Easton HIT brass install tips

[MT257]

Looking to install Easton hit brass inserts. I don’t wanna seat them too shallow or too deep. I’ve read one can use waxed fp to install them is this true? I know the brass doesn’t have a breather hole and will have nocks pulled when installing the inserts. Any tips are appreciated.

 

[doc holiday13]

The little plastic tool that easton sends with the inserts will work just fine for you and let the arrows sit on a flat surface while they cure.. Pull the nocks before inserts are put in

 

[MT257]

The little plastic tool that easton sends with the inserts will work just fine for you and let the arrows sit on a flat surface while they cure.. Pull the nocks before inserts are put in

I brought the level out and the surface I was going to lay them on is in between the two lines on the level. Is that level enough? Only reason I’m asking is I just got done with a set of arrows and some how didn’t get them seat right. Only time I’ve had this issue. Just don’t wanna ruin any more arrows.

 

[5MilesBack]

You shouldn't have any trouble just using the green tool with the HIT's. But definitely take the nocks out........and throw those away....LOL. The only nocks I'll use in .204" arrows are Bohning A nocks.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Green tool and hot melt. Easy.

 

[LONE HUNTER]

lancaster archery supply has a youtube video if you are worried about it. Otherwise, keep things clean as possible, install with green tool and clean that SOB after ever install..... and pull the knocks otherwise it could build pressure inside the arrow and push your inserts back out a bit...

 

[WI in the west]

The forst set i did i think i had issues with the green tool suctioning the insert and slipping it forward. Since then ive done 4 dozen more and ive been scraping a line on the rings of the green tool on one side to prevent that. Ive also after initially pushing them in and slowly pulling the tool out ill slowly go back in and do ot again. Im not sure if thats all necessary but i havent had an issue since that forst batch. And eveb the forst batch was only 2 that had a slight issue.

 

[Marble]

I like to take a q tip and clean the inside of the arrow to make it free of epoxy.

Make sure you use the little chamfer tool on the end of the arrow.

I also like to clean the inside of the arrow with q tip prior to putting in the HIT.

Lay flat for 24 hours.

Use the epoxy they send with the arrows.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Jordan]

Don’t know if it helps at all but I twist the green plunger as I pull it out. I’ll check them after I finish all of them as well, Eastons stuff is a slow cure epoxy and I have been able to fix any that have moved.

 

[Zac]

Definitely get one of these

HIT Insert Installation Tool

Meticulously engineered HIT Inserts are only effective if the tool used to install them is equally as precise. So we machine these Hit Insert Tools to the same exacting standards Iron Will is known for. The front of the tool is designed to seat inserts at the proper arrow depth for Standard...

www.ironwilloutfitters.com

 

[butcherboy]

I use the tool Iron Will sells. I like it quite a bit mostly because I use low temp hot melt glue. The glue holds incredibly well and super easy to take an insert out.

 

[4rcgoat]

You shouldn't have any trouble just using the green tool with the HIT's. But definitely take the nocks out........and throw those away....LOL. The only nocks I'll use in .204" arrows are Bohning A nocks.

I do exactly the same thing, x nocks are too tight on all of my strings.

 

[5MilesBack]

I do exactly the same thing, x nocks are too tight on all of my strings.

The X nocks never "snap" onto my strings, they "smoosh" onto them, and then form two flat sides on the serving.

 

[MT257]

Definitely get one of these

HIT Insert Installation Tool

Meticulously engineered HIT Inserts are only effective if the tool used to install them is equally as precise. So we machine these Hit Insert Tools to the same exacting standards Iron Will is known for. The front of the tool is designed to seat inserts at the proper arrow depth for Standard...

www.ironwilloutfitters.com

That is what I used when the inserts got seated too deep.

 

[Beendare]

Delete

 

[RC_]

The tool from Easton has worked fine for me and I pretty much just follow their instructions. Don't overdo it with the epoxy, wipe the tool every arrow or two to prevent excess epoxy build up. I seat with one end of the tool and then use the other to test that it stayed seated.

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

More than anything else pull the nocks, dont make it out to be more than it is and let them set flat for at LEAST 24 hours. I agree with the above, clean the green tool between every arrow.

Square/chamfer and clean that carbon dust out the shaft before you install. Some people square and chamfer after and this takes off a bit of arrow in the process and could be the different between your fp/bh seating properly and having a small gap.

I get the dozen seated with the green tool, lay them flat and use a flashlight to make sure they are all seated at the same depth. I do an extra step and q tip the inside of the shaft to remove extra glue from that bit of arrow between the end of the shaft and the brass hit, careful not to touch them, but this is an unecessary step - I just notice the field points screw in and out a bit easier.

Ive been using axis 5mm for a long time and have never had an issue using the supplied epoxy.

 

[MT257]

Put me down as never having a problem in decades of making up Axis arrows and following their instructions…..

This is the first time for me. In the past I’ve had zero issues. This is my first time using HIT inserts without a breather hole. I’ve done 7-8 dozen no issues but inserts with no breather hole is the difference imo.

 

[KineKilla]

Lots of good input here already.

I use two part epoxy for mine, personally. The gorilla glue epoxy not the Easton epoxy. I have heard the Easton stuff is great and gives more working time.

My tips would be to use the HIT tool that easton provides. Clean both sides with alcohol after every arrow.

I push them in nice and slow, when it is all but 3/16" in, I clean the excess glue off. Finish pushing it the rest of the way in, then twist it a few times while it is all the way in. I then pull it out nice and slow and try to tweak it just a bit right as the rings are about to pop out of the shaft. This helps break the vacuum that can happen.

I then flip the tool over to the clean side and re-insert, twist and remove again.

Clean the tool and repeat.

Lots of success with the HIT inserts.

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk

 

[cured_ham]

This may be lazy but just hot melting the entire piece in (insert screwed into head) seems to have been the best thing for me. Dip the shaft in boiling water for a 10-20 seconds and pull it out when you need to change.