Field points consistently hit left of aim point

[Duerrr]

My field points group well at 20 yards. Theyre consistently hitting left of aim. Ive adjusted my sight all the way to the left already. They still hit consistently left. Sighting in would dictate I move the windage left more, but like Ive stated, its already all the way left.

I always assume form issues. Just in case I am doing okay with form ( bow grip torque, release hand angle, etc), what else could I be doing wrong?

How do I fix this?

I have a Mathews V3 31, 29.5 inch DL, 70.5 lb draw weight, Stan heavy metal large back tension release, Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL Double pin, HHA Virtus Rest

27.5 inch shaft, 300 spine, Easton FMJ, 3 fletch 3 inch Silent Knight left helical 1.5 deg,
125 grain FP, 45 grain insert, Easton 6 grain deep six nock

 

[WeiserBucks]

Aim further to the right.

 

[HuntHarder]

Pretty sure this will be a grip torque issue. I shoot Mathews and every one I have ever shot, has been finicky on torqueing. If for some reason it isn't torqueing, I would check your center shot. Your arrow may be slightly angled to the left and not dead center. Some paper tuning should quickly identify some issues.

 

[Duerrr]

Pretty sure this will be a grip torque issue. I shoot Mathews and everyone one I have ever shot has been finicky on torqueing. If for some reason it isn't torqueing, I would check your center shot. Your arrow may be slightly angled to the left and not dead center. Some paper tuning should quickly identify some issues.

I will definitely examine my grip as soon as there's daylight. Did you buy a different grip?
I will also examine my centershot.

I put all my specs on Archers Advantage and I should have optimum spine. Reason I checked was to fix a spine "issue" on AA. I had a 28 inch carbon to carbon and AA said if I cut down to 27.5 in I would have optimum spine. I cut it down and paper tuned.

I had a tail right tear. I moved my rest to the left.

Bullet hole.

I was hitting good groups and bullseyes at even at 60 yards ( I dont hunt that far at this point but I need to sight in) but I had a tail right tear that gnawed at me from an earlier paper tune attempt. I decided not to touch my rest because everything was dialed in, except for a paper tune tear.

Now I have this problem when I did move my rest. Anyways, thanks. I will look at my grip.

 

[87TT]

Right or left handed?

 

[Duerrr]

Right handed. At this point, any and all suggestions will be entertained. Except aiming to the right haha

 

[87TT]

I used to shoot to the right and am right handed. I found I was trying to see the shot and t. Your case probably torque as stated.
Usually when I start hitting right, I'm punching the trigger now

 

[Gatorgrizz27]

Following this. I shoot an older Mathews and was hitting groups like this with very minimal effort. IIRC this group was even shooting one arrow each at 5,10,15,20,25,30, and 35 yards, which explains the 4” vertical stringing. I’ve shot two arrows at the same distance and broken nocks off.



It suddenly started shooting 10-12” groups, and mostly to the right. talked to my hunting partner that has a lot of experience messing with bows and he assumed it was form.

I could concentrate on form and shrink them back to 6-8” groups but it’s never shot like it used to since. I’m thinking the string has stretched and its out of tune, but I haven’t paper tuned it or replace the string yet.

One other thing is occasionally it will have an arrow grouping with the rest of them, but it sticks out of the target at a 25-30 degree angle. Spine should be correct for my drawer weight, length, and head weight.

 

[sneaky]

What distance are you shooting through paper? I always do a few up close, 5-6ft, then back at about 20ft. Archer's Advantage and other programs are starting points, but do NOT take what they spit out as gospel. At 27.5 on shaft length even with 160gr up front that seems a little stiff. What kind of release are you using? Have you checked cam lean? There's quite a few things to check, try some different shafts as well, even a different brand 300 spine. I've had some arrows that just didn't work out of particular bows.

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[jpmulk]

I have noticed in the past that this is resolved by a good paper tune. And dont let someone else paper tune it for you. You have to be the one pulling the trigger with proper form for the paper tune.

 

[Duerrr]

What distance are you shooting through paper? I always do a few up close, 5-6ft, then back at about 20ft. Archer's Advantage and other programs are starting points, but do NOT take what they spit out as gospel. At 27.5 on shaft length even with 160gr up front that seems a little stiff. What kind of release are you using? Have you checked cam lean? There's quite a few things to check, try some different shafts as well, even a different brand 300 spine. I've had some arrows that just didn't work out of particular bows.

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You're right. I thought AA was a step up from the Easton shaft selector (it kinda is)and thus thought it was gospel. Nothing beats systematically derived empirical data. Everything up to before AA was good, except for that tail right tear I did nothing about. I thought it was a spine issue. When I did follow AA and cut down the shaft to stiffen the spine, I went ahead and also messed with my rest and did get a bullet hole. Now this left of center stuff I have to fix.

I only did it up to 8 ft from paper. Eye level, perpendicular to the paper, "good" form, no wind. I use a Stan Perfex back tensiin resistance.

Funnily enough before the sun went down I did put on 100 grain field points and I hit closer to bullseye. Still left though.

Spine may be one thing. The rest is another. Grip torque. Unfortunately in the market for some arrows now. Its not a cheap "hobby."

 

[Marble]

I have noticed in the past that this is resolved by a good paper tune. And dont let someone else paper tune it for you. You have to be the one pulling the trigger with proper form for the paper tune.

This for sure.

