Fletching choice

KcNsan3

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Forgive my ignorance in advance, I'm doing as much research as I can to abolish it as fast as possible. I've decided to build my own arrows now that I've learned to tune my own bow. (shop I took it too played me for a fool in terms of tuning it, so I'm taking it upon myself) I'm curious on fletching choice. I've been looking everywhere for something of a guide. I'm shooting 70 lbs and plan to make new arrows with a 340 5mm axis. Is fletching personal preference? From what I gathered you can afford larger fletching for a more stable flight out of a more powerful bow. Any information or references would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Love this community!

**EDIT: Running Montec G5's
 
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sndmn11

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They will all give you the same result; Q2i raptor, AAE hybrid/max 26, blazers, etc.

The glue matters, so just make sure you are using what is compatible with the came you choose.

I think choosing vanes that for your budget and are easy to obtain locally are the best route.
 

jimh406

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The angle and type of fletching depends on broadhead size/type. What broadhead are you planning to use?
 
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KcNsan3

KcNsan3

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If it's old and reliable, why not just use what you used before?
My arrows I bought from the store are not spine rated to my bow, and not producing the groupings desired. Im looking to fine tune my setup while teaching myself the process.
 

jimh406

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My arrows I bought from the store are not spine rated to my bow, and not producing the groupings desired. Im looking to fine tune my setup while teaching myself the process.
But, you used some type of fletching before with those broad heads with different arrows, right? I'm suggesting using the same fletching on these different arrows.
 
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KcNsan3

KcNsan3

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But, you used some type of fletching before with those broad heads with different arrows, right? I'm suggesting using the same fletching on these different arrows.
The arrows weren't purchased with the broadhead in mind. They were premade from the store I went to. With g5's what angle and type of fletching should I go with?
 

jimh406

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The arrows weren't purchased with the broadhead in mind. They were premade from the store I went to. With g5's what angle and type of fletching should I go with?
So, are you saying you've never used those broad heads before?
 
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To break it down to basics....


You put a broadhead on the front (blades will create resistance and steer) you need to counter it on the back.

Bigger steer in the front, need more steer in the back. The more shaft between them, generally you need a little more steer (drag) on the back.



Taller means more than longer. Helical means more than straighter.


The more you tune the more you can get away with, but that's kinda perfect situation stuff and doesn't always account for odd position shooting.


Generally for fixed heads you probably want a minimum .4 if not .45 tall vane in my experience with 3 degrees if or more offset.
 
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AAE has many great options. I’ve been running max stealth 4 fletch setup last two seasons and have had success with my Muzzy Trocar HB flying true.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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KcNsan3

KcNsan3

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To break it down to basics....


You put a broadhead on the front (blades that create resistance and steer) you need to counter it on the back.

Bigger steer in the front, need more steer in the back. The more shaft between them, generally you need a little more steer (drag) on the back.



Taller means more than wider. Helical means more than straighter.


The more you tune the more you can get away with, but that's kinda perfect situation stuff and doesn't always account for odd position shooting.


Generally for fixed heads you probably want a minimum .4 if not .45 tall vane in my experience with 3 degrees if or more offset.
THANK YOU
 
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KcNsan3

KcNsan3

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To break it down to basics....


You put a broadhead on the front (blades that create resistance and steer) you need to counter it on the back.

Bigger steer in the front, need more steer in the back. The more shaft between them, generally you need a little more steer (drag) on the back.



Taller means more than wider. Helical means more than straighter.


The more you tune the more you can get away with, but that's kinda perfect situation stuff and doesn't always account for odd position shooting.


Generally for fixed heads you probably want a minimum .4 if not .45 tall vane in my experience with 3 degrees if or more offset.
So I'm running g5's and was planning to do a 3 fletch on the back end. Being those broadheads are awesome with wind do you think I could get away with below .4 or should I just start with .4 and do some trial and error. Thanks
 
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So I'm running g5's and was planning to do a 3 fletch on the back end. Being those broadheads are awesome with wind do you think I could get away with below .4 or should I just start with .4 and do some trial and error. Thanks


What do you mean by awesome with wind?


No, I wouldn't recommend to anyone to shoot a fixed with less than a .4 tall vane in 3 fletch. Maybe and a big maybe to try slightly shorter with 4 fletch.


I can get away with short vanes and 3 fletch with 1.25" fixed heads. I don't trust that they will fly true in hunting situations when I might not be perfect.
 
Joined
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If your interested in seeing the differences in vanes/fletchingscheck this video out.


I've heard some talk about arrows spinning too much. I've heard some talk about arrows being too loud. I suppose it's a balance of several things that you need to see what you like.
 
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KcNsan3

KcNsan3

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What do you mean by awesome with wind?


No, I wouldn't recommend to anyone to shoot a fixed with less than a .4 tall vane in 3 fletch. Maybe and a big maybe to try slightly shorter with 4 fletch.


I can get away with short vanes and 3 fletch with 1.25" fixed heads. I don't trust that they will fly true in hunting situations when I might not be perfect.
Small surface area and they generally are known to hit true with a field point with little to no broadhead tuning/adjustments to your rest. I was planning to set my flitching's in line with the blades for optimized trigonal symmetry. It was the particulars of the fletching themselves I was having some trouble figuring out. Thanks for the help.
 
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Small surface area and they generally are known to hit true with a field point with little to no broadhead tuning/adjustments to your rest. I was planning to set my flitching's in line with the blades for optimized trigonal symmetry. It was the particulars of the fletching themselves I was having some trouble figuring out. Thanks for the help.

I'd ignore marketing.

Mechanicals have small surface areas, fixed blades, even if they have smaller claimed areas are still raised above the centerline and any area above centerline amplifies the effect. It's like a lever.
Well, it's like a wing, and the further it gets from center tiny little differences will show. Straightness doesn't matter hardly at all with a field point, a fixed blade shows it quickly.


I never found aligning fletching to vanes to matter, too much space between them. I think you take a big 2 blade and have it aligned vertically, you might notice differences between a big 2 blade set horizontal, but it's due to nock travel at launch.



I'm not saying Montecs won't fly well, but don t think you just screw them on and everything is good. Same for any other broadhead, mechanical or otherwise.
 
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