Field points consistently hit left of aim point

[H80Hunter]

Every time I've run out of sight windage on a Mathews it's because it's not tuned at centershot. I'd think you'll either have a big tear through paper, or if you measure your centershot you'll be at like 15/16" the way it is now.

 

[Austin_Hall]

Is it possible your arrow rest has shifted? I recently had this exact issue with my v3 and that was the cause.

 

[fatlander]

Shoot a bare shaft and a fletch shaft at 10-20 yards. Post your results.


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[Duerrr]

Okay guys, I appreciate all the help. I figured it out. It was me. Please forgive me. Im a beginner. Thanks. I did learn some things.

Basically everything was still set up centershot. I was shooting 400 @ 55#, 340 @ 65#, and I eventually bought a dozen 300 spine at 70#.

Everything was going well at 70# except that arrows would land in an angle.

Every time I would paper tune it, it would be the same tail right/tail high tear.

Also, my Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL 2 pin would be almost set all the way left, but it is a pain to set all the 3 axes so I just left it the way it was as I was hitting decent groups/bullseyes.

I set out to remedy the angled landing and paper tear.

Paper tune indicated move rest high and set rest left.

This effectively gave me consistent left of center groups.

Also, my spines were too stiff, from messing with AA. I began cutting the length to satisfy the spine selector.

Hence all the chasing my tail and running in circles.

So I set my centershot back to 13/16ths and increased my poundage to 73.8 lbs.

Immediately the paper tune went well. No need to move the rest laterally.

I also started hitting bullseyes again. But my sight windage is set pretty close to all the way left again.

I think I will to readjust the 3 axes on the sight again and set the pin to the left more.

Then theres bare shaft and broadhead tuning.

Wish me luck.

Happy hunting All

 

[Duerrr]

Is it possible your arrow rest has shifted? I recently had this exact issue with my v3 and that was the cause.

Every time I've run out of sight windage on a Mathews it's because it's not tuned at centershot. I'd think you'll either have a big tear through paper, or if you measure your centershot you'll be at like 15/16" the way it is now.

You both are absolutely correct.

 

[Duerrr]

Following this. I shoot an older Mathews and was hitting groups like this with very minimal effort. IIRC this group was even shooting one arrow each at 5,10,15,20,25,30, and 35 yards, which explains the 4” vertical stringing. I’ve shot two arrows at the same distance and broken nocks off.

View attachment 377930

It suddenly started shooting 10-12” groups, and mostly to the right. talked to my hunting partner that has a lot of experience messing with bows and he assumed it was form.

I could concentrate on form and shrink them back to 6-8” groups but it’s never shot like it used to since. I’m thinking the string has stretched and its out of tune, but I haven’t paper tuned it or replace the string yet.

One other thing is occasionally it will have an arrow grouping with the rest of them, but it sticks out of the target at a 25-30 degree angle. Spine should be correct for my drawer weight, length, and head weight.

Not familiar with the bow.
Where do broadheads hit?

Could be cam lean, rest position, fletching contact, form, arrow spine, ect….

Have yet to attempt broadheads.

 

[bigW]

Also, my spines were too stiff, from messing with AA. I began cutting the length to satisfy the spine selector.

if you cut them you actually make them stiffer!!!!!

 

[Duerrr]

if you cut them you actually make them stiffer!!!!!

I misspoke. AA told me my spines were too weak. So I cut them to stiffen them up.

 

[fatlander]

Have yet to attempt broadheads.

Paper tuning is just a starting point to the tuning process. Many people don’t even bother to shoot through paper.

Shoot a bare shaft and a fletched shaft from 10 and 20 yards then post the pictures. That will indicate what you need to do get the bow tuned.


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[bigW]

Paper tuning is just a starting point to the tuning process. Many people don’t even bother to shoot through paper.

Shoot a bare shaft and a fletched shaft from 10 and 20 yards then post the pictures. That will indicate what you need to do get the bow tuned.


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to my knowledge this only helps (once the bow is paper tuned) to optimize the dynamic spine via e.g. shorten the arrow pending on how much the bare shat hits to the right, or weaken the arrow by loading the tip pending on how much the bare shaft hits to the left - yes, you could also manipulate the rest by moving it out of the perfect center shot, but IMO this defies the purpose of the whole exercise (matching the arrows perfectly to the bow for max. forgiveness).

