Fixed crawl advise needed

[Wellsdw]

Looking to try a fixed crawl set up with my Toelke whip, 49#. Currently shooting point on at 25 with gt 500 31.5” arrows. Before I go hacking arrows off I wanted to reach out for any tips on starting point. I flung a 29” arrow with 225 up front with a 400 spine and it hit way low…. 18”. ( that was at 1/2 below nock.

 

[socoalt]

A shorter arrow will increase point on distance. I just spent over two hours at RMS Gear last week trying to get a tune for my recurve. I went in with 400 spine cut at 29.25” with 250 up front and left with 340 spine cut at 31.5 and 250 up front. Gave me 35 yd point on and 25 yd with a 1/2” fixed crawl.

I would say with your 29” arrow your crawl will be 1” to 1 1/2” below your nock.

 

[Undomesticated]

I am unsure of what you are trying to accomplish. What’s your desired end state?

To be clear, you have a 25-yard point-on with your current set-up (with no crawl?)

Are you trying to get an even closer point-on? (25 yards is already a versatile point-on distance).

 

[bisblue]

My slow bow has a 33 yard point on for reference.

I did have Joel Turner tell me that shooting a crawl without pre ignition movements equaled hitting your face with the string. Shooting a crawl made it harder for me to shoot without target panic since I was smashing my face each shot

 

[Felix40]

I would be trimming arrows to tune them perfectly and THEN start messing with your crawl to get the point on distance you want. Trying to trim arrows to adjust your point on is backwards. Get perfect flight first.

 

[Beendare]

I am unsure of what you are trying to accomplish. What’s your desired end state?

To be clear, you have a 25-yard point-on with your current set-up (with no crawl?)

Are you trying to get an even closer point-on? (25 yards is already a versatile point-on distance).

Yeah, 25y is about perfect for hunting….and the trad 3d shoots with a 30y max.

Sure, sometimes a longer PO is required….not sure what you are trying to do but crawling always shortens your PO

 

[Hawkeye29]

I would be trimming arrows to tune them perfectly and THEN start messing with your crawl to get the point on distance you want. Trying to trim arrows to adjust your point on is backwards. Get perfect flight first.

One thing to keep in mind as well is that the further you crawl down the string the more it will change the tune of your arrow. Then again, I have enough different weighted broadheads to last a lifetime because of arrow shafts that came out too stiff. Let's not talk about the five-gallon bucket of arrows either!

 

[oldgoat]

I would never subject one of my Toelke's to a fixed crawl! And that's not because of some trad police purist sentiment, it's because they aren't tillered or designed for it, at least get ahold of Dan or Jared and see what they say about it because I could be all wet on this, but I don't think that's good on the bow. It will also be much louder than being shot the way it's tillered for.

 

[Undomesticated]

Yeah, 25y is about perfect for hunting….and the trad 3d shoots with a 30y max.

Sure, sometimes a longer PO is required….not sure what you are trying to do but crawling always shortens your PO

OP, I haven't heard back on your intentions?

Like said, if you already have a 25-yard point-on, just roll with it. No need for a crawl.

Fixed crawl is great for guys with a longer point-on who are trying to bring it closer. But, it shortens your power stroke and effects the strain you apply to limbs (often requiring tiller adjustments).

 

[roosiebull]

Looking to try a fixed crawl set up with my Toelke whip, 49#. Currently shooting point on at 25 with gt 500 31.5” arrows. Before I go hacking arrows off I wanted to reach out for any tips on starting point. I flung a 29” arrow with 225 up front with a 400 spine and it hit way low…. 18”. ( that was at 1/2 below nock.

I messed around with a crawl, but ultimately I decided changing my anchor was a better solution. Anything that makes a stick bow louder makes me cringe. Between arrow length and anchor I was able to get a 22yd point on, and raising my anchor got my eye closer to the arrow (easier for my brain to aim)

I couldn’t handle the extra bow noise with a crawl when there were other way to achieve the same result, getting perfect bare shaft flight was not as easy either.

Another thing I did was tie in 2 nock points below my arrow (and one above of course) that gave me a small crawl and my nock point never moved, but that’s why I did that, because I like halo center serving, but it’s slick, and a single nock would occasionally move on me if I tied it in a way I could move it by spinning it (which I always do)

Between the double nock points and higher anchor, I didn’t need to do a crawl, and my bow still tunes easily and it’s not loud.

I know it sucks making a big change like moving your anchor, but there are a lot of very good reference points higher on your face, and I can see the arrow better

 

[Wellsdw]

I appreciate the advice I will mess around with changing my anchor. My point on is about 25, so I’m close