Cape care in field..

[Panhandler80]

If we are able to connect with a bull, hopefully weather will allow our pilot come get meat, antlers and cape. I have a great spot at house for shoulder mount and it is my objective to go that route.

If weather does not allow, I’ll guess I’ll need to research turning ears and eyelids, splitting lips as well as splitting the dewlap. I have (or had) Larry Bartletts DVD, Wilderness Taxidermy, somewhere at home, and intend to relocate and watch it a few times as schedule allows. A little research online indicates that it does not address splitting the dewlap.

1. How do most folks handle cape in the field, and at what stage do you begin to worry about these tasks?

2. Any recommendation on securing basic protocol for splitting dewlap?

I don’t think we’ll have much excess payload capacity in plane for significant quantity of salt. Best I can tell, other powders and preservation products are generally frowned upon.

So many little things to figure out and take into consideration! Beginning to feel a bit overwhelming.

 

[Mykolaivka887]

Depending on weather, you'll have 36 to 72 hours to get cranking on that moose cape. If it's wet and warm outside, better get on it within 48 hours of time of kill. Best principle is to get on it as quickly as possible, but I would say that after 72 hours, even in dry and cold weather, you're running the risk of spoilage.

Turning the dewlap inside out is basically the same as turning the ears inside out. I use the ground point of my ice axe as a tool to insert into the hair side, to push against, and then use my 3-inch blade field knife and/or my skinner (knife) to separate the two "halves" of the flesh side. The dewlap goes pretty quick and isn't difficult to turn inside out, like a sock.

One thing you'll definitely want to do on a moose, is turn the nose. That takes some time. A moose nose is somewhat complicated - lots of valves and cartilage. But, nothing like a ton of salt dumped there if you don't get it turned all the way. Ditto for the lips [be sure to turn the lips as far as possible, all the way around the mouth].

And be sure to turn the eyes on a moose. Last thing you want in the finished taxidermy project is a mount that's missing eyelashes (lol).

Flesh everything real good and cut cross thatches (cross hatched cuts) where hide seems thickest, so that salt penetrates to the hair roots best and shrinks the hide effectively.

I use an entire 25 lb bag of salt on a moose cape, being especially judicious around the nose, lips, eyes and ears.

 

[Chirogrow]

I've talked with some people that have said you don't need to salt the cape unless the cape can't get picked up for a few days. I've always taken salt in the field but it would be nice for the pack weight to leave it out. I'm curious what others say on your topic!

 

[Larry Bartlett]

I'm an advocate for no salt in the field unless it's warm weather. September weather has, in 26 years, been adequate for field care on hides without the need to salt green capes. The key is keep drying the hide, working the fleshing job and splitting all the parts as Mykolav suggested. Good points he made.

The salt isn't desirable on the face before proper fleshing is complete because it super dries some areas. It'll take the average untrained flesher many days (3-5) to finish a moose cape, which should be done before salting. The best approach is to dry the hide with wind and shade, treat it as a "spoilage threat" same as meat. Unless you shoot one on day 2, you wont be ready for salt until a week in...by then you'll be close to headed out. Agreed 25-lbs is about right for proper salt on a moose cape, but 25-lbs of salt coupled with a shitty rushed or lazy fleshing job and your taxidermist won't be impressed anyway.

 

[Adventurfreak]

I'm an advocate for no salt in the field unless it's warm weather. September weather has, in 26 years, been adequate for field care on hides without the need to salt green capes. The key is keep drying the hide, working the fleshing job and splitting all the parts as Mykolav suggested. Good points he made.

The salt isn't desirable on the face before proper fleshing is complete because it super dries some areas. It'll take the average untrained flesher many days (3-5) to finish a moose cape, which should be done before salting. The best approach is to dry the hide with wind and shade, treat it as a "spoilage threat" same as meat. Unless you shoot one on day 2, you wont be ready for salt until a week in...by then you'll be close to headed out. Agreed 25-lbs is about right for proper salt on a moose cape, but 25-lbs of salt coupled with a shitty rushed or lazy fleshing job and your taxidermist won't be impressed anyway.

