Enclosed trailer base camp

[Sully_44]

I’m in the market for a trailer that can do a little bit of everything. I’d like to be able to haul a 4 seater Can Am. I’d also like to add a window or two and sleep 4 adults. Down the road I’d like to put a small kitchen in the nose. Those of you that use enclosed trailers for camping/ hunting, let’s see your rigs. And what are some things you’d do again or avoid?

 

[11boo]

I think that’s a good idea, many have done it.

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/enclosed-vs-utility-trailer.385720/

 

[wapitibob]

They get hot inside quick; add windows and a fan.

 

[180ls1]

Sounds like you may just want to jump to a toyhauler.

Having a built in fuel station and generator that you don't have to worry about getting stolen is nice. Along with the rest of the easy setup and comfort.

 

[Dezurtrat]

Walk-in Cooler.. Trailer Build

This thread is going to take a little while to complete, I have a bunch of photos to upload and details i want to describe so I will try my best to add everything as fast as possible that way everything flows evenly. I've been wanting to share this for a while and contribute to Rokslide, I was...

rokslide.com

Here's mine, it's still a work in progress but, might give you some ideas
FB has a handful of groups that i belong to, enclosed trailer camper conversions, cargo trailer toy hauler conversions, cargo trailer conversion builds help and questions.
There's a lot of information on them

 

[Agross]

Walk-in Cooler.. Trailer Build

This thread is going to take a little while to complete, I have a bunch of photos to upload and details i want to describe so I will try my best to add everything as fast as possible that way everything flows evenly. I've been wanting to share this for a while and contribute to Rokslide, I was...

rokslide.com

Here's mine, it's still a work in progress but, might give you some ideas
FB has a handful of groups that i belong to, enclosed trailer camper conversions, cargo trailer toy hauler conversions, cargo trailer conversion builds help and questions.
There's a lot of information on them

What a cool build/thread. Thanks for sharing. That is a badass setup

 

[LitenFast]

I picked up a tandem axle 7x14 enclosed with a 18” v nose last summer for this same reason. I used it last Sept in CO for archery elk. I ordered it late so it showed up about a week before I left so I put some e track in and that was it.

I hauled my full size Polaris Ranger but not crew cab, it’s 10ft long almost exactly so I had 4ft in front of the Ranger, plus the v nose open for coolers and gear. We also fit some things in the bed of the Ranger, and fuel cans and milk crates with misc gear along side it. For me and my cousin we had plenty of room and once we reached wherever was temporary base camp, we pulled the Ranger out and slept on folding cots. We ended up bouncing around to a few units so we slept in it 4-5 nights even though we were primarily backpacking hunting. We slept like babies and it was really fast to set up and take down.

I prefer to backpack hunt so it is likely to end up as a quick set up base camp that can haul a Utv for getting up forest roads when the hunt lends itself to it. I drive from WI so it also will get used for nights on the road occasionally as well. I also want to keep it easy to use for other things like hauling lumber, ice fishing gear etc.

One note, my 21 f150 super crew with 5.0 and 3.73 gears and slightly bigger than stock e rated tires got about 9.5 mpg pulling it to CO and back, loaded it was probably only about 5000#. Campers and enclosed trailers just catch a lot of wind, I get better mileage pulling a much heavier farm tractor on a car hauler trailer. If I was doing it again I’d probably get a 7x16 as I don’t think think the extra 2 feet of length would make it much worse.

Before this fall I’m planning on adding:
-Insulation on ceiling, we were warm enough down to freezing nights but should draw 2nd season this year. Walls are already sheathed on inside and I don’t think need to be insulated unless late season is in the cards some day.
-Electrical system to run diesel heater, a few lights and some usb outlets. Either power station or diy battery set up
-1-2 rv windows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtnbound]

I’m in the market for a trailer that can do a little bit of everything. I’d like to be able to haul a 4 seater Can Am. I’d also like to add a window or two and sleep 4 adults. Down the road I’d like to put a small kitchen in the nose. Those of you that use enclosed trailers for camping/ hunting, let’s see your rigs. And what are some things you’d do again or avoid?

