Just returned last night. Thanks for everyone who added tips to this thread. I had a fantastic trip and can't wait to get back. I'll add some pictures later when I get a chance. I wished I had known that a total archery challenge was going on in Big Sky this last weekend, I would have altered my plans.
We flew into Bozeman, hung out for a couple of days, backpacked into the Gallatin National Forest, drove down through Ennis to West Yellowstone, checked out Quake Lake, spent two nights in the park, and drove back along the Beartooth Highway into Red Lodge. Spent another night on Boulder Creek (which was crazy busy) and then back to Bozeman.
Couple of highlights:
- Big Sky has a weird vibe. Maybe it's just because it's a ski resort in the offseason. Not bad, just different.
- The guys at Stone Glacier are awesome. Big help. TSA somehow lost the belt from my wife's pack (a non-SG), we stopped in and they frankensteined a three piece belt to fit so that we could still backpack.
- We did the Lewis and Clark caverns, the Madison buffalo Jump and Three Forks as a neat day trip. It just so happened that Lewis and Clark were camped at the confluence 211 years ago to the day we were there.
- If someone from out of the area is planning on this trip and bringing their wife camping, be sure that they're not totally terrified of bears. I had to scale back some of my plans because my SO thought grizzlies were laying in wait around every tree. She's been fine when we're in black bear territory, but grizzles really put her off.
- I had a stud muley walk through my campsite in the Gallatin. I was sitting by the fire around 930 pm and heard a noise. I looked up and saw antlers 20 yards away. 4x4 at least and with that classic big ol' square rack. He had zero concerns about me or my fire. If I had my bow, and it was a month later and an hour earlier, I'd have a nice buck for the wall. About 20 minutes later a smaller fork horn came through and fed for like 15 minutes downwind of me.
- Saw lots of wildlife and stupid people in Yellowstone. The signs says the water is 195F, so of course I see people sticking their fingers into it. The bison were rutting, so of course I see people getting out of their car and trying to take pictures of the 2000 lb bull next to his cow.
- Best tip for Yellowstone is from MTMiller. Set your alarm clock. I saw Old Faithful go off at 730 am and there were about 16 people there. The thermal features and the Canyon/Falls were the worse for crowds. Lamar Valley wasn't too bad.
- The RV reservable campgrounds are way crowded and the first-come first-serve ones are tough to depend on. Pebble fills up last (noon-ish) and Slough Creek was booked by 7am.
- The beartooth highway is spectacular.
- I think Fairy Lake is a joke on out-of towners to get them to drive up there. A trail guide says that it's great swimming, so on a 96F day in town, my SO wanted to go swimming. It seemed like everyone from Bozeman was driving up or down that godforsaken road and the lake was only slightly above 40 degrees. She did jump in the lake (and right back out).
- I fished as much as I could and didn't land any monsters, but I had fun. Like 2ski says, everywhere is good. Also, fly fishing draws a crowd no matter where you go. I was fishing the Madison in the park and there was a crowd standing behind me taking pictures. Also on the Gallatin, Boulder, and Yellowstone in the park. I'm not that great of caster.