Custom Home - Must Haves?

[CorbLand]

My dream home will have a urinal somewhere in it!

My dream home urinal would be off the back porch..or the front....

 

[Grumman]

I know 2 people that have them that have caused a TON of damage by leaking. I'll stick to filling my pots in the sink after their nightmares.

My dream home will have a urinal somewhere in it!

My wife had to have one. I installed another valve in the wall behind it so I could turn it off once the new wore off of it.


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[Deadfall]

I’m positive I’m in the minority here, but be VERY careful with ICF. We are currently working on an extremely high profile job in Salt Lake City, installing huge amounts of stone on an ICF structure that a huge local company formed and poured. I’ve NEVER seen walls so out of plumb or crooked in my life. There is one wall that’s 6” out of plumb in 18 feet of vertical. The waterproofing membranes won’t adhere appropriately to the wall, and it took forever to cure, none of the corners are square, and the insulation is crumbling away. The owner has now stated that, no matter how energy efficient ICF is on paper, they’ll never use it again. I tend to agree with them, I’ll likely never use it either after watching the nightmare of this job. Some of the issues can surely be tied to poor install, but some of them seem to be inherent to the materials.

If you do go that direction, you need to vet the installer EXTREMELY well. And even then, I wouldn’t go above foundation with it. Like I said, I acknowledge I’m in the minority, but it only took me one building to write the whole system off as a gimmick. YMMV.

I'm rowin that boat with ya. Another issue are bugs and water.

 

[doc holiday13]

I know 2 people that have them that have caused a TON of damage by leaking. I'll stick to filling my pots in the sink after their nightmares.

Sounds like the installer did a $h!t job.. I've installed a lot of plumbing and none of it has leaked. Only other way leaking would occur is if someone put a screw thru piping. Having a spigot over your stove isn't any different than a bathroom or kitchen sink..

user error would be the other reason i see water damage.. It ain't hard to turn water off. if your water spigot won't turn off then you should buy a better faucet

 

[doc holiday13]

I’m positive I’m in the minority here, but be VERY careful with ICF. We are currently working on an extremely high profile job in Salt Lake City, installing huge amounts of stone on an ICF structure that a huge local company formed and poured. I’ve NEVER seen walls so out of plumb or crooked in my life. There is one wall that’s 6” out of plumb in 18 feet of vertical. The waterproofing membranes won’t adhere appropriately to the wall, and it took forever to cure, none of the corners are square, and the insulation is crumbling away. The owner has now stated that, no matter how energy efficient ICF is on paper, they’ll never use it again. I tend to agree with them, I’ll likely never use it either after watching the nightmare of this job. Some of the issues can surely be tied to poor install, but some of them seem to be inherent to the materials.

If you do go that direction, you need to vet the installer EXTREMELY well. And even then, I wouldn’t go above foundation with it. Like I said, I acknowledge I’m in the minority, but it only took me one building to write the whole system off as a gimmick. YMMV.

Yes vetting your installer should be a priority. When pouring concrete for ICF, you still need to shore the walls and it sounds like the installer thought the ICF didn't need shoring. .

From my understanding all ICF waterproofing should be fluid applied. To stop bug infiltration a section of metal j channel needs to be installed by cutting out a small lateral strip section of the exterior insulation. This is done all the way around the building

 

[KurtR]

I’m positive I’m in the minority here, but be VERY careful with ICF. We are currently working on an extremely high profile job in Salt Lake City, installing huge amounts of stone on an ICF structure that a huge local company formed and poured. I’ve NEVER seen walls so out of plumb or crooked in my life. There is one wall that’s 6” out of plumb in 18 feet of vertical. The waterproofing membranes won’t adhere appropriately to the wall, and it took forever to cure, none of the corners are square, and the insulation is crumbling away. The owner has now stated that, no matter how energy efficient ICF is on paper, they’ll never use it again. I tend to agree with them, I’ll likely never use it either after watching the nightmare of this job. Some of the issues can surely be tied to poor install, but some of them seem to be inherent to the materials.

