Broadheads consistently hitting left of FP, regardless of moving rest

[Billy Goat]

To my knowledge, there’s no yokes or shims since it is a parallel can system. There is a “Flexis” which I need to mess with. That’s about the only thing I can do.


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Probably can still swap limbs around, might tie some serving in the loop between the cams to push the string a little. Hopefully doesn't take all that.

 

[Ucsdryder]

The black series has shims. I’m not sure about the previous models.

 

[sneaky]

Nope, total opposite, at least from what I can tell. Basically no difference from reducing point weight and lowering draw weight. Bareshafts still way left at 20 and broadheads still left at 40. Tomorrow I’ll try to manipulate my grip and maybe tweak my arrow rest.


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Your bare shaft with the 100gr head and backed off limb bolts impacted the target straighter than the other bareshafts. Get a 250 spine arrow and try it. You're chasing your tail trying to get a weak arrow to shoot same POI as field points. If you want to stick with those arrows, either sight in for field points or bh and be done.

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[sneaky]

To my knowledge, there’s no yokes or shims since it is a parallel can system. There is a “Flexis” which I need to mess with. That’s about the only thing I can do.


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You can still change shims on those cams

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[sneaky]

The black series has shims. I’m not sure about the previous models.

Yes, previous models had them as well. I was a Prime dealer for several years and they've had shims since day 1 you can switch around. Usually though they were extremely easy to shoot a bullet hole with by eyeballing the rest and picking the appropriate spine and letting it rip.

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[Brendan]

I'm not seeing any of the pictures, were they posted here? But, if you're sure you're not getting contact, then it's move the rest to test and fine tune with the flex guard.

Centergy Hybrid had a very small amount of adjustment with shims, it wasn't much at all. The delrin ones with the bow are almost exactly the same size left/right and don't leave much adjustment room, so you'd have to order something. Mine was pretty tough to get tuned the way I wanted it without having the rest way out around 1" centershot or more. I did resort to swapping limbs and shims around which helped. Same experience with the Logic CT5 which is why I don't own either of those bows anymore. I would like to try a Black 5, but not going to be this year. One of the changes they made to the Black 5 was a new "Easy-Tune Shim system" so they can be shim adjusted much more easily.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm not seeing any of the pictures, were they posted here? But, if you're sure you're not getting contact, then it's move the rest to test and fine tune with the flex guard.

Centergy Hybrid had a very small amount of adjustment with shims, it wasn't much at all. The delrin ones with the bow are almost exactly the same size left/right and don't leave much adjustment room, so you'd have to order something. Mine was pretty tough to get tuned the way I wanted it without having the rest way out around 1" centershot or more. I did resort to swapping limbs and shims around which helped. Same experience with the Logic CT5 which is why I don't own either of those bows anymore. I would like to try a Black 5, but not going to be this year. One of the changes they made to the Black 5 was a new "Easy-Tune Shim system" so they can be shim adjusted much more easily.

He edited an earlier post to add in the pictures.

 

[5MilesBack]

Tomorrow I’ll try to manipulate my grip and maybe tweak my arrow rest.

Grip can make a huge difference. I can make an X in the target with bare shafts by just adjusting my grip a little bit each way.

 

[sneaky]

I've still got a bunch of shims if it gets that far

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[TheCougar]

I've still got a bunch of shims if it gets that far

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I appreciate it, thank you. I’ve been messing with my grip and rest. I’ve not had any positive changes yet. I’m going to post some pictures of my trip today.

 

[TheCougar]

My grip. I feel like the back of my hand is facing me rather than to the left. I was told that I should strive to get my knuckles at a 45 degree angle as well. I started another thread to see how guys how their bow and their wrist position. Perhaps I have poor form that is causing the BH to veer off from the FP.

 

[TheCougar]

Grip can make a huge difference. I can make an X in the target with bare shafts by just adjusting my grip a little bit each way.

I posted pics of my grip. Let me know what you think.

 

[X-file]

Out of everything in this thread, I don’t believe that I’ve read anything about the third axis on the sight. If your sight is just mildly canted one direction you would get the results that you are seeing. I would recommend sighting at 40 and then watching your left right misses under 40 and over 40. I fought a problem like this for a long time until I figured it out


The second issue is that you could be slightly over drawing. With limb stops the bow can and will slightly rotate in your hand if you over draw. Though it may not be noticeable to the shooter the minimal rotation of the bow could throw your arrow off that much at 50.

Try 60 and 70 as well. See how much more dramatic the issue is.

You could also have a slight cam lean issue one one of the cams. I know they say that prime doesn’t have Much of that issue due to the design but it is possible

My recommendation would be to walk back. Start at 20 and use your 20 yard pin until you get back to 50 and see where the arrows land. If in a straight line then not a tuning issue. Then do it again using different pins. If you are hitting to one direction using multiple pins then it is a sight issue


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[Brendan]

Hand should be completely "dead" or relaxed. Looks to me like you're pulling your knuckles back to you and putting tension in the hand. I can visibly see my pins move and settle when I let my hand relax doing this.

But, can't find it above. You were getting a broadhead left / bare shaft left. Have you tried cranking the flex guard in all the way, and moving the rest left? How far?

First time I tuned my Centergy Hybrid, the rest was outside 1" to get it to tune, pretty sure I ended up around 7/8" or 15/16". It bugged the crap out of me seeing my arrow pointed left, but it worked.

 

[4rcgoat]

Have you tried different draw lengths? 1/2 inch either way could make some difference.
My 2 cents.

 

[TheCougar]

Have you tried different draw lengths? 1/2 inch either way could make some difference.
My 2 cents.

Nope. Prime requires different cams to adjust DL. I’ve always shot 29” DL, never had a problem. Not saying it’s not the issue, but that is the last resort.

 

[DB29]

I just fixed the same issue with my bow. I would start with adjusting the flexis. My guess is you will see a big improvement really quickly. You may need to do slight adjustments to your rest after getting the flexis in the right spot. How much clearance do you have between your fletching and cables at rest?

 

[TheCougar]

I just fixed the same issue with my bow. I would start with adjusting the flexis. My guess is you will see a big improvement really quickly. You may need to do slight adjustments to your rest after getting the flexis in the right spot. How much clearance do you have between your fletching and cables at rest?

I’ve got enough clearance. I ran some clearance tests last night and didn’t find any marks indicating fletching contact. I can tighten it down more than I can loosen it. Should I tighten or loosen it?

 

[DB29]

I’ve got enough clearance. I ran some clearance tests last night and didn’t find any marks indicating fletching contact. I can tighten it down more than I can loosen it. Should I tighten or loosen it?

I don’t think it is a clearance issue either. Just curious because mine had too much clearance. All issues cleared up when I went closer to the cables, leaving only about an 1/8th in clearance.

Mine resolved when I moved towards the paper tear, but I would try moving it both ways to see where it gets better.

Before I got my cables set properly I couldn’t get the tear to switch from right to left no matter how far I moved my rest. Once my cables were set, I could set my rest to center and get bullet holes, then move it left and right of center and the tear would change.

 

[ncavi8tor]

Get your fingertips off of the front of the riser and decrease your palm pressure in the grip. I can walk my bareshafts left and right by using more and less bottom palm pressure. You gotta find the sweet spot on your grip. My .02 cents.

NC

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