Spend the money on spray foam insulation especially on the ceiling,it makes a big difference for condensation control.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sully_44]

Sounds like you may just want to jump to a toyhauler.

Having a built in fuel station and generator that you don't have to worry about getting stolen is nice. Along with the rest of the easy setup and comfort.

I’ve looked at them, I just like the idea of being able to use it as a job trailer or utility trailer as well. At this point, I’ve got my heart set on an enclosed conversion.

 

[longrangelead]

I built one about 10 years ago. I originally pulled the inside plywood and insulated it between the steel frames of the walls, ceiling, drop gate, door and underneath the floor.
after a couple below zero hunts, I again pulled the inside skin, furred out the steel framing with wood and added another ¾" insulation. more insulation is great.
Consider having 500 ½" screw heads holding the inside skin on screwed into the steel frame. The amount of cold conducted by just those screws is simply amazing! by having all those screws screwed into wood was huge in itself.
after furring out the inside and adding more wiring/lights, I added one of those 3k diesel heaters from Amazon for $100. They are indirect so they're indoor safe. because they are forced air, the air in the trailer is circulated and is a much more even heat where before I was using a buddy heater and the air would stratify to the point we could hardly breathe on the top bunk and water on the floor would freeze.
doing it over, I would screw sheet metal to the bottom of the floor framing, pull the inside floor, spray foam it from the inside and re-install the floor. This would make a tighter insulation and protect the foam from gravel and ice chunks.

 

[Sully_44]

I built one about 10 years ago. I originally pulled the inside plywood and insulated it between the steel frames of the walls, ceiling, drop gate, door and underneath the floor.
after a couple below zero hunts, I again pulled the inside skin, furred out the steel framing with wood and added another ¾" insulation. more insulation is great.
Consider having 500 ½" screw heads holding the inside skin on screwed into the steel frame. The amount of cold conducted by just those screws is simply amazing! by having all those screws screwed into wood was huge in itself.
after furring out the inside and adding more wiring/lights, I added one of those 3k diesel heaters from Amazon for $100. They are indirect so they're indoor safe. because they are forced air, the air in the trailer is circulated and is a much more even heat where before I was using a buddy heater and the air would stratify to the point we could hardly breathe on the top bunk and water on the floor would freeze.
doing it over, I would screw sheet metal to the bottom of the floor framing, pull the inside floor, spray foam it from the inside and re-install the floor. This would make a tighter insulation and protect the foam from gravel and ice chunks.

Full of good ideas! Thank you!

 

[Blockcaver]

Look into ordering the trailer from a dealer:

Get it insulated, with a RV type manway door that key locks outside and flip locks inside and has a screen door. Also get a couple screened windows. And rear stabilizer jacks. Order the height you want that fits your ATV or SxS. Get the rear door style you want. Get the ground clearance you want (different Dexter axle heights were available) along with specifying the tires plus a spare.


I did all that 11 years ago, spec’d out a Cargo Mate that cost me a bit over $1,000 more than the bare stock trailer. Fits my old RZR perfectly and is my spring bear hunting home often for up to 16 days over May. Works great and has made many long distance trips moving household items 1500 miles one way, going on 1,000 mile away caribou/moose hunts, etc.

 

[longrangelead]

I broke the springs on my "3500 lb" axle so I replaced them with 5000 lb springs. I wish I had ordered it with a 5k axle too.
I built a swing out arm for butchering whole animals and a fold out meat pole for hanging quarters. a led strip is really nice when it cold and dark.
I put some form of lights on all sides and eye bolts on the door side so I could easily attach a tarp for rainy days.

