I’m going to call this project complete pending any adjustments needed after I get a chance to shoot it further than 50 yards. I’ll post an update then…
That’s what I’ve intended. Just a practical, accurate rifle I haven’t the slightest concern about marring in use. I’ve found the tru-oil finish to be highly repairable as is the rust bluing I applied to the metal. This rifle is far cheaper than a new custom but it’s fully custom built for me and as accurate and reliable as I could possibly want.
Shoots great in this stock! 5 rounds in an inch or so. I was hoping to see the holes appear in the paper at 100 yards but recoil wasn’t quite that smooth. I’m sure I’ll be able to watch bullet splatter on steel at 300 or so.
Hey @Mtnmilsurp nice work. Have you weighed the stock? What did it come in at?
I’m thinking of making a walnut Rokstock for my tikka, getting one out of the US is prohibitively expensive. I’m a professional stock maker, so should be able to knock one up pretty quick. ‘Classic’ stockwork can be time consuming
I could easily hollow out the rear of the stock and the forend (which currently has a decent gap under the barrel) and reduce it by about 4 oz but my rifle is at 9.4lbs which is a good weight for me to shoot. If I ever get super proficient at shooting I might put a lighter barrel on and lighten the stock but it’s good for my abilities now.
Nice! I’m just finishing a stock for a friends Howa .308, and it’s coming out at just on 1kg (35oz)
I also built a .358 Winchester for myself that came out at 7 1/2lb all up. Done right, a wood rifle can be surprisingly light!
For those interested in inexpensive, functional wood I just contacted Cousineau through their website and they say they still have maple, birch, and walnut blanks for sale although I couldn’t find the blanks online anywhere.