Fletching choice

[KcNsan3]

If your interested in seeing the differences in vanes/fletchingscheck this video out.

I've heard some talk about arrows spinning too much. I've heard some talk about arrows being too loud. I suppose it's a balance of several things that you need to see what you like.

This is awesome information. Thank you

 

[etz_cutter]

This is awesome information. Thank you

No problem.

I liked four fletch purely on the way it looked when I tried various fletching types. Currently shoot 3 fletch to keep weight down but need to shoot more.

 

[KcNsan3]

No problem.

I liked four fletch purely on the way it looked when I tried various fletching types. Currently shoot 3 fletch to keep weight down but need to shoot more.

I was taking the same approach. Would like to maintain speed as much as possible cause at the moment my setup is shooting lasers. Just the groupings suck. Had to find the one of the five arrows that hit true, went with that, and it went well. I want to narrow that down for more consistency if possible.

 

[Fisherhahn]

You say the grouping sucks, are you sure it’s the vanes that are causing the problem? There are many things that can cause groups to open up. How is your form? Are you sure the bow is tuned properly? You said your shop didn’t do it right, how do you know? You said you are new to archery, I’d start with a better bow shop, confirm everything is good, grab some factory fletched arrows and do some shooting. Develop some fundamentals before you start worrying about 2 or 3 degrees of offset on your fletching.

PS- looking at that archery buck in your pic, it looks like your doing just fine with whatever setup that is!

 

[KcNsan3]

You say the grouping sucks, are you sure it’s the vanes that are causing the problem? There are many things that can cause groups to open up. How is your form? Are you sure the bow is tuned properly? You said your shop didn’t do it right, how do you know? You said you are new to archery, I’d start with a better bow shop, confirm everything is good, grab some factory fletched arrows and do some shooting. Develop some fundamentals before you start worrying about 2 or 3 degrees of offset on your fletching.

PS- looking at that archery buck in your pic, it looks like your doing just fine with whatever setup that is!

I casually shot a compound I had for years for leisure. I never hunted with it. I am now hunting with a different bow. Thanks, its a RX7 and I had to hand pick the one arrow out of the 5 I had that hit true. I'm confident on my form but acknowledge there is always room for improvement. The arrows I bought are not spine rated for my bow, so I plan to make new ones. In making new ones, I plan to learn the ins and outs of the arrow tuning process. I watched videos to check my cams are timed (of which they are) and had my nock checked for function (of which I have learned in that time how to do myself). My rest was broadhead tuned to shoot both my field points and broadheads and to stack. If you can think of anything else that would point to the bow being the problem enlighten me. My best deduction points to the arrows.

 

[sh40674]

I recently switched from blazers to rapt-x vanes (q2i version of a blazer style) and am happy. Q2i adhesion is top notch, they're quieter in flight (I fletch with a mini max and they put on a hard right helical). More durable as well, so if you shoot a biscuit or arrow gets buried in the target they come out of it better

 

[Fisherhahn]

I think you nailed it in your reply, your arrows are not spined properly. That would likely havr a much greater effect on accuracy than fletching type. All else being equal, unless the fletchings are not put on properly, the arrows with any fletching should group together. If the concern is steering a broadhead, go with a 4 fletch and proper spine shafts. The nice thing with the 4 fletch is knocking arrows without having to look, cock fletch up or down. Saves those split seconds that add up.

 

[guitarpreston]

I tried some 2 inch tac vanes at the suggestion of my local shop (I no longer go there for similar reasons similar to yours). They were way too small even with a 4 fletch wouldn't steer well. Swapped to some DCA super sabres in a 3 fletch and my fixed blade is grouping with field tips out to 80...It's a shitty group but there is no outlier, and the group size is 100% my fault. They shoot great. Have an Arizona EZ fletch on the way, didn't care for my bohning bitz knockoff.

 

[Stache Attack]

Small surface area and they generally are known to hit true with a field point with little to no broadhead tuning/adjustments to your rest. I was planning to set my flitching's in line with the blades for optimized trigonal symmetry. It was the particulars of the fletching themselves I was having some trouble figuring out. Thanks for the help.

Your symmetry goes out the window when the arrow rotates. If you want to get fancy float them and index your vertical vane on that point. I prefer 3 3” vanes with off set and helical. Stealth hunter, silent knight 3s, or a tac 2.75 driver.

Biggest ting is spin them before you cut and insert. Cut off the wobbly side

 

[Tilzbow]

Forgive my ignorance in advance, I'm doing as much research as I can to abolish it as fast as possible. I've decided to build my own arrows now that I've learned to tune my own bow. (shop I took it too played me for a fool in terms of tuning it, so I'm taking it upon myself) I'm curious on fletching choice. I've been looking everywhere for something of a guide. I'm shooting 70 lbs and plan to make new arrows with a 340 5mm axis. Is fletching personal preference? From what I gathered you can afford larger fletching for a more stable flight out of a more powerful bow. Any information or references would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Love this community!

**EDIT: Running Montec G5's

Unless your draw length is really short those .340 spine Axis will likely be underspined.

