Glock 20 modifications for backcountry carry

[Mike D Texas]

I wouldn’t do anything to it. It’s dead reliable as it comes from the factory. When you get to monkeying with them you can easily compromise reliability.

Aftermarket barrels have tighter chambers and can introduce feeding issues with some bullets. That’s the last thing you want is a single shot auto loader pistol. 5.5# is perfectly fine for a defensive pistol.

Just test the rounds you intend to use for reliability and leave it alone.

If you are concerned about shooting lead in the factory barrel, shoot the solid copper ones instead like the Lehigh or similar. Penetration is just as good if not better than hard cast.

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[Jqlarson]

I've got the KKM barrel and 22lb spring in my G20. No jams, shoots great with the Underwood HC 220gr.

Is yours a gen4? I’m trying to figure out where to purchase a gen4 Glock 20 22 lb spring


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[mcseal2]

Mine was a Gen 4. I ended up selling it to the buddy I hunt with and going a different route.

As I shot the gun more I got occasional malfunctions with hardcast lead bullets. Not many, it was far better than before, but a few. I tried the new Buffalo Bore monometal ammo and it fed perfect. With that out now I’d try that before any modifications. So far the 3 10mm’s I’ve tried it in all shot it well and fed flawlessly.

 

[jzeblaz]

Mine was a Gen 4. I ended up selling it to the buddy I hunt with and going a different route.

As I shot the gun more I got occasional malfunctions with hardcast lead bullets. Not many, it was far better than before, but a few. I tried the new Buffalo Bore monometal ammo and it fed perfect. With that out now I’d try that before any modifications. So far the 3 10mm’s I’ve tried it in all shot it well and fed flawlessly.

What route did you end up going? I'm a 10mm fan as well as 41 mag. I did a more mods than I should have to the trigger group on the G20 and reliability went south. (FTF). It is a smooth shooter though, especially with a 6" KKM barrel, but it gained more weight than I'd have liked keeping it stock length. It's a big pistol. I think mine is a Gen 3.

 

[mcseal2]

I actually went heavier than I wanted but I got a Sig 220 Hunter. It’s an SAO pistol that doesn’t feel quite as good as a 1911 in my hands but its close. It has been 100% reliable with everything except 170gr practice ammo loaded down to 40 S&W speeds. After the first 200 rounds it never failed with that either.

Its not for everyone, but works for me. I shoot it well and don’t mind the safety. I have not yet had any issue with getting debris between the hammer and frame. I view my pistol as bear defense first, but also as a hunting gun if my rifle fails on a remote fly in hunt. I’d like to take a blacktail with the pistol next time I go to Kodiak. The Sig fits that roll well for me. It’s really easy to field strip compared to my 1911 also, really even easier than my Glock.

Someday I may try a Sig X10. I like the feel of the one I looked at but I’m going to give them time to work the bugs out. My favorite striker fired gun is the 365XL now, maybe I can learn to like the X10 too.

 

[JackBurton]

1) Would put tritium sights on them, either trijicon or meprolight... essentially the same thing.
2) Would get a stainless steel guide rod and 22lbs guide rod spring
3) Leave the trigger alone for best reliability
4) If you are going to shoot hard cast, you need to change the factory barrel. People that say you don't have shot hard cast a few times and nothing happened so must be good right? No, glock specifically says don't shoot hard cast for a reason. Drop in options are Storm Lake, KKM, or Bar-Sto, would stay away from Lone wolf
5) My personal holster set up is an ANR holster with RTI adapter on a GCODE RTI optimal drop plate. This set up puts the pistol dropped 2in, enough to clear my pack belt, but not so much of a drop that it pulls out at a weird angle on your draw. I have found with this set up, it is comfortable enough where you actually wear it all day after putting on 10-12 miles, and when you want to take it off, you just pull the holster off with the quick detach and don't have to mess with taking it off your belt. Can post pics if you like.

1) Would put tritium sights on them, either trijicon or meprolight... essentially the same thing.
2) Would get a stainless steel guide rod and 22lbs guide rod spring
3) Leave the trigger alone for best reliability
4) If you are going to shoot hard cast, you need to change the factory barrel. People that say you don't have shot hard cast a few times and nothing happened so must be good right? No, glock specifically says don't shoot hard cast for a reason. Drop in options are Storm Lake, KKM, or Bar-Sto, would stay away from Lone wolf
5) My personal holster set up is an ANR holster with RTI adapter on a GCODE RTI optimal drop plate. This set up puts the pistol dropped 2in, enough to clear my pack belt, but not so much of a drop that it pulls out at a weird angle on your draw. I have found with this set up, it is comfortable enough where you actually wear it all day after putting on 10-12 miles, and when you want to take it off, you just pull the holster off with the quick detach and don't have to mess with taking it off your belt. Can post pics if you like.

Looking to move to a less bulky drop leg than the Blackhawk and that Gcode RTI Optimal seems pretty slick. Do you have any issues with that kydex belt loop digging in with your backpack hip belt over it? Do you have much clearance to draw with a pack on? Looks like it would be right at hip belt level. Assuming you remove any pockets on the hip belt. Thanks.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

Looking to move to a less bulky drop leg than the Blackhawk and that Gcode RTI Optimal seems pretty slick. Do you have any issues with that kydex belt loop digging in with your backpack hip belt over it? Do you have much clearance to draw with a pack on? Looks like it would be right at hip belt level. Assuming you remove any pockets on the hip belt. Thanks.

I don’t have issue with it digging in. It took a while to find the right belt though that would support the holster but not be so thick it digs in. I also will wear the holster at more of a 4 o’clock position, that seems to help it not being right on the side.
Drawing with a pack on is easy, there is plenty of clearance. I even have pockets on hip belt, your hip belt should really be a bit above your waist.
You do need to practice your draw stroke coming straight up and out. I like the tension in the holster pretty tight for peace of mind/security, there is also no secondary attachment point at bottom of holster, so if you draw and don’t pull directly up the gun will not draw smoothly.
Here are some pictures, you can kind of get an idea. Hope that helps.

 

[rangerysidro]

I like to run mine slick, I focus on having the FHF chest holster and the Gunfighters thigh holster.