If you do go that direction, you need to vet the installer EXTREMELY well. And even then, I wouldn’t go above foundation with it. Like I said, I acknowledge I’m in the minority, but it only took me one building to write the whole system off as a gimmick. YMMV.

100% on the install. I have been involved in the pouring of well over 500 foundations and houses built to the roof line. The concrete not curing is a concrete problem and the walls not being square and straight is an install problem. With well over 20 years I would say that ICF is well past the gimmick stage. I would be interested in what brand of ICF was used as there some that are better than others but it all falls back on the installer.

 

[KurtR]

I'm rowin that boat with ya. Another issue are bugs and water.

Water is no problem at all and if you are really worried about it just grove the footing where the up rights are and when you pour the walls it will make a seal. Really want to get serious put the water barrier in the footing. Or you could add Xypex to your concrete which makes it hydrophobic but thats getting extreme. Being up north here we have never had a problem with bugs. This is the waterproofing every one uses and put on the edge of footing also provides protection from water.

https://www.wrmeadows.com/icf-waterproofing-membrane/

 

[lifeisgoodsteve]

In this HOT 100 degree weather, one must have I've learned that's worth investing in:

• VERY good insulation
• Window orientation plan (and shades as necessary if need windows for views in non-ideal direction)
• Overhangs to minimize sun in summer and maximize in winter
• Whole house fan (if have cold nights during hot days) - great except if smokey air

Pretty simple stuff if think about and plan for it before construction.

At 100 degrees for past two days the hottest my place got in room with lots of windows was about 78. We open all the windows at night and let the whole house fan run all night. By morning inside is in the 50's-60's. I do have a concrete floor though, which really helps keep things cool as long as I can cool it off well at night.

 

[dingle]

I’m positive I’m in the minority here, but be VERY careful with ICF. We are currently working on an extremely high profile job in Salt Lake City, installing huge amounts of stone on an ICF structure that a huge local company formed and poured. I’ve NEVER seen walls so out of plumb or crooked in my life. There is one wall that’s 6” out of plumb in 18 feet of vertical. The waterproofing membranes won’t adhere appropriately to the wall, and it took forever to cure, none of the corners are square, and the insulation is crumbling away. The owner has now stated that, no matter how energy efficient ICF is on paper, they’ll never use it again. I tend to agree with them, I’ll likely never use it either after watching the nightmare of this job. Some of the issues can surely be tied to poor install, but some of them seem to be inherent to the materials.

If you do go that direction, you need to vet the installer EXTREMELY well. And even then, I wouldn’t go above foundation with it. Like I said, I acknowledge I’m in the minority, but it only took me one building to write the whole system off as a gimmick. YMMV.

What's the name of the ICF producer and product/spec?

 

[Grumman]

Sounds like the installer did a $h!t job.. I've installed a lot of plumbing and none of it has leaked. Only other way leaking would occur is if someone put a screw thru piping. Having a spigot over your stove isn't any different than a bathroom or kitchen sink..

user error would be the other reason i see water damage.. It ain't hard to turn water off. if your water spigot won't turn off then you should buy a better faucet

Here’s the way my builder explained his hate for them. If a bathroom or sink faucet starts dripping through or turned on by a dang house cat down the road while homeowner is on vacation the water runs in the sink drain. With the pot filler, it’s gonna run onto your stove/cabinets/floor.


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[Darryle]

These are probably only of interest to someone like me.

Coolest thing I was shown was where to put the AC overflow catch pan drain, put it above a shower stall, you won't be able to ignore it when the unit condensation drain stops up.

Second coolest thing was PVC conduit for everything electrical or for connectivity, with a few extra pull tape lines in each one.

