Arrow Build Overview!!

[Dylan Sluis]

Another thing to consider is to buy the Sport (SPT) version of the Axis. Or even the normal non pro Axis. They are the exact same shaft but have a different straightness tolerance. It is marketed as a different shaft but they are not and 99% of us could never tell the difference if you prep using this method.

Spin each arrow and then cut off the end that has the most wobble. If no noticeable wobble cut from both ends. Using this method you can make a .006 tolerance arrow shoot the same as a .001.

The cost might not seem significant but you'll save ~$95 per dozen. To be frank most .006 shafts from reputable companies spin well and I shoot broadheads out to 90 multiple times per week. I can't tell the difference. Also, another area you could save in the future is by using the new Ethics Archery HIT and Collar (they've had the collar for quite awhile but added the HIT).

Adjustable 5mm/.204 Internal Insert with End Cap, .272 (Comparable to

Installation: For the Insert with End Cap, you will use the Installation Tool. Place the End Cap on, then the insert so you can install them at the same time. Make sure you dry fit the End Cap for proper fitment prior to gluing. *Installation Tool not included.

ethicsarchery.com

I roughly estimate that you can save $132 this way. Essentially building 2 dozen premium arrows for the same cost.

That's a viable option is you have your own saw. I don't have a saw of my own and didn't want to go through the process of having to try and explain to a shop to cut 3" off nock side and 2" off point side or whatever. So I just spent the extra money and got match grade shafts. And those ethics inserts are very interesting, i'll keep those in mind for next time.

 

[Bump79]

That's a viable option is you have your own saw. I don't have a saw of my own and didn't want to go through the process of having to try and explain to a shop to cut 3" off nock side and 2" off point side or whatever. So I just spent the extra money and got match grade shafts. And those ethics inserts are very interesting, i'll keep those in mind for next time.

Fair enough, most shops aren't a fan of it.

Arrow building is a rabbit hole I build for a bunch of family and friends so I built an easy DIY saw with a Dremel that I already had. Then square using a tool to make them perfect. Works great!

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Fair enough, most shops aren't a fan of it.

Arrow building is a rabbit hole I build for a bunch of family and friends so I built an easy DIY saw with a Dremel that I already had. Then square using a tool to make them perfect. Works great!

This was my first time building arrows completely from the ground up. And I totally agree with the statement building arrows is a rabbit hole. I enjoyed the process, but I am glad that I am done. And I know it will just make it even more special when I get to harvest an animal with these arrows.

 

[Plowboy85]

He's got a 4-fletch, so none of them will be the cock vane most likely. Probably a cock "gap".....LOL. I never know which is going to be the cock vane even with 3-fletch until I'm done nock tuning etc.

Good point on the 4 fletch. My thoughts on nock tuning the bareshaft would be slight rotation until it shoots like you want abs sharpie make top dead center and consider that your cock or vertical vane. I reckon my main question was if he found value in the process.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Good point on the 4 fletch. My thoughts on nock tuning the bareshaft would be slight rotation until it shoots like you want abs sharpie make top dead center and consider that your cock or vertical vane. I reckon my main question was if he found value in the process.

Oh ya I found value in the process. It is crazy what tears you can get rid of just by nock tuning. It really surprised me.

 

[Swampcruiser]

Nice job, they look great. I nock tune bare shafts as well. I just like to make sure I have it lined up, even on 4 fletch. You’ll be glad you took the extra time! Great to have confidence in your work.

 

[Button]

Another thing to consider is to buy the Sport (SPT) version of the Axis. Or even the normal non pro Axis. They are the exact same shaft but have a different straightness tolerance. It is marketed as a different shaft but they are not and 99% of us could never tell the difference if you prep using this method.

Spin each arrow and then cut off the end that has the most wobble. If no noticeable wobble cut from both ends. Using this method you can make a .006 tolerance arrow shoot the same as a .001.

The cost might not seem significant but you'll save ~$95 per dozen. Paying for your components. To be frank most .006 shafts from reputable companies spin well and I shoot broadheads out to 90 multiple times per week. I can't tell the difference. Also, another area you could save in the future is by using the new Ethics Archery HIT and Collar (they've had the collar for quite awhile but added the HIT).

Adjustable 5mm/.204 Internal Insert with End Cap, .272 (Comparable to

Installation: For the Insert with End Cap, you will use the Installation Tool. Place the End Cap on, then the insert so you can install them at the same time. Make sure you dry fit the End Cap for proper fitment prior to gluing. *Installation Tool not included.

ethicsarchery.com

I roughly estimate that you can save $132 this way. Essentially building 2 dozen premium arrows for the same cost.

This is exactly what I do. Spin them like a merry go round, chew off wobbly end, square ends. I can’t cut much off due to DL, however a slightly drunk .003 goes from good to great. Cutting 2”-2.5” off a really wobbly .006 gets most of them straight enough, though I had a few that were still wobbly.

OP, IME arrow spinner, arrow saw, and squaring tool are well worth having, especially if you do not live near a pro shop.

