Help finalize the "Dixie Zipper" (Mini CBK) for a group buy

I really like a blade between 3 & 3 1/4 for fur, and even most processing of game. The swell of the spine of a Nessmuk design is easy to keep the tip out of the meat. The leaf pattern has more versatility to me, but a lot of them seem to long to me.
These designs are right up my alley.
 
I didn’t, I was wearing gloves.

I am working on the handle design for the G10 and plan to add texture.
are you planning to do a full contour handle or a "slab style" handle with rounded edges? I really don't have a lot of preference but the slab style is likely more cost effective.
 
So far this is the group buy specs. If you want something special, Dixie and @CypressCreek are your people. If another knife maker wants to help with custom orders, add the name I suppose.

This knife is intended as a well priced quality workhorse.

I may sell it with a small ceramic for sharpening. Much of what amounts to a “dull knife” is a “rolled edge” and a few swipes on a steel straightens it up without removing material. That’s what butchers are doing on the steel. Not really “sharpening” it in the removal of material sense.

I want a lightweight skinning, fleshing, quartering, deboning blade, so it won’t be thick for your bushcrafting. Think replacing the Havalon and Ourdoor Edge with a real knife.

It’s got one single purpose and will be awesome at what it is designed for, quickly skinning and easily dismembering a carcass for transport.

It will come with a kydex and possibly a leather sheath option. I plan on making the Kydex sheath versatile for vertical or horizontal carry. Or remove the belt clip to ride in the pack.

If you know of anyone who will make kydex sheaths, lemme know.

The knife blade will be in AEB-L a very good stainless. It works well and holds an edge. Dixie has agreed to help test the hardness of a few knives to ensure they meet the specs he is helping me design.

The handle choices will be orange G10 and maybe orange Micarta. If one other color rises to the top, I will try to add another in G10 and/or Micarta.

It will likely be slab sides, but I can get the Micarta cut and contoured.

The steel under the handle will be skeletonized but the handle will not.

No jimping. Add it if you want it.

The blade will be 3.25” ish long and handle in the 3.25” ish range. This is the Mini CKB. I will make a full size one as well, but this is where I think the best working knife size is for this purpose.

There will be two or three options for handle configuration for your preferred feel. So, the two scalloped CKB style, and one similar to the style @Ferrulewax proposed. Another will possibly be the single scallop with the tear drop/bulbous end.
 
So I did some patterns today of the ones I like. Left a little material so if a scallop is wanted on the back part of the handle.
Bottom two are the extreme handle /Blade angle. Third from bottom is a little more angle than the CBK and a bit wider.
The others are close to the original angles.
Will work on @furrelewax design tomorrow. Will be sending these patterns to Hereinaz to figure out his final design.
 

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So far this is the group buy specs. If you want something special, Dixie and @CypressCreek are your people. If another knife maker wants to help with custom orders, add the name I suppose.

This knife is intended as a well priced quality workhorse.

I may sell it with a small ceramic for sharpening. Much of what amounts to a “dull knife” is a “rolled edge” and a few swipes on a steel straightens it up without removing material. That’s what butchers are doing on the steel. Not really “sharpening” it in the removal of material sense.

I want a lightweight skinning, fleshing, quartering, deboning blade, so it won’t be thick for your bushcrafting. Think replacing the Havalon and Ourdoor Edge with a real knife.

It’s got one single purpose and will be awesome at what it is designed for, quickly skinning and easily dismembering a carcass for transport.

It will come with a kydex and possibly a leather sheath option. I plan on making the Kydex sheath versatile for vertical or horizontal carry. Or remove the belt clip to ride in the pack.

If you know of anyone who will make kydex sheaths, lemme know.

The knife blade will be in AEB-L a very good stainless. It works well and holds an edge. Dixie has agreed to help test the hardness of a few knives to ensure they meet the specs he is helping me design.

The handle choices will be orange G10 and maybe orange Micarta. If one other color rises to the top, I will try to add another in G10 and/or Micarta.

It will likely be slab sides, but I can get the Micarta cut and contoured.

The steel under the handle will be skeletonized but the handle will not.

No jimping. Add it if you want it.

The blade will be 3.25” ish long and handle in the 3.25” ish range. This is the Mini CKB. I will make a full size one as well, but this is where I think the best working knife size is for this purpose.

There will be two or three options for handle configuration for your preferred feel. So, the two scalloped CKB style, and one similar to the style @Ferrulewax proposed. Another will possibly be the single scallop with the tear drop/bulbous end.
Sounds exactly like what I’m after
 
So I did some patterns today of the ones I like. Left a little material so if a scallop is wanted on the back part of the handle.
Bottom two are the extreme handle /Blade angle. Third from bottom is a little more angle than the CBK and a bit wider.
The others are close to the original angles.
2nd version looks perfect!
 