I am finishing up the drawings for my retirement home, small, simple, cheap utilities and with safety designed in. I am approaching 60, so safety and the ability to take care of myself was paramount, wife passed away in January, so it's just me.

 

[doc holiday13]

Here’s the way my builder explained his hate for them. If a bathroom or sink faucet starts dripping through or turned on by a dang house cat down the road while homeowner is on vacation the water runs in the sink drain. With the pot filler, it’s gonna run onto your stove/cabinets/floor.

... I see 2 issues..

1) you shouldn't own a cat.
2) if you're going out of town, you should always turn off your main water supply. Yes i do it for even weekend trips

 

[as.ks.ak]

... I see 2 issues..

1) you shouldn't own a cat.
2) if you're going out of town, you should always turn off your main water supply. Yes i do it for even weekend trips

Easier said than done. Especially in places where the frost drives down into the ground past the main line valve. It is paramount to keep water flowing from October-March in my neck of the woods. Even in insulted lines with heat trace. Rely on a wire in the ground, or just run the water?

I do understand places like my community where water is not metered, are the exception. But there are a lot of places where turning the main line water supply off just simply isn’t an option.

Furthermore, if I was doing new construction in a climate like this, I’d specifically have a slop sink in the garage or a room not often used for the purpose of running water in a place no one is going accidentally shut it off.


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[TaperPin]

I used to build good icf foundations below and above ground. The company I started with wasnt the cheapest, but our work was always top knotch and we would get the call when someone screwed up. If an entire icf foundation fails during the pour one wall always falls in, pulling two sides in half way, leaving the far wall standing. Lol

Straight walls are nice and it takes a lot of bracing and enough experienced manpower to straighten unexpected bulges and bows. Good judgement and experience can’t be faked on concrete day.

Likewise, if someone is setting up a pour and they don’t have extra materials for the unexpected, or to push from the outside, then their walls will be crap. Most bracing is only set up on the inside, but walls can’t be pulled on, only pushed.

Three types of concrete and three types of contractors. Soupy pea gravel poured unvibrated is easy and meets code in many places - Colorado companies loved doing this because it was cheap. Then there is 3/4 aggregate put in and not vibrated by guys that don’t know what they are doing and it will leak like a sieve. I‘ve only used 3/4 ag and always fully vibrate each lift into the last - the forms bulge and will bust open if vibrated too long. If it was easy everybody could do a good job, but it’s not.

I‘ve never seen a liquid membrane applied below grade that didn’t have holes in it. I’m a firm believer in an Ice-and-Water-Sheild applied from 6” above grade all the down and around to the bottom of the footer. Screw on a 2x4 to hold the top until it’s backfilled. Every joint laps and seals the full length down.

Every house should have an easily accessed ball valve shutoff. These little steel doors can be mudded and painted on a wall - this is ours and any house sitter knows if any water leaks happen to simply pull the lever. On weekend trips it’s easy to pull leaving and to reset when we’re home. (The real reason to have one is it makes doing any plumbing work twice as easy)

 

[ShortMountain91]

I agree with an accessible water shut off. This is how I plumbed my house which I have been very please with. Manifold home run system with single pieces of PEX A to every fixture. Individual shut offs to every fixture and a main shut off all in my garage (don't put it there if your garage is uninsulated in a cold area). Get hot water pretty quick this way too albeit not as quick as with a recirc system

 

[displacedtexan]

My dream home urinal would be off the back porch..or the front....

Or?

 

[displacedtexan]

... I see 2 issues..

1) you shouldn't own a cat.
2) if you're going out of town, you should always turn off your main water supply. Yes i do it for even weekend trips

No one owns a cat.

We do have one that sleeps on my wife's side of the bed, and another one that sleeps somewhere near my shop.

 

[CorbLand]

Or?

Or anywhere because it sits on enough ground I don’t have neighbors?

 

[displacedtexan]

Or anywhere because it sits on enough ground I don’t have neighbors?

Exactly. Why choose!