Hells Canyon Armory- Summit Barrel ***Updated 1/8/20***

slowelk

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Its 6.6 lbs and I opened the barrel channel and bedded it myself. Then I stiffened the foreend with bedding compound and it stiffened right up. Still hemming and hawing over what stock it will reside in in the future but for the time being its shooting lights out.

Jon - do you have that barrel completely free-floated? What all did you bed? Do you think it needed the bedding after you opened it up? I just put a proof pre-fit in the factory stock, and I want to cerakote it, but I'm concerned about the additional contact at those ribs, and then losing rigidity if I open it up.
 
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Jon Boy

Jon Boy

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Jon - do you have that barrel completely free-floated? What all did you bed? Do you think it needed the bedding after you opened it up? I just put a proof pre-fit in the factory stock, and I want to cerakote it, but I'm concerned about the additional contact at those ribs, and then losing rigidity if I open it up.
Yes the barrel is completely free floated. We bedded the areas around the two receiver screws and locked the recoil lug in. From there we used the remaining bedding compound and laid it in the foreend.

IMO it needed to be stiffened up after how much it was opened up. I usually load a bipod up pretty heavy and need a fairly stiff foreend and complete free float to refrain from any barrel contact.

To be honest we were just experimenting with the stock sense we had several factory tikka stocks laying around and were curious if the foreend could be stiffened enough after being opening up. After using it for a while and comparing with a B&C medalist, the foreend is just as stiff as the medalist.
At 28 oz, pistol grip, and a little foam to bring the comb up for proper cheek weld it really is hard to beat. I'd like to test drive a couple of after market stocks but for now I'm very happy with the slightly modified OEM stock.
c2ee20498aad45961a84e418cd51ddbc.jpg
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slowelk

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Yes the barrel is completely free floated. We bedded the areas around the two receiver screws and locked the recoil lug in. From there we used the remaining bedding compound and laid it in the foreend.

IMO it needed to be stiffened up after how much it was opened up. I usually load a bipod up pretty heavy and need a fairly stiff foreend and complete free float to refrain from any barrel contact.

To be honest we were just experimenting with the stock sense we had several factory tikka stocks laying around and were curious if the foreend could be stiffened enough after being opening up. After using it for a while and comparing with a B&C medalist, the foreend is just as stiff as the medalist.
At 28 oz, pistol grip, and a little foam to bring the comb up for proper cheek weld it really is hard to beat. I'd like to test drive a couple of after market stocks but for now I'm very happy with the slightly modified OEM stock.

Thanks for sharing the photos. Was the 6.6# with all of that bedding material in the fore-end? I have basically the same setup as you - harris bipod, nightforce shv 3-10, recoil lug, action screws bedded. Do you think if I shave down those shoulders just a bit I'll need to bed the fore-end?
 
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Jon Boy

Jon Boy

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Hard to say. It sounds like the summit is much thicker than your proof. There was no just shaving a fuzz off the shoulders. Having said that it's pretty easy to put some bedding compound in the fore end.

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brn2hnt

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Can't wait for the call that my HCA rifle is done!

Can I ask why the need/desire to put a brake on a 7/08?

Never shot a 7/08, but have always heard stories of light recoil.
 
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Jon Boy

Jon Boy

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Can't wait for the call that my HCA rifle is done!

Can I ask why the need/desire to put a brake on a 7/08?

Never shot a 7/08, but have always heard stories of light recoil.
All my rifles have brakes, I really like the ability to spot my own hits as I solo hunt a lot and shoot hunter class PRS. Also the 180s with a stout charge of h4350 have a fair bit of recoil with out a brake, not your typical 140 grain 7/08 load. I was able to recover from the recoil and spot my impact on my buck and bull this year. Which was very important for my deer as it stepped out of site at the impact, but I knew exactly where he was hit and that he wasnt going to go far.

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brn2hnt

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All my rifles have brakes, I really like the ability to spot my own hits as I solo hunt a lot and shoot hunter class PRS. Also the 180s with a stout charge of h4350 have a fair bit of recoil with out a brake, not your typical 140 grain 7/08 load. I was able to recover from the recoil and spot my impact on my buck and bull this year. Which was very important for my deer as it stepped out of site at the impact, but I knew exactly where he was hit and that he wasnt going to go far.