Saying all this, I think it is all a little bit much for a beginner like the OP and I assume it is more for professional shooters, and average archers will gain only little (if) from this exercise.

 

[fatlander]

to my knowledge this only helps (once the bow is paper tuned) to optimize the dynamic spine via e.g. shorten the arrow pending on how much the bare shat hits to the right, or weaken the arrow by loading the tip pending on how much the bare shaft hits to the left - yes, you could also manipulate the rest by moving it out of the perfect center shot, but IMO this defies the purpose of the whole exercise (matching the arrows perfectly to the bow for max. forgiveness).

Saying all this, I think it is all a little bit much for a beginner like the OP and I assume it is more for professional shooters, and average archers will gain only little (if) from this exercise.

Did you listen to a little too much ranch fairy? Mathews sells top hat spacer kits for a reason.

Center shot isn’t dead set. 13/16” +/- 1/16” of an inch is where it should be. If he can’t get it to tune there he’s got two options: play with point weight (which still may not fix the issue). Or shim his cams.

He’s doing nothing but chasing his tail right now. Bare shafts don’t lie, they’ll diagnose the problem and we can easily prescribe a solution.


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[Billy Goat]

to my knowledge this only helps (once the bow is paper tuned) to optimize the dynamic spine via e.g. shorten the arrow pending on how much the bare shat hits to the right, or weaken the arrow by loading the tip pending on how much the bare shaft hits to the left - yes, you could also manipulate the rest by moving it out of the perfect center shot, but IMO this defies the purpose of the whole exercise (matching the arrows perfectly to the bow for max. forgiveness).

Saying all this, I think it is all a little bit much for a beginner like the OP and I assume it is more for professional shooters, and average archers will gain only little (if) from this exercise.

That's stick bow tuning. With a center shot compound you have a relatively wide range of spine you can use.

Paper is a starting point for most, gets them to where they will bareshaft/broadhead tune. Well, maybe not most. Most will pick up a bow from a shop that has "tuned" it, then get some mechanicals cause they fly like fieldpoints, then go stick stuff.

I find bareshaft tuning to be about the best way to tune modern compounds, and it's rare that I do anything with manipulating the front weight or cutting the shaft outside of where I decided I want it cut.


If you chasing left/rights with a compound and trying to adjust for stiff/weak you doing it wrong. Weak usually just shows up as inconsistent groups.

 

[406unltd]

That's stick bow tuning. With a center shot compound you have a relatively wide range of spine you can use.

Paper is a starting point for most, gets them to where they will bareshaft/broadhead tune. Well, maybe not most. Most will pick up a bow from a shop that has "tuned" it, then get some mechanicals cause they fly like fieldpoints, then go stick stuff.

I find bareshaft tuning to be about the best way to tune modern compounds, and it's rare that I do anything with manipulating the front weight or cutting the shaft outside of where I decided I want it cut.


If you chasing left/rights with a compound and trying to adjust for stiff/weak you doing it wrong. Weak usually just shows up as inconsistent groups.

I agree with that. If I haven’t been able to bareshaft tune my setup via any reasonable process involving shims and small rest adjustments, then and only then will I make changes to my arrow. Which I’ve never needed to do because I give myself room leaning stiff and having extra speed I’m willing to burn with tip weight if need be. Seems to me that if the archer is in the right general area regarding their arrow build and not specifically underspined by a good margin, it will tune just fine. Fall on the stiff side of things and broadheads tend to appreciate that as well.

 

[bigW]

Did you listen to a little too much ranch fairy? Mathews sells top hat spacer kits for a reason.

Center shot isn’t dead set. 13/16” +/- 1/16” of an inch is where it should be. If he can’t get it to tune there he’s got two options: play with point weight (which still may not fix the issue). Or shim his cams.

He’s doing nothing but chasing his tail right now. Bare shafts don’t lie, they’ll diagnose the problem and we can easily prescribe a solution.


