for longer range ... maybe an adjustable stock (or a better stock, at least), longer barrel, rail system, bipod, stout rings, bigger scope.

I hate brakes, too. However, I have a very heavily-repaired shoulder and disc issues in my neck that require me to shoot rifles that have low recoil. Even an unbraked .308 Win is more than I should be shooting.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Sako 85 in 6.5 CM with 24.5" barrel and call it done. Everything you love about the Tikka while eliminating everything you hate...

No plastic, better designed stocks and more stock options, action and bolt length to match the chambering, adjustable and set triggers available, flush mount metal detachable magazine, etc. Only downfall is more limitations on ring/base options than the Tikka.
 
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Easy there. I just want another rifle that is different enough from a current one that I will have a clear idea of which to use for specific situations. You know, set up for longer range ... maybe an adjustable stock (or a better stock, at least), longer barrel, rail system, bipod, stout rings, bigger scope.

I hate brakes, too. However, I have a very heavily-repaired shoulder and disc issues in my neck that require me to shoot rifles that have low recoil. Even an unbraked .308 Win is more than I should be shooting.
Take a gander at a Limbsaver recoil pad. I put one a lightweight 870 shotgun and it made a very noticeable difference in felt recoil.
 
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