Changing Anchor Points

[Loco4dux]

I recently switched from a fixed 5 pin sight that I had been shooting for 3 years to a MBG 3 pin slider. In order to get it dialed in I had to move my peep up higher etc. Anyways, having some real difficulty adjusting/changing my anchor point to where it needs to be now. Got some brief instruction/advise at the Archery shop but have really been struggling with my groups even at 30 & 40. Archery shop is kind of a long drive for me so before I head back up there to get some help I thought I would ask you guys what you think? Kisser button? Videos to watch? Starting to think I should've just left the bow alone as I shot it fairly well. Opening day will be here soon. Any thoughts and advise appreciated.

Thanks

 

[N2TRKYS]

I've never had to change my peep when changing bow sights.

 

[elkguide]

Don't understand why changing your sight would have anything to do with moving your peep??????? And definitely what it would have to do with changing your anchor????????????

When setting up a new bow after putting my peep in close proximity to where it was on my other bows, I always draw with my eyes closed and open my eyes, without moving my head, I should be looking through the peep. Sight adjustment happens from there.

 

[xcutter]

Don't understand why changing your sight would have anything to do with moving your peep??????? And definitely what it would have to do with changing your anchor????????????

When setting up a new bow after putting my peep in close proximity to where it was on my other bows, I always draw with my eyes closed and open my eyes, without moving my head, I should be looking through the peep. Sight adjustment happens from there.

I agree with this guy. Depending on axle length on bows your peep height should be pretty close. Example being a short ATA bow will have the peep higher up the string from nock point compared to a longer ATA bow.

Are you changing your anchor because you ran out of adjustment on your sight? If so you might need to check out your rest. Maybe it is sitting above center of the berger hole? Or vise versa.

 

[cody covey]

I set my peep height just like a fixed pin head, meaning that when i slide the sight head up to shoot longer distances i have to "cheat" my face position a bit on the string. As long as my sight housing is aligned with my peep in all positions i can shoot it accurately at most any distance. I would not shoot a kisser button (i did for years and am glad i got rid of it).

 

[5MilesBack]

when i slide the sight head up to shoot longer distances

Don't you mean down?

I can understand where he's coming from depending on how far he can actually move his sight head after getting everything in place. If he sets his peep and anchor for the normal 3 pin configuration shooting, then when he moves the sight head down for long range shooting keeping the same anchor and peep position will have the sight head well below his sight picture through his peep. You have to adjust something else when you adjust the entire sight head down that far, if you want to keep it all in the same line of sight.

 

[Brodie]

I'm assuming you had to do this to get enough vertical out of the moveable sight for longer ranges?
If you have to continue with the anchor change definitely put a kisser button on I think you'll find it helps recreate proper anchor from shot to shot, eventually you'll regain some muscle memory from repitition.


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[N2TRKYS]

I've never lined my peep up with the sight housing like folks talk about. I never saw the need to do it. I just center the pin in the peep that I want to use and that's it. I never use the level in the sights, either.

 

[cody covey]

Don't you mean down?

I can understand where he's coming from depending on how far he can actually move his sight head after getting everything in place. If he sets his peep and anchor for the normal 3 pin configuration shooting, then when he moves the sight head down for long range shooting keeping the same anchor and peep position will have the sight head well below his sight picture through his peep. You have to adjust something else when you adjust the entire sight head down that far, if you want to keep it all in the same line of sight.

Yeah, i mean down. Whether its up or down it doesn't matter. The point is that if you run a slider your going to have to dink around with the peep to see what works best for you. If you set the peep height to match the height of your sight when its in the middle of its travel then you will have to slightly tweek your face when you move it or down.. In my case i shoot 5 pins so i set my peep height where is comfortable then manipulate my sights head/pins to match that. Then when i dial my head for long range i just slightly adjust my face. Not saying its for everyone but it seems to work fine for me.