Secondly, hand grip may be an issue and it probably is. However, when people have grip issues they tend to shoot more in an inconsistent horizontal line, left to right. And moving zero should change that when looking at group locations.

Get set at zero, bow set up by the tune charts, paper tune, check all 3 axis, zero 20 and move back.

Another issue which will usually show itself as more of an inconsistency, is over aiming. People who have marginal vision, or are new to the sport, will over aim at short yardage. They do this because they can see the target really well at short range and can see their pin move on the target. So they grip the shit out of the bow, trying to hold their pin perfectly still and spray arrows at 20 yards.

Move them out to 50 or 60 yards, they can't see as well and they relax.

When it comes down to it, this is probably a combination of tuning, form and experience.

Lastly, their could be an equipment issue which is unknown without inspecting the bow.

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[CodeMonkey]

What kind of sight do you shoot? If it's the the kind with horizontal pins, it could be a target panic thing (I know because I diagnosed this in my shooting). Basically, the bar the pin is connected to covers your aim point and you think that means your pin is on (usually this is where I'd punch the trigger of my release), when it fact its well to the left.

I realized this was the case because at ranges where I gap my pins, I was on left/right. On yardages that are exact (say 30, 40, 50, etc.) I end up missing slightly (or terribly) left.

Not saying this is the case with you, but something to consider.

 

[Duerrr]

This for sure.

Secondly, hand grip may be an issue and it probably is. However, when people have grip issues they tend to shoot more in an inconsistent horizontal line, left to right. And moving zero should change that when looking at group locations.

Get set at zero, bow set up by the tune charts, paper tune, check all 3 axis, zero 20 and move back.

Another issue which will usually show itself as more of an inconsistency, is over aiming. People who have marginal vision, or are new to the sport, will over aim at short yardage. They do this because they can see the target really well at short range and can see their pin move on the target. So they grip the shit out of the bow, trying to hold their pin perfectly still and spray arrows at 20 yards.

Move them out to 50 or 60 yards, they can't see as well and they relax.

When it comes down to it, this is probably a combination of tuning, form and experience.

Lastly, their could be an equipment issue which is unknown without inspecting the bow.

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Hmm. Yet another thing to examine. Thanks!

 

[dieselchessy]

Not familiar with the bow.
Where do broadheads hit?

Could be cam lean, rest position, fletching contact, form, arrow spine, ect….

 

[bigW]

My field points group well at 20 yards. Theyre consistently hitting left of aim. Ive adjusted my sight all the way to the left already. They still hit consistently left. Sighting in would dictate I move the windage left more, but like Ive stated, its already all the way left.

I always assume form issues. Just in case I am doing okay with form ( bow grip torque, release hand angle, etc), what else could I be doing wrong?

How do I fix this?

I have a Mathews V3 31, 29.5 inch DL, 70.5 lb draw weight, Stan heavy metal large back tension release, Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL Double pin, HHA Virtus Rest

27.5 inch shaft, 300 spine, Easton FMJ, 3 fletch 3 inch Silent Knight left helical 1.5 deg,
125 grain FP, 45 grain insert, Easton 6 grain deep six nock

you likely "overmoved" the rest when your sight is at the end of the adjustment - go back to center shot, that's 13/16", stick to the 13/16" plus / minus 1/16", if you can't get the bow paper-tuned by moving the rest this 1/16 to the left or the right, the next step would be top-hat tuning. Did you got the limbs replaced recently?....the deflection of the replacement limbs might not match the genuine set, and if so, top-hat tuning would be inevitable.

Eta: you have to do this tuning first, and then you can sight in the sight.

 

[Marble]

Hmm. Yet another thing to examine. Thanks!

Don't stress man. It's easy to confirm your bow is shooting correctly. Shoot it through some paper and take a look.

You can paper check your bow with a ladder, a piece of paper, tape and a target. Tuning will probably be up to someone else if needed.

The form thing can be checked by going through the school of nock by John dudley. Search YouTube. It really is a decent tutorial for almost all levels of archers.

Better to figure it out now then late summer when archery session is near full swing.

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[nphunter]

Seeing if your torquing the grip is easy, next time you shoot put slight pressure on the back side of the riser/grip with the inside of your thumb, the rest of your hand should be relaxed and the only pressure you should be feeling is on the meat of your thumb. Form issues can also come from a draw length either too long or too short, typically too long of a draw makes you overextended and causes you to pull the bow to the left when the shot breaks which causes left misses.

It isn't a spine issue, I can shoot 400's all the way up to 250's out of my 73lb, 28" draw bow, and they all group together out to 80 yards. If you were shooting a recurve spine is a huge deal, for compounds it really isn't at all, especially with field tips.

A couple more questions,
Why are you shooting a back tension release?
Do you know how to properly execute a shot with a hinge?
How long have you been shooting a bow?
How tall are you and what is your arm span?

Hinges are a great tool for learning to shoot a bow using proper back tension, they can also cause all kinds of issues if you don't know what you're doing and how to properly execute a shot with one.

 

[406unltd]

Make sure 2nd axis is good
Make sure facial pressure isn’t the cause
Is the bow tuned via any method?
Are the cams shimmed all the way to the right?
Where’s centershot?

 

[Billy Goat]

Are you certain you don't need to make an adjustment to the sight to gain more windage?

Is it a spot hogg? They have brackets you flip to keep adding yardage. I don't know that it's a form or tune problem, it sounds like it's a sight problem.

What is way left? I'd check centershot, then proceed from there.