 

[mod-it]

I really prefer Q2i vanes, mainly for how easy they are to glue on. Q2i uses the same type of base on all their vanes, a material that makes for easy adhesion. I clean arrow and base of vane with 91% alcohol and then glue, no primer needed. Never had a problem getting them to stick well.
The only thing I could knock Q2i for is their advertised vane weights...you can easily add .5 grains to their listed numbers.

Q2i vanes that I have experience with, that should steer a fixed BH just fine in a 3 fletch configuration with around 2° to 3° of offset applied:

-Rapt-X's. 2" long, .55" tall. Blazer knock offs but made with a stiffer material so they aren't as noisy in flight as Blazers. I have used these the most, never a problem getting a fixed BH to tune with them.

-Griff-X. These are a parabolic shape. I have used the 3", .43" tall for hunting. One of the quietest in flight they offer. This one has pretty much become my preferred hunting vane.

Fusion X-ll. (Do not confuse with "regular" Fusion ll's). Shield cut. I have used the 3", .45" tall. Pretty heavy vane, they run around 10 grains each. They do make a 2.5" length now, I'd bet they would steer a fixed just fine too.

Fusion ll. Shield cut. 2.1" length, .55" tall. I have not used these for hunting, but they should steer a 1-1/8" fixed just fine.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

I use bohning heat In left helical for mechanical and 3d and blazers for fixed.Both are the same weight.
I would like to try a few different but these get the job done.

 

[nphunter]

Buy these and focus on shooting and other stuff. If you damage one it takes just a few seconds to replace them. The 3” low profile quik spin is one of the best vanes I’ve ever used. These will work awesome with your fixed heads and it only takes a few minutes to fletch up a dozen arrows and you can shoot them right after your done.

Quik Fletch

 

[KcNsan3]

I think you nailed it in your reply, your arrows are not spined properly. That would likely havr a much greater effect on accuracy than fletching type. All else being equal, unless the fletchings are not put on properly, the arrows with any fletching should group together. If the concern is steering a broadhead, go with a 4 fletch and proper spine shafts. The nice thing with the 4 fletch is knocking arrows without having to look, cock fletch up or down. Saves those split seconds that add up.

This was my deduction as well. Just was doing research on fletching and surprised there wasnt charts or guides like there were with spines. I just want to learn the process in its entirety and do it myself this go. Thanks for the reply!

 

[KcNsan3]

I recently switched from blazers to rapt-x vanes (q2i version of a blazer style) and am happy. Q2i adhesion is top notch, they're quieter in flight (I fletch with a mini max and they put on a hard right helical). More durable as well, so if you shoot a biscuit or arrow gets buried in the target they come out of it better

I appreciate the reply!

 

[KcNsan3]

I tried some 2 inch tac vanes at the suggestion of my local shop (I no longer go there for similar reasons similar to yours). They were way too small even with a 4 fletch wouldn't steer well. Swapped to some DCA super sabres in a 3 fletch and my fixed blade is grouping with field tips out to 80...It's a shitty group but there is no outlier, and the group size is 100% my fault. They shoot great. Have an Arizona EZ fletch on the way, didn't care for my bohning bitz knockoff.

Appreciate the suggestions! Ill look into them!

 

[KcNsan3]

Unless your draw length is really short those .340 spine Axis will likely be underspined.

28". 340 was one of the three options. Should I go for something stiffer?

 

[KcNsan3]

I really prefer Q2i vanes, mainly for how easy they are to glue on. Q2i uses the same type of base on all their arrows, a material that makes for easy adhesion. I clean arrow and base of vane with 91% alcohol and then glue, no primer needed. Never had a problem getting them to stick well.
The only thing I could knock Q2i for is their advertised vane weights...you can easily add .5 grains to their listed numbers.

Q2i vanes that I have experience with, that should steer a fixed BH just fine in a 3 fletch configuration with around 2° to 3° of offset applied:

-Rapt-X's. 2" long, .55" tall. Blazer knock offs but made with a stiffer material so they aren't as noisy in flight as Blazers. I have used these the most, never a problem getting a fixed BH to tune with them.

-Griff-X. These are a parabolic shape. I have used the 3", .43" tall for hunting. One of the quietest in flight they offer. This one has pretty much become my preferred hunting vane.

Fusion X-ll. (Do not confuse with "regular" Fusion ll's). Shield cut. I have used the 3", .45" tall. Pretty heavy vane, they run around 10 grains each. They do make a 2.5" length now, I'd bet they would steer a fixed just fine too.

Fusion ll. Shield cut. 2.1" length, .55" tall. I have not used these for hunting, but they should steer a 1-1/8" fixed just fine.

Thank you for the suggestions! Ill look into these

 

[KcNsan3]

Buy these and focus on shooting and other stuff. If you damage one it takes just a few seconds to replace them. The 3” low profile quik spin is one of the best vanes I’ve ever used. These will work awesome with your fixed heads and it only takes a few minutes to fletch up a dozen arrows and you can shoot them right after your done.

Quik Fletch

Thank you! Ill look into them!

 

[KcNsan3]

Your symmetry goes out the window when the arrow rotates. If you want to get fancy float them and index your vertical vane on that point. I prefer 3 3” vanes with off set and helical. Stealth hunter, silent knight 3s, or a tac 2.75 driver.

Biggest ting is spin them before you cut and insert. Cut off the wobbly side

Appreciate the input!