Thanks for the input! I took a black bear this year in Alaska and our pilot told us to keep it with the fur side up and the flesh down. I thought it would be better the opposite way but we did as instructed and the taxidermist said it was ok. How do you position the hide to help dry them?

 

[Panhandler80]

I'm an advocate for no salt in the field unless it's warm weather. September weather has, in 26 years, been adequate for field care on hides without the need to salt green capes. The key is keep drying the hide, working the fleshing job and splitting all the parts as Mykolav suggested. Good points he made.

The salt isn't desirable on the face before proper fleshing is complete because it super dries some areas. It'll take the average untrained flesher many days (3-5) to finish a moose cape, which should be done before salting. The best approach is to dry the hide with wind and shade, treat it as a "spoilage threat" same as meat. Unless you shoot one on day 2, you wont be ready for salt until a week in...by then you'll be close to headed out. Agreed 25-lbs is about right for proper salt on a moose cape, but 25-lbs of salt coupled with a shitty rushed or lazy fleshing job and your taxidermist won't be impressed anyway.

If kept dry and cool, and IF pilot can be there in 24 - 48 hours, is proper and complete turning still necessary?

3-5 days spent fleshing for inexperienced guy is not an option for us.

 

[Mykolaivka887]

If kept dry and cool, and IF pilot can be there in 24 - 48 hours, is proper and complete turning still necessary?

3-5 days spent fleshing for inexperienced guy is not an option for us.

First moose cape I ever did (turned and fleshed) when I was 16 years old, took me about 12 hours over two days. I had an outfitter (my boss) who checked on my progress a few times during those two days and that helped motivate me to move along a little faster (lol). But four or five days to do a moose cape? You got to be kidding me ....

Anyway, in reference to your question about getting the green (unturned and unfleshed) cape out of the field and into a freezer within 72 hours from time of kill, that's the best way to do things, for a lot of reasons. That's what I do nowadays - out of the field and into a freezer within 36 to 48 hours - rather than taking time away from more hunting to sit on a rock and turn an 80 lb moose cape spread across my lap.

 

[Overdrive]

Have you looked into taking along something like Stop Rot? You can buy it from a taxidermy supply website. Flesh off the big chunks of meat and fat, turn lips,eyes,ears and nose and treat with Stop Rot to help kill any bacteria.

Just fyi turn ears in the field can be quite the job if you don't take ear pliers with you. If you have time before your trip go volunteer your time with your taxidermist to learn how to turn everything before your trip.

 

[Panhandler80]

Have you looked into taking along something like Stop Rot? You can buy it from a taxidermy supply website. Flesh off the big chunks of meat and fat, turn lips,eyes,ears and nose and treat with Stop Rot to help kill any bacteria.

Just fyi turn ears in the field can be quite the job if you don't take ear pliers with you. If you have time before your trip go volunteer your time with your taxidermist to learn how to turn everything before your trip.

Have read some mixed opinions on stop rot. Not ruling that out though.

Yeah, those ear pliers would be nice to have. Watching process would be nice! Need to look into that as in person be a lot better than videos.

 

[Mykolaivka887]

Yeah, those ear pliers would be nice to have. Watching process would be nice! Need to look into that as in person be a lot better than videos.

With merely a 3-inch pointed blade knife and an ice axe or sharpened stick, it takes me about 40 or maybe 45 minutes to turn and flesh a moose ear. It isn't that difficult. Ear pliars are a luxury, but that's all they are. In the field, you don't need them. Go to a local taxidermy shop near you and ask the taxidermist to turn a hog ear or bear ear or coyote ear for you, as an example. You'll get the hang of it. It ain't brain surgery .....

 

[Overdrive]

Have read some mixed opinions on stop rot. Not ruling that out though.