Man first the annealer I didn’t know I was needing now a knife I probably don’t need but will end up with lol … it’s amazing how guys use their knives so much they know exactly what they want in a handle and blade shape style and thickness. I usually do 1-3 critters a year is all and just pull out the old outdoor edge replaceable blade knife and start whacking lol.
 
Pattern and one out of ABE-l ready for HT tomorrow. Felt really good in the hand.
Picture looks like the pattern is larger but they are the same size.
Super excited to see how it performs. I may be hitting you up for one at some point!

What steel thickness did you end up going with?
 
Super excited to see how it performs. I may be hitting you up for one at some point!

What steel thickness did you end up going with?
I went with .120 to see what the weight ends up. Will taper the tang and I hollowed it out some. Will forward the pattern to hereinaz
 
I went with .120 to see what the weight ends up. Will taper the tang and I hollowed it out some. Will forward the pattern to hereinaz
something in .100 or .110 would be interesting too :unsure:… too many options.

I am not quite convinced on the .080 steel recommended by many here. I’ll probably have to get a knife in that thinner stock to try out. Although a skinning knife’s purpose is not bushcraft, it is nice to know I could baton some kindling if need be.
 
something in .100 or .110 would be interesting too :unsure:… too many options.

I am not quite convinced on the .080 steel recommended by many here. I’ll probably have to get a knife in that thinner stock to try out. Although a skinning knife’s purpose is not bushcraft, it is nice to know I could baton some kindling if need be.
I think the sweet spot is around .100 and they are easier to keep straight during HT.
 
something in .100 or .110 would be interesting too :unsure:… too many options.

I am not quite convinced on the .080 steel recommended by many here. I’ll probably have to get a knife in that thinner stock to try out. Although a skinning knife’s purpose is not bushcraft, it is nice to know I could baton some kindling if need be.
I am torn on this point a little. This is how I come down on the decision for this knife and to try for the 0.08 thickness.

This version of the mini CBK I am making is a specialized tool. 1) I want it as light as possible and 2) excellently do the job of game processing. Those are the only two things I want from it. That will be 99.9% of the work ever done with my knife, carrying it and processing game.

So, I default to not compromising what I really want for something that is rare.

Also, because it is as light as possible, you can carry a real bushcraft knife without penalty if you are going into a situation where batoning wood may be a possibility. Most of my hunts, there isn't even wood to baton, lol. Cactus is pretty soft.

I might eventually make a thicker mini CBK, I understand the desire to have a more robust knife. I might have to go with 0.10 to achieve what I want.
 
I am torn on this point a little. This is how I come down on the decision for this knife and to try for the 0.08 thickness.

This version of the mini CBK I am making is a specialized tool. 1) I want it as light as possible and 2) excellently do the job of game processing. Those are the only two things I want from it. That will be 99.9% of the work ever done with my knife, carrying it and processing game.

So, I default to not compromising what I really want for something that is rare.

Also, because it is as light as possible, you can carry a real bushcraft knife without penalty if you are going into a situation where batoning wood may be a possibility. Most of my hunts, there isn't even wood to baton, lol. Cactus is pretty soft.

I might eventually make a thicker mini CBK, I understand the desire to have a more robust knife. I might have to go with 0.10 to achieve what I want.
Well said! A tool should be designed to excel at it's primary focus, anything else is just gravy. That being said there is no way I am taking an extra bush crafting knife for a 1/100 chance I actually need to use it! I am too much of a weenie!
 
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I am torn on this point a little. This is how I come down on the decision for this knife and to try for the 0.08 thickness.

This version of the mini CBK I am making is a specialized tool. 1) I want it as light as possible and 2) excellently do the job of game processing. Those are the only two things I want from it. That will be 99.9% of the work ever done with my knife, carrying it and processing game.

So, I default to not compromising what I really want for something that is rare.

Also, because it is as light as possible, you can carry a real bushcraft knife without penalty if you are going into a situation where batoning wood may be a possibility. Most of my hunts, there isn't even wood to baton, lol. Cactus is pretty soft.

I might eventually make a thicker mini CBK, I understand the desire to have a more robust knife. I might have to go with 0.10 to achieve what I want.
I think you are compromising/specializing with a mini so I would prefer to optimize it's use case with the thinner blade. I think it will really shine in front country / eastern hunts where gutting is more common than bushcraft.

I do see a use case for a SHTF version but in that scenario I would want a 4" blade length along with the thicker blade. Also worth noting that if I had intentions to baton wood I'd want a second knife for that task.

Something else I think you should look at ramping/scalloping the handle where it meets the blade to add comfort and security in a pinch or finger along the spine grip.
 
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