Easton axis arrows footings

[ERegs]

Anybody have any luck footing Easton axis shafts with say aluminum arrow. With shooting 3Ds if you miss and hit enough rocks and trees and such it mushrooms the arrow real easy. I know I know you not suppose to miss lol but were always trying to squeeze arrows through trees and shoot probably farther then we should. Just trying to make them a little more durable. I did find this bushing Easton makes too the may help but I don’t know. Any tips are appreciated thanks! https://eastonarchery.com/product/broadhead-alignment-rings-bar/

 

[nevadabugle]

I shot axis for years. Foot a 400 spine with a 1916 aluminum and a 340 spine with a 1913. Extend the footing just beyond the back of the HIT insert. Epoxy in place with a 24 hour epoxy.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

The bar rings are better than nothing but I’ve had several break. Just make sure to oversize your field tips to match the BAR. Footing would be a better option.

 

[ERegs]

Gotcha, I shoot 200gr points sometimes 175gr depending on the bow. The 200gr a a little bigger then the shaft is diameter. Maybe I got to find a better fitting point

 

[ERegs]

I shot axis for years. Foot a 400 spine with a 1916 aluminum and a 340 spine with a 1913. Extend the footing just beyond the back of the HIT insert. Epoxy in place with a 24 hour epoxy.

Any chance you do you know what fits a 500 spine arrow? I shoot 400, my old man shoots the 500 and trying to fix the issue for him too.

 

[nevadabugle]

Any chance you do you know what fits a 500 spine arrow? I shoot 400, my old man shoots the 500 and trying to fix the issue for him too.

I don't. I would guess a 2020 or so?

 

[nevadabugle]

Do you own a pair of calipers? There are charts available on the internet that have the inside diameter of aluminum arrows. Could always measure the 500s and see what's close. You want a tight but not forceful fit.

 

[ERegs]

Do you own a pair of calipers? There are charts available on the internet that have the inside diameter of aluminum arrows. Could always measure the 500s and see what's close. You want a tight but not forceful fit.

Yeah I got some I’ll measure, didn’t know if you knew off hand. Last question for you, do you use like a J.B. Weld 2 part epoxy or do you use the Easton hit epoxy? And do you do a little sand on the outside of the shaft so the epoxy bonds better? Really appreciate your help!

 

[nevadabugle]

Yeah I got some I’ll measure, didn’t know if you knew off hand. Last question for you, do you use like a J.B. Weld 2 part epoxy or do you use the Easton hit epoxy? And do you do a little sand on the outside of the shaft so the epoxy bonds better? Really appreciate your help!

I have typically used the HIT epoxy. I do rough up the outside of the shaft a bit with sand paper. But just enough to put some grooves in the shaft, not enough to reduce the diameter. The most important trick to not having the footing slide up the shaft is having a point that is equal to or slightly larger than the footing. For example I shoot a 5/16" ( 20/64) point infront of a 1916 (19/64) footing.

 

[nevadabugle]

One last thought. I used to foot axis before there were many (if any) companies that offered factory footings with their shafts. The market has quite a few options now that sell some type of a collar system for their arrow. Anymore I shoot Day Six arrows, which come with a bomb proof collar set up. It saves me a bunch of time when building arrows.

 

[ERegs]

I’ve seen the day six arrows looks like the make a great arrow just out of the budget. I probably lose/break 6-9 arrows a year due between the shoots we take and the group I shoot indoors with were always going for each others arrow when we stick tennis balls that hang. All in good fun tho. Thanks again man!

 

[Beendare]

I’ve tried the footers…Meh…they hurt more than help. Those can make your arrows tough or very tough to pull in some targets.

The process I found that has made my Axis tougher is squaring the ends with fine sandpaper. Look at the ends of your carbons right off the saw….terrible. Milling the ends makes for a tighter fit with FP and BH.

 

[nevadabugle]

I’ve tried the footers…Meh…they hurt more than help. Those can make your arrows tough or very tough to pull in some targets.

The process I found that has made my Axis tougher is squaring the ends with fine sandpaper. Look at the ends of your carbons right off the saw….terrible. Milling the ends makes for a tighter fit with FP and BH.

Hate to disagree.

I use a reloading case prep tool to slope the back of the footing. This makes pulling them from targets no harder than any other shaft.

Footings 100 percent make arrows tougher. You are correct that squaring the ends helps too, but footings flat work.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

The first 2 digits of an aluminum shaft's 4 digit model/size number are the outside diameter in 64ths of an inch. The second 2 digits are wall thickness in 1000ths of an inch. So you can calculate inside diameter of an ABCD aluminum shaft as AB/64 – 2×CD/1000. For example, ID of a 1914 = 19/64 – 2×14/1000 = .269". Below are ID's of some common aluminum shafts. An Easton Gamegetter 2018 (.277" calculated ID) fits over my 300 spine 5mm Axis shafts (.275" advertised OD) like a glove.


Top Hat protector rings can also be used as a miniature external footer.

I've played around with homemade aluminum footers and Top Hat rings on my 5mm Axis arrows but ultimately decided that the juice wasn't worth the squeeze.

 

[Sapcut]

Arrafoot Carbon Arrow Footing

Arrow footings are used to significantly increase the structural integrity of the arrow. That is paramount when maximizing penetration or making it through a day of killing stumps. The footings are also beneficial during the arrow tuning process. Depending on the arrow, the ArraFoot can have a...

kustomkingarchery.com

 

[Beendare]

Hate to disagree.

I use a reloading case prep tool to slope the back of the footing. This makes pulling them from targets no harder than any other shaft.

Footings 100 percent make arrows tougher. You are correct that squaring the ends helps too, but footings flat work.

You dont shoot the bag targets then….

I’ve put a bevel on the back of those sleeves, still tough to pull.

I think 5 Milesback said it best….why spend the equivalent cost of a few arrows for sleeves that might help save an arrow?

I shoot 2 blade heads….and get my arrows bouncing in the rocks past critters all the time ….sure I break a couple arrows here and there but I was bending and breaking the same amount with the collars.

 

[Quentin VanPelt]

I foot all my axis, wouldn’t shoot them without it. I do a lot of stump shooting and will shoot at just about anything. Only broke a few axis at the footing and that was hitting a frozen rock bank in the winter. Even then it just split the footing. Here is a chart for aluminum arrow inside diameters. Eastons website has the outside diameter of their arrows. I foot a 300 axis with a 2016. $5.00 alumnium arrow cut into 1” pieces is worth saving a more expensive arrow, no way I would pay for collars for just a little more work glueing footings on.

 

[ERegs]

I foot all my axis, wouldn’t shoot them without it. I do a lot of stump shooting and will shoot at just about anything. Only broke a few axis at the footing and that was hitting a frozen rock bank in the winter. Even then it just split the footing. Here is a chart for aluminum arrow inside diameters. Eastons website has the outside diameter of their arrows. I foot a 300 axis with a 2016. $5.00 alumnium arrow cut into 1” pieces is worth saving a more expensive arrow, no way I would pay for collars for just a little more work glueing footings on.

Thanks man!

 

[GLB]

I don’t foot my Axis but I do use the Easton BAR adapter rings. Seems to strengthen up the tips.

 

[Blackcow]

Tophat protector rings work pretty good too Less than a footer, more than the BAR