 

[longrangelead]

I attached the fuel tanks for the heater to the front. I put ¾" plywood backing inside so the mounting screws had plenty to grab.
the intake/exhaust is mounted to the back of a fender to protect it from objects while driving and ice/mud accumulation. I used a generic intake filter and made an aluminum housing to protect the intake filter from rain.
The only problem I've had with the diesel heater is once the trailer is up to temp, the heater slows way down so it just maintains heat. This soots up the glow plug and exhaust. I found out the hard way, you have to turn it up and run it full blast for about 5 minutes to get it hot and blow out the exhaust. since doing that, I've never had an issue.
If it is making white smoke trying to start and then shuts down and says "ERR" on the controller, the exhaust is plugged. I had to take the intake/exhaust pipes off and blow out the heater and exhaust pipe with compressed air. fortunately I had a buddy heater with for backup. I also carry a tiny 1500 watt 110v heater as double backup that runs off the geny.

I put two 100 watt solar panels on the roof with a controller/regulator inside hooked to two marine batteries that run everything 12v. I also have a battery tender for each battery that stays attached and plugged in so they automatically assist any time the geny is running. I have 12v and 110v lights and charge ports inside so we always have light/power in case batteries or geny dies.
in 10 years I've had 1 of 2 batteries quit mid trip and had the geny quit 2 days before going home. I tried to set up redundant systems where I could.

I put a small chest freezer in that gets used as a kitchen counter and a fridge next to that. We have a small microwave that fits on top of the fridge. beside the fridge I made a place for two 18" x 32" poly cutting boards for processing game at camp.

For early hunts we usually start with the freezer full of ice. as we wack n stack, the meat goes in coolers with ice. once it's cold, it goes in unscented kitchen trash bags in the freezer. the bags keep the meat from freezing into one giant block and makes room in the coolers for more meat. for mid season with cold nights and late season, we just hang the meat making sure it's shaded.

Recently we painted one inside wall and ceiling white to brighten the interior. I mounted a tiny USB projector under a shelf on the opposite side. now we download a few movies in case we get weather bound or long cold November evenings when going to bed at 5 isn't appealing.
it might sound silly, but I hunt with my wife more often than not. having a few creature comforts keeps her happy which allows us to stay out longer.

 

[CMF]

I've been on the road 3+ years now with a 42' fifth wheel. Too big to get into the woods most places so we usually base camp with a tent or backpack.
Once we get back into a house I'm going to build a hunting/traveling toy hauler style camper out of an enclosed gooseneck. You get more room for the same overall length and I like the way my fifth wheel pulls vs a bumper pull.

I broke the springs on my "3500 lb" axle so I replaced them with 5000 lb springs. I wish I had ordered it with a 5k axle too.

This. We've broke 5 springs, multiple equalizers, and bent spring hangers. I'm at 13400 on 14000 axles(2x7k) , but that is not enough margin for some of the shtty roads in this country. I will make sure my axles don't see more than 80% of their rating on the next one. My next rig will have shocks on the axles and some type of air/shock on the hitch as well. Better shock absorption will also help prevent tearing up stuff inside.
Also, enough solar and battery to minimize generator time. Enough water to make it a week or two ~150gallons. A chest freezer.

 

[mt terry d]

V-nosed 16' enclosed with rear ramp and side door.
Insulated walls and roof with 1" foil backed rigid insulation
Cheap luan panels to contain ceiling insulation
Painted all interior panels white
Cubbys in front to hold misc. and store Coleman stoves.
About 20 hooks for clothes & stuff around top perimeter
Added a window in left rear and small window in door.
Two fold down bunks on left side w/ memory foam mattresses
4 fold down counters on right. Stick on mirror for shaving.
3 rows E-track in floor (for tie-downs)
Mr Heater for warmth. 12V fan for extra air circulation
Deep cycle battery instead of puny factory e-brake battery
Carpet remnants on floor.
LED lighting. Cigarette lighter power port. USB ports
12x12 canopy for added shade/rain protection.
Mornings are always chilly in the mountains so I put
the heater near my cot and when I wake up I don't even get
out of my bag to start it up. Same in the evening just reversed
Makes things comfortable well below freezing.

I cant say what's invested but it's cheap. Expensive part other
than trailer purchase was the two windows. Most everything
else is just labor and that part is fun.


As versatile as can be.Have used for work ( construction material/tools),
bike trips, camping with wife taking her kayak and my dirt bike. She's not
fond of discomfort and is very happy with it.
Me, I could live in it.