 

[Loco4dux]

I was definitely not in favor of changing my peep height. But after a ton of time spent at home trying to get the sight dialed and then quite a bit of time spent at the archery shop, the owner of the shop concluded that the only solution was to raise the peep in order to get enough adjustment out of the sight just as you guys mentioned above (when dialing the sight down to longer distances it was running into the arrow). So I went ahead and agreed, and it worked for the most part, better than it had before, I was able to dial down to 80 yards still not to 100-the end of the tape but at this point I was OK with that.

I did what someone mentioned above and closed my eyes and drew my bow back and opened my eyes to the exact spot of my old peep height and my old anchor point, that just feels natural to me. With the new peep height it causes my anchor to be so far back, in turn creating more bend in my bow arm and what feels like less stability (proven by horrendous groups) when I start moving back yardages.

Appreciate the feedback, thanks.

 

[dreamingbig]

I don't mean to be negative but if you are having to make all these changes to accommodate the new peep height something isn't right.

If your draw length is correct (within a half inch anyway) you should be able to anchor with your head perfectly vertical and your bow arm with hardly any bend.


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[Loco4dux]

I don't mean to be negative but if you are having to make all these changes to accommodate the new peep height something isn't right.

If your draw length is correct (within a half inch anyway) you should be able to anchor with your head perfectly vertical and your bow arm with hardly any bend.


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Your not being negative man constructive criticism is welcome by me, telling it how it is... That's how I feel about it too.

Maybe the whole slider sight just isn't set up for me and my bow? I don't know? I'm totally new to the slider deal, I loved the concept of it and the open sight picture but it's been a huge hassle.

Draw length is spot on, bows tuned, etc etc.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I swapped from a fixed pin sight to a slider sight and never changed my peep or my anchor point.

 

[ezmorningrebel]

i switched my anchor point earlier this year and just changed to a single pin slider so i've had a lot of moving parts recently. anchor point change was to correct some form issues. finally figured out that ducking my head to get my nose on the string on a short ATA bow was not the best for me. started anchoring at the corner of my mouth, no kisser, and it's been a good change. much more comfortable and full draw. i haven't shot past 50 yards with my slider yet so i haven't had to deal with any issues with getting everything in my sight picture lined up. i shoot a big peep so it's probably more forgiving when developing a sight picture, but at the cost of accuracy i'm sure.

 

[Mtslackcountry]

If it were me I would go back to my old setup. I get that shooting at 80 yards helps make the shorter shots easier but personally I would not shoot at game past 60 so I use a 5 pin fixed. Keep it simple. Easiest thing would be to go back to what worked. This shit is a mental game and before you know it the season will be here.

 

[Blackcow]

If your sight is way out at the end of a 4" or 6" dovetail, move it in closer to your bow, and make sure your bottom pin is at the bottom end of your housing, and that will buy you some more range without lowering your anchor or raising your peep (which are the same thing).

 

[5MilesBack]

I was able to dial down to 80 yards still not to 100-the end of the tape but at this point I was OK with that.

If all you can get is 80 out of a slider, I'd just go to a 7-pin sight and call it good. Then you could go back to your old peep height and anchor and use whatever pin you need. I use a 7-pin SH Hunter and I'm sure I could use a slider to drop the head down some distance from where it's at, but I have no idea how much. I just stack pins when I'm shooting at more than 80.

 

[ckleeves]

What are you starting your sight tape at yardage wise?

 

[Loco4dux]

If all you can get is 80 out of a slider, I'd just go to a 7-pin sight and call it good. Then you could go back to your old peep height and anchor and use whatever pin you need. I use a 7-pin SH Hunter and I'm sure I could use a slider to drop the head down some distance from where it's at, but I have no idea how much. I just stack pins when I'm shooting at more than 80.

That's the exact sight I had before switching but the 5 pin. To bad i can't just add two more pins to the housing.

What are you starting your sight tape at yardage wise?

20,30,40 pins & sight tape starts at 40

 

[5MilesBack]

That's the exact sight I had before switching but the 5 pin. To bad i can't just add two more pins to the housing.

Is it the small guard or the large guard? If it's the large guard, Spot Hogg can add a couple pins for a small fee.