I've gotten several PMs and texts over the last couple months as folks seasons are winding down and new rifles are on the horizon for off season training and then hunting next year.
I have put together 7 personal Tikka/Maven RS1.2/UM Tikka rings combos and have helped put together several others. Here are the torque specs I've landed on for continued success on the guns and scopes not losing their zero. Think practical field use and very nasty roads/off road trails minimum 3-5 days per week, combined with shooting hundreds of rounds per week.
Action Screws: With factory bottom plastic I use 50-55" lbs. With High Desert Bottom Metal I use the provided thick shims and use 60-65" lbs. Sometimes these values can cause the magazine to not click in easily so I'll go down in 3" lb increments until the magazines clicks in as expected (this is rare).
Trigger Assembly Large Allen Screw: I do not use a torque wrench on this. I use a regular L shaped allen wrench and torque HARD until the wrench starts to bend. While your doing this go ahead and back the smaller allen spring tension screw out as far as it will go.
Scope Bases To Action: I use 30mm UM Low Rings and use the provided threaded pins. You may need to take a 1/16" drill bit and gently clean the receiver threads out to get them to thread in. I use 60" lbs for these but anywhere from 55-65" lbs works.
Scope Ring Cap Screws: I use 35" lbs for these with my Mavens and SWFA's with stronger tubes. If using a Leupold or Vortex with the weaker tubes use just under 30" lbs.
As I learned from @Formidilosus I use an oil based paint pen for all of my installs, and fully degrease every screw with brake clean, and let fully dry. I also take all the screws up to the torque value and then back them off a touch, and then re-torque again with multiple "clicks" of the torque wrench for each screw.
One more note... As someone screenshotted one of my older posts, I DID previously use aftermarket trigger springs in my Tikkas. I no longer use anything but the factory trigger spring, with it backed out as far as it will go.
Please post any questions here for visibility to others.
I have put together 7 personal Tikka/Maven RS1.2/UM Tikka rings combos and have helped put together several others. Here are the torque specs I've landed on for continued success on the guns and scopes not losing their zero. Think practical field use and very nasty roads/off road trails minimum 3-5 days per week, combined with shooting hundreds of rounds per week.
Action Screws: With factory bottom plastic I use 50-55" lbs. With High Desert Bottom Metal I use the provided thick shims and use 60-65" lbs. Sometimes these values can cause the magazine to not click in easily so I'll go down in 3" lb increments until the magazines clicks in as expected (this is rare).
Trigger Assembly Large Allen Screw: I do not use a torque wrench on this. I use a regular L shaped allen wrench and torque HARD until the wrench starts to bend. While your doing this go ahead and back the smaller allen spring tension screw out as far as it will go.
Scope Bases To Action: I use 30mm UM Low Rings and use the provided threaded pins. You may need to take a 1/16" drill bit and gently clean the receiver threads out to get them to thread in. I use 60" lbs for these but anywhere from 55-65" lbs works.
Scope Ring Cap Screws: I use 35" lbs for these with my Mavens and SWFA's with stronger tubes. If using a Leupold or Vortex with the weaker tubes use just under 30" lbs.
As I learned from @Formidilosus I use an oil based paint pen for all of my installs, and fully degrease every screw with brake clean, and let fully dry. I also take all the screws up to the torque value and then back them off a touch, and then re-torque again with multiple "clicks" of the torque wrench for each screw.
One more note... As someone screenshotted one of my older posts, I DID previously use aftermarket trigger springs in my Tikkas. I no longer use anything but the factory trigger spring, with it backed out as far as it will go.
Please post any questions here for visibility to others.
