Carbon fiber stocks - Blaser R8 / R93 and Sako 85 - DIY tinkering

[Steve O]

Not sure how I’ve missed this all the other times it has been discussed but wow, that is impressive. Really nice work!

 

[hpmr]

Thank you

 

[hpmr]

Got a question about what backpack I’m using. It started out as a Stone Glacier R3 5900 with a xcurve frame (2018), but has become somewhat of a frankenstein by now.

The original SG setup has served me well, and I love the bags simplicity and easy access. The frame however gets a bit uncomfortable with the heaviest loads (and tends to «barrel»).

Last year I put the bag on a eberlestock f1 frame, but it wasn’t a real improvement. This year I’ve been using the SG bag on an exo k4 frame, and it is - by far - the best setup I’ve tried. It really shines with the heavy loads.

Putting the SG bag on the k4 frame is mostly plug and play, reusing most of the buckles and straps (with some minor adjustments like switching male/female buckles). I also had to add two extra buckles at the top. I prefer using the R3 bag without lid. I’ve also transferred the meat shelf from the SG to the exo.

The coyote color match 99.9% across the brands

 

[Pepepotamo]

Following! I think I’ll give your method a try to build a stock tfor my Ultimate Blaser.

 

[HighUintas]

@hpmr , great work and thanks for sharing.

For your sake 85 stock, did you also sacrifice a Sako stock mid section for the bedding?

I was thinking over how I'd accomplish this for a Tikka and do the bedding portion. It seems it might be easiest using using a Tikka factory synthetic stock and chopping the bedding section out to be attached to the foam foreend and foam buttstock.

 

[tacks]

@hpmr , great work and thanks for sharing.

For your sake 85 stock, did you also sacrifice a Sako stock mid section for the bedding?

I was thinking over how I'd accomplish this for a Tikka and do the bedding portion. It seems it might be easiest using using a Tikka factory synthetic stock and chopping the bedding section out to be attached to the foam foreend and foam buttstock.

I am just starting a Tikka now myself. Tried JB weld and it does not stick to the stock even after sanding. I have some JB Plastic on order to try and will try the epoxy and CF to see hold it will hold.

 

[hpmr]

@hpmr , great work and thanks for sharing.

For your sake 85 stock, did you also sacrifice a Sako stock mid section for the bedding?

I was thinking over how I'd accomplish this for a Tikka and do the bedding portion. It seems it might be easiest using using a Tikka factory synthetic stock and chopping the bedding section out to be attached to the foam foreend and foam buttstock.

Yup, I used a beaten up Sako synthetic stock as a donor. Saved me the hassle of inletting, and combined with multiple carbon fiber layers its a really rigid frame for the action.

Spare tikka stocks shouldn’t be a problem to get hold of

 

[hpmr]

I am just starting a Tikka now myself. Tried JB weld and it does not stick to the stock even after sanding. I have some JB Plastic on order to try and will try the epoxy and CF to see hold it will hold.

I haven’t tried epoxy on a tikka stock yet, but I recon the plastic composition would be similar to a Sako as its kinda the same company (or is it more oily?) On both the Sako and Blaser stocks I got a great weld with the foam using this Loctite epoxy:



(This epoxy is my favoruite for bedding as well, as is doesn’t run).

 

[Stocky]

I haven’t tried epoxy on a tikka stock yet, but I recon the plastic composition would be similar to a Sako as its kinda the same company (or is it more oily?) On both the Sako and Blaser stocks I got a great weld with the foam using this Loctite epoxy:

View attachment 996204

(This epoxy is my favoruite for bedding as well, as is doesn’t run).

Come on enlighten us on the stock youve got on the go

 

[HighUintas]

I haven’t tried epoxy on a tikka stock yet, but I recon the plastic composition would be similar to a Sako as its kinda the same company (or is it more oily?) On both the Sako and Blaser stocks I got a great weld with the foam using this Loctite epoxy:

View attachment 996204

(This epoxy is my favoruite for bedding as well, as is doesn’t run).

There has been some information passed around in the past, that epoxy doesn't stick well to Tikka stocks due to the composition. The guy from Ballistics Studies website says if you use a soldering iron to disturb the surface and burn out some of whatever it is that prevents adhesion, it sticks pretty well. I haven't tried it yet.

Do you have any pictures of how you attached the Sako stock section to the foam? I've been mulling over how I'd do it with a Tikka and haven't come up with any mechanical solutions yet. Only the idea of epoxying the cut surfaces together.

 

[hpmr]

I’m afraid I don’t have any pictures of that exact process for the Sako, but I followed the same method as I described in this post - post #62.

As my foam sandwich is 3x 20mm foam plates with carbon fiber cloth in between, I leave a 20 mm wide «peg» of the stock that I anchor into the core block with epoxy (after removing core material similar to the size and shape of the peg from the mid layer/ second plate). This ensures that the stock section also binds to the two carbon fiber layers in the foam.

Roughening up the stock section and cleaning it with aceton also helps for the mechanical binding.

(Hope this description explains more than it confuse, kinda hard without any good pics )

 

[BjornF16]

Did you have any challenges in getting the “system” back into the stock after the cf laydown?

 

[hpmr]

Did you have any challenges in getting the “system” back into the stock after the cf laydown?

The first time I almost f’d it up as I underestimated the force of the vacuum bag pressing/pulling in the sidewalls around the system. Lets just say the Mk 1 had a really, really tight and snug fit

To make sure it doesn’t press the sidewalls in I now put in a piece of foam of the same width of the system/action as a spacer in the gap.

 

[tacks]

Tikka stocks are tough to glue to. I tried JB weld, JB plastic bonder neither held. Gorilla glue held some what. This was after a coarse belt sanding and acetone wipe. Now I am trying epoxy resin and it seems to hold. I have a few drips I cannot get off, but waiting a couple days to try prying apart these.

 

[HighUintas]

I would try a soldering iron or torch on the surfaces for prep. I don't know if it's mainly mechanical lock that does it or if the "burning" out of some substance in the stock helps.

 

[tacks]

I would try a soldering iron or torch on the surfaces for prep. I don't know if it's mainly mechanical lock that does it or if the "burning" out of some substance in the stock helps.

So I tried the JB plastic bonder after sanding then burning with a small torch. It seems to have helped, I pried off the part with a screwdriver. I could not pull it apart by hand. The same with the epoxy resin glued parts that were just sanded and wiped with acetone. I feel good about putting this together, but I plan to drill small holes for more bonding.

 

[Andouille]

So I tried the JB plastic bonder after sanding then burning with a small torch. It seems to have helped, I pried off the part with a screwdriver. I could not pull it apart by hand. The same with the epoxy resin glued parts that were just sanded and wiped with acetone. I feel good about putting this together, but I plan to drill small holes for more bonding.

I've had good success with West G-Flex epoxy on random plastic projects, but I recognize that Tikka/Sako plastic may be a special challenge. I might try a test on an X-bolt stock I have sitting around.

 

[HighUintas]

I have a laminate boyds stock for a Tikka that I needed. It would be a good candidate for this since I hate the stock style. Unfortunately it has a small crack near the front action screw hole that I worry would allow poi shifts.