Enclosed trailer base camp

Sully_44

FNG
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
80
I’m in the market for a trailer that can do a little bit of everything. I’d like to be able to haul a 4 seater Can Am. I’d also like to add a window or two and sleep 4 adults. Down the road I’d like to put a small kitchen in the nose. Those of you that use enclosed trailers for camping/ hunting, let’s see your rigs. And what are some things you’d do again or avoid?
 

180ls1

WKR
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
1,368
Sounds like you may just want to jump to a toyhauler.

Having a built in fuel station and generator that you don't have to worry about getting stolen is nice. Along with the rest of the easy setup and comfort.
 

Dezurtrat

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
176
Location
Oregon
Here's mine, it's still a work in progress but, might give you some ideas
FB has a handful of groups that i belong to, enclosed trailer camper conversions, cargo trailer toy hauler conversions, cargo trailer conversion builds help and questions.
There's a lot of information on them
 

Agross

WKR
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
1,920
Location
Michigan
Here's mine, it's still a work in progress but, might give you some ideas
FB has a handful of groups that i belong to, enclosed trailer camper conversions, cargo trailer toy hauler conversions, cargo trailer conversion builds help and questions.
There's a lot of information on them
What a cool build/thread. Thanks for sharing. That is a badass setup
 

LitenFast

WKR
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
431
Location
Ellison Bay, WI
I picked up a tandem axle 7x14 enclosed with a 18” v nose last summer for this same reason. I used it last Sept in CO for archery elk. I ordered it late so it showed up about a week before I left so I put some e track in and that was it.

I hauled my full size Polaris Ranger but not crew cab, it’s 10ft long almost exactly so I had 4ft in front of the Ranger, plus the v nose open for coolers and gear. We also fit some things in the bed of the Ranger, and fuel cans and milk crates with misc gear along side it. For me and my cousin we had plenty of room and once we reached wherever was temporary base camp, we pulled the Ranger out and slept on folding cots. We ended up bouncing around to a few units so we slept in it 4-5 nights even though we were primarily backpacking hunting. We slept like babies and it was really fast to set up and take down.

I prefer to backpack hunt so it is likely to end up as a quick set up base camp that can haul a Utv for getting up forest roads when the hunt lends itself to it. I drive from WI so it also will get used for nights on the road occasionally as well. I also want to keep it easy to use for other things like hauling lumber, ice fishing gear etc.

One note, my 21 f150 super crew with 5.0 and 3.73 gears and slightly bigger than stock e rated tires got about 9.5 mpg pulling it to CO and back, loaded it was probably only about 5000#. Campers and enclosed trailers just catch a lot of wind, I get better mileage pulling a much heavier farm tractor on a car hauler trailer. If I was doing it again I’d probably get a 7x16 as I don’t think think the extra 2 feet of length would make it much worse.

Before this fall I’m planning on adding:
-Insulation on ceiling, we were warm enough down to freezing nights but should draw 2nd season this year. Walls are already sheathed on inside and I don’t think need to be insulated unless late season is in the cards some day.
-Electrical system to run diesel heater, a few lights and some usb outlets. Either power station or diy battery set up
-1-2 rv windows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mtnbound

WKR
Joined
Nov 8, 2016
Messages
556
Location
N. Idaho
I’m in the market for a trailer that can do a little bit of everything. I’d like to be able to haul a 4 seater Can Am. I’d also like to add a window or two and sleep 4 adults. Down the road I’d like to put a small kitchen in the nose. Those of you that use enclosed trailers for camping/ hunting, let’s see your rigs. And what are some things you’d do again or avoid?

Spend the money on spray foam insulation especially on the ceiling,it makes a big difference for condensation control.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
Sully_44

Sully_44

FNG
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
80
Sounds like you may just want to jump to a toyhauler.

Having a built in fuel station and generator that you don't have to worry about getting stolen is nice. Along with the rest of the easy setup and comfort.
I’ve looked at them, I just like the idea of being able to use it as a job trailer or utility trailer as well. At this point, I’ve got my heart set on an enclosed conversion.
 

longrangelead

FNG
Shoot2HuntU
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
72
Location
MT
I built one about 10 years ago. I originally pulled the inside plywood and insulated it between the steel frames of the walls, ceiling, drop gate, door and underneath the floor.
after a couple below zero hunts, I again pulled the inside skin, furred out the steel framing with wood and added another ¾" insulation. more insulation is great.
Consider having 500 ½" screw heads holding the inside skin on screwed into the steel frame. The amount of cold conducted by just those screws is simply amazing! by having all those screws screwed into wood was huge in itself.
after furring out the inside and adding more wiring/lights, I added one of those 3k diesel heaters from Amazon for $100. They are indirect so they're indoor safe. because they are forced air, the air in the trailer is circulated and is a much more even heat where before I was using a buddy heater and the air would stratify to the point we could hardly breathe on the top bunk and water on the floor would freeze.
doing it over, I would screw sheet metal to the bottom of the floor framing, pull the inside floor, spray foam it from the inside and re-install the floor. This would make a tighter insulation and protect the foam from gravel and ice chunks.
 
OP
Sully_44

Sully_44

FNG
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
80
I built one about 10 years ago. I originally pulled the inside plywood and insulated it between the steel frames of the walls, ceiling, drop gate, door and underneath the floor.
after a couple below zero hunts, I again pulled the inside skin, furred out the steel framing with wood and added another ¾" insulation. more insulation is great.
Consider having 500 ½" screw heads holding the inside skin on screwed into the steel frame. The amount of cold conducted by just those screws is simply amazing! by having all those screws screwed into wood was huge in itself.
after furring out the inside and adding more wiring/lights, I added one of those 3k diesel heaters from Amazon for $100. They are indirect so they're indoor safe. because they are forced air, the air in the trailer is circulated and is a much more even heat where before I was using a buddy heater and the air would stratify to the point we could hardly breathe on the top bunk and water on the floor would freeze.
doing it over, I would screw sheet metal to the bottom of the floor framing, pull the inside floor, spray foam it from the inside and re-install the floor. This would make a tighter insulation and protect the foam from gravel and ice chunks.
Full of good ideas! Thank you!
 
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