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OP's last post mentions that he/she made a mistake, "overmoved" the rest and put it back to center shot, and while I watch RF from time to time for entertainment, I'm aware that this guy has limited knowledge about physics / bow physics (but doesn't need it for his spear distance / 16 yd shots, nor for his fan boys who drank the kool aid). And BTW: comparing to other manufactures shim / spacer tuning options the top-hats allow only for minimal adjustment (just no room - even the "extreme" setting allows just for approx. 1mm shift to the left or the right, works in most cases, but for sure there are some Mathews around that won't shoot bullet holes....)

....but all this is not really helpful for the OP...

 

[bigW]

If you chasing left/rights with a compound and trying to adjust for stiff/weak you doing it wrong. Weak usually just shows up as inconsistent groups.

you don't chase the left or right with the method @fatlander suggested, you chase the gap between the bare shaft and the fletched arrow for more forgiveness. Once you find the sweet spot / dynamic spine you adjust your sight.

Eta: I noticed I just graduated from "Junior Member" to "Member" so I must be right here

 

[fatlander]

OP's last post mentions that he/she made a mistake, "overmoved" the rest and put it back to center shot, and while I watch RF from time to time for entertainment, I'm aware that this guy has limited knowledge about physics / bow physics (but doesn't need it for his spear distance / 16 yd shots, nor for his fan boys who drank the kool aid). And BTW: comparing to other manufactures shim / spacer tuning options the top-hats allow only for minimal adjustment (just no room - even the "extreme" setting allows just for approx. 1mm shift to the left or the right, works in most cases, but for sure there are some Mathews around that won't shoot bullet holes....)

....but all this is not really helpful for the OP...

He’s fine on spine.

He’s got tuning issues. He needs to set his rest down the center and shoot a bareshaft. If a slight rest adjustment doesn’t clean it up, he needs to shim the cams.

I’ve witnessed countless bows that shot great through paper at 6ft but a broadhead wouldn’t fly past 30 yards.

I’ve yet to find a bow that had bareshafts and fletched arrows flying together at 20+ yards that wouldn’t group broadheads to at least 60. You’re making bareshaft tuning out to be some great feat, it’s not. It’s the easiest and fastest way to tune a bow. They don’t lie. Fletching through paper do.


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[Billy Goat]

you don't chase the left or right with the method @fatlander suggested, you chase the gap between the bare shaft and the fletched arrow for more forgiveness. Once you find the sweet spot / dynamic spine you adjust your sight.

Eta: I noticed I just graduated from "Junior Member" to "Member" so I must be right here

You definitely correct left/right impacts with bareshafts by shimming cams.

 

[bigW]

He’s fine on spine.

He’s got tuning issues. He needs to set his rest down the center and shoot a bareshaft. If a slight rest adjustment doesn’t clean it up, he needs to shim the cams.

I’ve witnessed countless bows that shot great through paper at 6ft but a broadhead wouldn’t fly past 30 yards.

I’ve yet to find a bow that had bareshafts and fletched arrows flying together at 20+ yards that wouldn’t group broadheads to at least 60. You’re making bareshaft tuning out to be some great feat, it’s not. It’s the easiest and fastest way to tune a bow. They don’t lie. Fletching through paper do.


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paper tuning doesn't lie either if you don't shoot just from the one distance that makes you lucky by accident, but from various (shorter) distances. The point is that at such short distances the fletching doesn't have a big impact, so for a bow in tune a fletched arrow should hit pretty much the same bullet hole as the bare shaft. Of course (and here I'm with you) shooting a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at a greater distance will amplify the smallest error margin and allow for even better fine tuning - I guess we leave it to the OP what kind of approach suits his/hers needs best....

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

This thread is making my head hurt. Glad my 1996 Browning and 2008 Hoyt split limb never had such crazy problems. When setting those two up if I ran out of windage it was always a rest problem (loose). However, these new fangled compounds sound like a PIA.

 

[fatlander]

paper tuning doesn't lie either if you don't shoot just from the one distance that makes you lucky by accident, but from various (shorter) distances. The point is that at such short distances the fletching doesn't have a big impact, so for a bow in tune a fletched arrow should hit pretty much the same bullet hole as the bare shaft. Of course (and here I'm with you) shooting a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at a greater distance will amplify the smallest error margin and allow for even better fine tuning - I guess we leave it to the OP what kind of approach suits his/hers needs best....

The problem with shooting fletched shafts at 2 short distances is you’ve got the arrow still trying to recover in the short end and the fletching starting to stabilize on the long end.


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