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Ahh missed the 180’s. That would be a big difference from the normal 140’s for sure.


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pa52855

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Great article, I was impressed with how the 7mm 08 performed. I use them here in Pa. but when I go west I use my 7mm STW. My 7mm 08's are a Rem 700 mt. rifle a browning A Bolt and a model seven Rem. They are all nice to carry and handle but I thought too light for out West.
 

Brush Buster

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Great review! Love seeing calibers like the 7-08 surprise people. Stories like this prove good rifle systems, and a competent shooter that is committed to good technique determine the lethality of a gun... not the caliber. I love the 300wm mike made for me. I think my buddies are already thinking of a tikka build he can make for them. Can’t wait for hunting season to come around so I can try to accomplish as much as you have. Really great stuff!
 
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Jon Boy

Jon Boy

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Truth is my camera died and my phone died right after I ran the dope for the shot so I only had pics at the truck. Which is too bad because it is the biggest deer ive taken.
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Jon Boy

Jon Boy

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Great article, I was impressed with how the 7mm 08 performed. I use them here in Pa. but when I go west I use my 7mm STW. My 7mm 08's are a Rem 700 mt. rifle a browning A Bolt and a model seven Rem. They are all nice to carry and handle but I thought too light for out West.
I have friends that run 7 mags and a 7 stw all with the exact same projectile as me, 180 eldm. From a pure numbers stand point in the rifles I have experience with, the 7/08 has 92% the performance of the 7 Remmy (2630 fps to 2850 fps) and 86% performance of a 7 stw (2630 fps to 3050 fps) While having a shorter barrel and using 40% or more less powder.

My experience on terminal effectiveness with the three has been so close it's hard to tell the small short comings of the 7/08. In some cases the 7/08 has out performed the other two on closer shots with the lower MV.

The big 7s with 180s in a lot of people minds are 900 yard rifles and beyond. I dont think I'll ever hunt with in 85% of those ranges so the 7/08 suits me just fine 600 yards and in on all game in the lower 48. In fact I dont think I'd run a hotter 7mm cartridge, if I need more I'm going to a 30 cal or bigger.

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Ratpick68

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well done Jon. Thanks for the hard work, analysis, commentary and success stories! Looking at a Tikka overhaul as we speak - 270WSM to 6.5PRC. Hunting gun for deer and smaller. Also lighter recoil for my son than my 28N or 7mmRM.
 

Dhbwa

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well done Jon. Thanks for the hard work, analysis, commentary and success stories! Looking at a Tikka overhaul as we speak - 270WSM to 6.5PRC. Hunting gun for deer and smaller. Also lighter recoil for my son than my 28N or 7mmRM.
Good choice on the 6.5 PRC. Recoil is noticeable less than either mentioned..
 

Wizbang

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Dec 8, 2020
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Yes the barrel is completely free floated. We bedded the areas around the two receiver screws and locked the recoil lug in. From there we used the remaining bedding compound and laid it in the foreend.

IMO it needed to be stiffened up after how much it was opened up. I usually load a bipod up pretty heavy and need a fairly stiff foreend and complete free float to refrain from any barrel contact.

To be honest we were just experimenting with the stock sense we had several factory tikka stocks laying around and were curious if the foreend could be stiffened enough after being opening up. After using it for a while and comparing with a B&C medalist, the foreend is just as stiff as the medalist.
At 28 oz, pistol grip, and a little foam to bring the comb up for proper cheek weld it really is hard to beat. I'd like to test drive a couple of after market stocks but for now I'm very happy with the slightly modified OEM stock.
c2ee20498aad45961a84e418cd51ddbc.jpg
c13b0bd9e4728a7a0e0b75b6b8846cd0.jpg


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What did you use for bedding compound? Did you get a glass kit? I’ve heard of guys using JB weld. Wondering if that would be better (stiffer) or if it would end up weighing more.


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