Yeah, those ear pliers would be nice to have. Watching process would be nice! Need to look into that as in person be a lot better than videos.

There's another product I use too, it's called 4 in 1 available thru Bess Maid, works very well, I've done taxidermy work over the years and trust it.

For the little expense the ear pliers are worth it, I can turn ears in a minute or two, all your really doing is separating the hair and skin on the back of the ear from the cartilage, the cartilage stays in for the tanning process. Start to finish on a Moose cape will take me about 2 1/2-3 hours, from caped off skull to salting. I don't do as much taxidermy anymore but I'm glad I learned the skill to use.

 

[Panhandler80]

There's another product I use too, it's called 4 in 1 available thru Bess Maid, works very well, I've done taxidermy work over the years and trust it.

For the little expense the ear pliers are worth it, I can turn ears in a minute or two, all your really doing is separating the hair and skin on the back of the ear from the cartilage, the cartilage stays in for the tanning process. Start to finish on a Moose cape will take me about 2 1/2-3 hours, from caped off skull to salting. I don't do as much taxidermy anymore but I'm glad I learned the skill to use.

After watching a couple videos 2-3x it FINALLY dawned on me that the hair and skin inside the ear stays put. Makes a lot more sense…. Guess I’m not a very quick learner.

 

[diamond10x]

As long as you cut off meat and fat, keep the hide shaded, dry, and cool (air flow getting to it) you don’t have anyThing to worry about. You can keep it for well over a week out there. 2 years ago we killed a bull on day 4 and didn’t get picked up until day 16. Never turned eyes, ears, lips. That bull now sits above my dads fireplace and that hide looks as good as the day it was killed. You’re way overthinking it.

 

[mtnbiker208]

If kept dry and cool, and IF pilot can be there in 24 - 48 hours, is proper and complete turning still necessary?

3-5 days spent fleshing for inexperienced guy is not an option for us.

you can always buy a cape. They are not that expensive. Talk to your taxidermist ahead of time.

 

[Panhandler80]

you can always buy a cape. They are not that expensive. Talk to your taxidermist ahead of time.

Just doesn’t seem the same. And even then I’m relying it having been properly cared for. Not a bad idea, though. Would simplify some things.

 

[Mykolaivka887]

You're way over-thinking the cape equation of your possible/potential hunt. But, it's not a bad idea to learn trophy care for all future big game hunts anywhere in the United States. It'll save you from anxiety and creating another similar threas in the future - i.e.; "Going on a backpack early season elk hunt - how do I take care of the cape!" (lol)

 

[kwackkillncrew]

Worst comes to worst you destroy the Cape. Save a couple bucks and get a euro. They look way better then shoulder mounts anyways

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[Panhandler80]

Worst comes to worst you destroy the Cape. Save a couple bucks and get a euro. They look way better then shoulder mounts anyways

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I’m with ya. I just have a spot in this house that is begging for a shoulder. And the way I’m getting meat, antlers and cape home is flat rate. Id like to at least try and take care of it for shoulder mount.

 

[Larry Bartlett]

I used to be an advocate for a product called TTC (Total Taxidermy Care). It ain't preferred by taxidermists that I know who have had to work my R&D hides after its use, so it's a thing of the past. If you use it, do so only on the body of the hide never the face or head. The skin is too thin for this stuff and it dries weirdly and ununiformly It super dries the fleshed parts and borders which makes it harder and more frustrating for the artist to his best work.

Man, think of our ancestors who pioneered the wilderness without refrig units and air cargo. Salt was gold and most did without it by fleshing and drying and keeping it cool 'till it dried.

If you don't have 3-5 days to work on a hide, don't plan to bring one back. If I may offer a safer and more pragmatic approach by buying a cape from a taxidermist and only bringing your antlers home with the meat dealt with legally. This way you skip the labor intensive part of the ordeal, like salt and time?

 

[Larry Bartlett]

flesh side down hide up so the hair acts as a heat shield and the wind and gravity does the rest.