Elk Rifle Suggestions

Joined
Feb 17, 2017
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If you want to buy a new rifle, a bolt action .223 and a 1000 round case of ammo will go a lot further in increasing your chances of killing a bull with a rifle than buying a 300 win mag when you’ve already got an ‘06.
 

452b264

Lil-Rokslider
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Nov 11, 2018
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AZ
I remember back when the 30/06 was considered a big gun. Times...

I can't think of anything I wouldn't shoot with 30/06 and 165gr Partition. I suggest a top shelf scope and mount for the /06. Shoot the snot out of it to get ready for the trip.

One shot from a braked rifle without hearing protection causes permanent hearing damage. I'm talking likely ears ringing for the rest of your life. Most people would not let a bull elk slip away on an out of state hunt because they couldn't get ear plugs in fast enough.

One shot from an un braked 300 and you will never do that again. None of mine ever had muzzle brakes on them and I just dont need a large magnum to take game. You could offer me 3 or 4 300s and I would keep my 06.
 

pchrisla

Lil-Rokslider
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Ok so if I stick with my 30-06 why would I need a new stock and why would one consider re-barreling? Also, what would you coinsder the max effective distance and what bullet and scope would be recommeneded?

Thank You!

I said this because depending on the weight, wood stock, groups etc you might want to make some upgrades to be more effective on your backcountry hunt.
 

tntrker

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I went with my Savage 116 30-06, without any fear, for shots out to 450 yrds. The only reason I limited myself to 450yrds is due to the ballistics of a 30-06 past that. 180gr Nosler Accubonds worked well for mine. I'm looking at a 300wsm now for a range past 450yrds, since I practice and I'm comfortable out past that. You have enough gun as it is, unless you just want another reason to buy another gun. If you have good glass on it keep what you have, as glass will make big differences between a deer to Elk hunt..Scope My scope was Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44. I was very happy with it and will buy in again for my 300. The CDS dial on them takes the guess work out as well on yardage shots. Just put the time in at the range to confirm it's/your ability.
 
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Joined
Oct 24, 2015
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Does one shot from a rifle without a brake not cause any damage?

It actually does. While it’s not as damaging as a brake, it still causes irreversible damage.

Me personally, I’ve taken to braking all of my rifles. I already will not take a shot without hearing protection, so why not? I have a few that have thread protectors, if I happened to be hunting with someone who didnt want to bring hearing protection I’d just take one of those rifles.
 

slvrslngr

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What rifle/scope is your 30-06? Not to dissuade you from buying a new rifle, but if you shoot the -06 well, just take it. I’d find a 180 bullet/load that it likes and go hunting. I like light weight rifles for mountain hunting as much as the next guy but I’ve never once considered rifle weight a make or break issue on a hunt. Personally, I’d use that $1000 budget on practice ammo, some really good boots and/or some good binos, that would be money well spent.
 
OP
B

BCD

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I would need a new scope for my 30-06. Any suggestions on what scope and stock to look at?

Thanks!
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

WKR
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I've shot my braked 300wsm w/o ear pro twice and it sucks, after the first time I said I'd never do it again, second time a bull elk made me do it. :p But seriously I REALLY will try to never do it again. It hurts and ears ring hard for a long while after. My ears already permanently ring so I can't comment on whether one shot would cause someone's that don't to do so.

I started carrying plugs with me now and it was so nice after dropping 3 antelope in a row to pop them out and have no louder ear ringing going on (as noted I always have a low ringing unfortunately).

I'm really not sue what kind of elk hunting I will be doing just yet as I'm searching for outfitters. The only rifle I currently own that I would consider for elk is an older Remington 700 BDL in 30-06 but I'm thinking I will want something bigger for elk. Thanks for your responses and please keep them comiing!

Man I go through this chat all the time with folks back home (I'm from MI) when they start getting elk thoughts in mind, never mind they've never shot a rifle past 100yds mind you but they've "heard" they need a boomer. Unless/until you've got the skill and practice to realistically shoot game over lets just say 500yd you don't need to be looking past your 30-06 in terms of horsepower. Use a caliber that is comfortable for you to shoot and shoot it a lot, learn it well, go hunt and have fun. If you develop the skill (or have it already) for longer range then take a look at some other calibers if desired but there is nothing wise about getting a gun that you'll not enjoy shooting enough to master it.