 

[5MilesBack]

That's a viable option is you have your own saw. I don't have a saw of my own

I've been using a $17 Harbor Freight Dremel knockoff that I clamp to my work bench exactly where my cut mark is on the arrows. Drill a short hole in a sideboard for the nock end to spin in, and roll the arrows into the blade just like I would an arrow saw. Then square them, and they're as good as an arrow saw will cut them. I've probably cut 20 doz shafts with this setup and they've all come out great. It would be easy to set up the Shop Vac as well to suck up all the powdered carbon too. I just put a wet paper towel on the bench under where I'm cutting, and wear a mask (the only time I wear a mask).

I'm not a big paper tuning guy. So for nock tuning, I prefer to shoot them all fletched at a vertical line from 60 yards and rotate them until they all hit that line. I rarely see any vertical dispersion from arrows.....just horizontal, and this will normally clear that up.

I wish I could cut more off of each end. The manufacturers measure their straightness over a 28" span. Shooting 30" CTC arrows with a 32 7/8" draw, I don't have much room for error. So I always buy the straightest I can get. I've tried some of the cheaper arrows, and have not been pleased at all.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I've been using a $17 Harbor Freight Dremel knockoff that I clamp to my work bench exactly where my cut mark is on the arrows. Drill a short hole in a sideboard for the nock end to spin in, and roll the arrows into the blade just like I would an arrow saw. Then square them, and they're as good as an arrow saw will cut them. I've probably cut 20 doz shafts with this setup and they've all come out great. It would be easy to set up the Shop Vac as well to suck up all the powdered carbon too. I just put a wet paper towel on the bench under where I'm cutting, and wear a mask (the only time I wear a mask).

I'm not a big paper tuning guy. So for nock tuning, I prefer to shoot them all fletched at a vertical line from 60 yards and rotate them until they all hit that line. I rarely see any vertical dispersion from arrows.....just horizontal, and this will normally clear that up.

I wish I could cut more off of each end. The manufacturers measure their straightness over a 28" span. Shooting 30" CTC arrows with a 32 7/8" draw, I don't have much room for error. So I always buy the straightest I can get. I've tried some of the cheaper arrows, and have not been pleased at all.

Thanks for the advice in an arrow saw. I'll look into that!!

 

[N2TRKYS]

Why did you choose a 4 fletch?

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Why did you choose a 4 fletch?

I went with a lower profile vane so I could have more clearance. I use fixed blade broadheads, so I wanted the extra vane to help with steering. And if you use the 2.25 driver it is recommended you use a 4 fletch for broadheads. I went with the 2.25 over the 2.75 to save a little bit of weight on the back of my arrow to keep my FOC higher.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I just measured the FOC of my arrow and it is higher then I thought it was going to be. The FOC ended up being 12.9% which makes me really happy.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I just measured the FOC of my arrow and it is higher then I thought it was going to be. The FOC ended up being 12.9% which makes me really happy.

If foc is what trips your trigger, you could ditch the wrap and extra fletch. Unless you’re using a super wide broadhead, three 2” Blazer vanes would do well.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

If foc is what trips your trigger, you could ditch the wrap and extra fletch. Unless you’re using a super wide broadhead, three 2” Blazer vanes would do well.

I'm not chasing FOC. If I was, I wouldn't have chose a shaft that weighs 10.7 GPI. I just wanted a half decent FOC, around 11-13%. Like I said above I didn't want a high profile vane due to clearance. I used the wrap because first of all I really like the look of it. And with TAC vanes it really helps with adhesion.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Any info on the diy saw?

 

[N2TRKYS]

I'm not chasing FOC. If I was, I wouldn't have chose a shaft that weighs 10.7 GPI. I just wanted a half decent FOC, around 11-13%. Like I said above I didn't want a high profile vane due to clearance. I used the wrap because first of all I really like the look of it. And with TAC vanes it really helps with adhesion.

Dang, Blazer’s height causes clearance issues on your bow? Sorry to hear that. That would be aggravating to deal with.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Any info on the diy saw?

No, not yet, if you want some information you will have to ask 5Miles Back

 

[Dylan Sluis]

Dang, Blazer’s height causes clearance issues on your bow? Sorry to hear that. That would be aggravating to deal with.

They don't touch the cables, but are extremely close. I don't like having vanes that close to my cables so I chose to go to a lower profile vane. Could you shoot blazers with my bow, yes. I don't just because how close they are to touching my cables. I shoot the Hoyt Torrex for reference.

 

[N2TRKYS]

They don't touch the cables, but are extremely close. I don't like having vanes that close to my cables so I chose to go to a lower profile vane. Could you shoot blazers with my bow, yes. I don't just because how close they are to touching my cables. I shoot the Hoyt Torrex for reference.

Good luck with it.

 

[JoeDirt]

Thanks for the advice in an arrow saw. I'll look into that!!

Any info on the diy saw?

I just put a diamond masonry type blade on my miter saw. It cuts really square no need to use a squaring tool. The only prep I do after cutting is chamfer the ID/OD to break that sharp edge.