Direct thread suppressors and thread compounds

[H80Hunter]

I don’t see this answered in one spot but on a direct thread can, clean the threads and just thread it on? Or use some sort of anti-seize or loctite? These won’t be swapped very often.

I read the loctite creates temperature related issues making it most pointless.

 

[MThuntr]

Shouldn't need to worry about it. When you're done shooting, pop them loose when done

IF you feel so inclined a high temp nickel or ceramic grease. A very little bit goes a very long way

 

[Matt5266]

Do not lock tight. Use some anti seize grease. Just a little bit

 

[maxx075]

If you want a semi permanent solution so that you don't have to worry about it backing off, use some rocksett.

 

[Cameron.25]

I bought some high temp teflon tape type stuff off amazon for some of my dedicated setups, works great. Its dark gray in color

 

[hereinaz]

Blue or red loctite, just fine. Of course I am in the camp that puts blue loctite in scope rings too. It has never hurt a scope or rings.

A hunting rifle will never make heat an issue. You can use Rockset but it has to be released with effort and water or something. It is more a permanent bond than temporary.

I use red and blue loctite on stainless barrels and have for a long time on brakes and suppressors. Hand tight or not.

I also just hand tight my suppressor snug and swap between rifles at the range all the time. The old loctite on one barrel seems to help that rifle from walking off.

Owning a suppressor that is not bonded or glued of some kind needs to be checked frequently because it can and will back off.

I run ultra 7 direct thread.

QD brakes I run with my Nitro 30 have required a torch to loosen the blue loctite.

 

[HandgunHTR]

I don't use anything on my threads and all but one of my suppressors are DT. The one that isn't is only swapped between two AR uppers.

I also haven't had an issue with them coming loose since I started doing the following:

• Thread the suppressor onto the barrel until it just contacts the shoulder
• Turn it back off about 1/4 turn
• Wrap your hand around the suppressor and give it a good "snap" into place

I have been doing that for a while now. Again, no issue with them coming loose.

 

[huntabsarokee]

So picked up my first suppressor tonight a Dead Air. The manual on the website talks about grease for mounting the direct thread but I don’t see much on here. Sounds like most use nothing. Guess I just spin it in tight by hand and go shoot. It’s a Nomad Ti Xc on a 6.5.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

So picked up my first suppressor tonight a Dead Air. The manual on the website talks about grease for mounting the direct thread but I don’t see much on here. Sounds like most use nothing. Guess I just spin it in tight by hand and go shoot. It’s a Nomad Ti Xc on a 6.5.

I don’t use any grease.

 

[dreadi]

Teflon tape

 

[Mag_7s]

Unknown Suppressors recomeded this product to me for thread lubricant/anti carbon lock. https://truebluegunlube.com/true-blue-suppressor-syrup/

 

[rileybassman]

Keep threads clean and a slight amount of anti-sieze.

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

 

[Nine Banger]

I've been using loctite or rocksett if the barrel needs an adapter and grease and the snap on the suppressor threads.

I started using 2 shallow nuts run into each other to tighten adapters before the rocksett dries.

A few of my suppressors take a lot of torque to get to the shoulder if I don't put any grease on and that makes them a beyatch to get back off. I think about galling.