- - - Updated - - -

I would need a new scope for my 30-06. Any suggestions on what scope and stock to look at?

Thanks!

Budget? Also are you going to dial yardage? (Some scopes that hold zero find don't necessarily dial consistently)
 
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howl

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Does one shot from a rifle without a brake not cause any damage?

Yes, but not on the order of with a brake. It's a big difference.

And most people I know hunt without hearing protection. So discussing THAT damages goes nowhere.
 

davsco

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I would need a new scope for my 30-06. Any suggestions on what scope and stock to look at?

Thanks!

look in the optics sub-forum here, very first one, nikon fx1000 review. i have the 4-16x50 and like it, seems to be a pretty good scope for elk hunting, nice wide magnification range for near and far.

frankly by the time you buy another stock and have it fitted/inletted/bedded you're talking a fair amount of $$. assuming your bdl shoots good, i'd be tempted to just buy something like a tikka in the $800 range in a caliber you want and be done.
 

howl

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On scope, a 2-10x or 2-12x, etc. You want at least 50' at 100 yards field of view on the low end. Elk are also killed at short range and can fill up a scope in a hurry. Don't skimp on the mounts: go quality Picatinny, double dovetail, DNZ, or Conetrol for something classy.

A synthetic stock isn't really necessary if you bed your wooden one and seal the wood on all surfaces including under the pad, etc. It wouldn't hurt if you just want one, though.
 
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Does one shot from a rifle without a brake not cause any damage?

Yes, but not on the order of with a brake. It's a big difference.

And most people I know hunt without hearing protection. So discussing THAT damages goes nowhere.

Agreed. Even a 10 decibel increase is HUGE. Here’s a chart I’ve kept for awhile to show my buddies that shoot with brakes on:

ADE1DCC2-2C1C-41F9-A43B-AF6655F4E423.jpg

Might have to pinch to zoom in, but shows muzzle brakes from 17 different companies. It refers to it as “perceived loudness” because the microphone recording the noise level was 64.5” BEHIND the muzzle. That’s like someone standing behind you - farther than the shooter would be. Can you imagine standing beside the muzzle? Like when you’re at the range and the guy on the bench next to you is giving everyone on the line a “concussion” from his muzzle brake! They are great at the range, but I take them off when hunting. My 2 cents...
 

Sled

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i like the 30's but as a previous poster said, they just aren't a necessity for elk unless you're prone to take poor probability shots. if you're the "anchor them" type of shooter then you might want as much bullet and recoil that you can handle to break legs. if you can handle an elk moving a few feet then a simple double lung kills them just fine with a lite caliber and quality bullet. i've found my 270wsm to be more than adequate with several types of projectiles (berger ttsx, nosler accubond, partition, ballistic tip and hornady interbond). the recoil on my tikka t3 is more than tolerable with the 150gr bullets and hardly noticable with the 130's. i can shoot box after box without developing a sore shoulder and keep the accuracy high. shots on elk are limited to under 600 and typically in the 100-400 yard range for me. at that range i've considered dropping to a 6.5cm and going with a lighter firearm like the kimber.

personally, i'd ditch the remington and buy a synthetic tikka as a nock around hunting rifle that shoots tight groups. i sold all my remingtons and bought a couple tikkas for me and the wife as hunting guns. i still have some safe queens but the tikkas get the job done well without crying about the price or carry damage. no need to replace the stock, barrel or trigger. pick your favorite caliber and go.
 
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Athol, Idaho
In my experience not all Elk are created equal. Cows and immature bulls can be killed with well placed shots from the 30-06 or 308 size calibers with well constructed modern bullets. Big mature herd bulls are another type of Elk, they are tough, strong and big, with a determined will to live. I consider the 300 WM or the 300 RUM with premium bullets the appropriate caliber for herd bull Elk.

Thanks.
 
Joined
May 10, 2015
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Timberline
The higher the BC of the bullet, the better downrange performance. This is why a .270 with high BC bullet (i.e. 150 gr Nos ABLR) can out perform a 30 cal at 500 yds. The point is, bullet selection means more than bore diameter.

Get a good BC bullet for your '06, put on a clear image 3x9 scope with a BDC recticle and you will kill every elk on the mountain that you put a well placed shot on.

Have killed to many elk sized animals in the past with .277 and .284 cal rifles to be told any differnet. Hell, even a 25-06 will dump a cow at 300 yds...
 
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