Camper vs Enclosed Trailer, forest road worthy

[SouthernCharm]

Thinking about going back to a “hunting camp” trailer. I’ve had single axle hard side, pop ups and used my enclosed trailer once. I’m ok with them all and currently don’t own a sxs.

My question, which trailer will have the best suspension for traveling down forest roads with gravel, wash out, cobble stone rock road, etc? Today, it seems that the enclosed trailer are better made than the current travel trailers and use better or more industrial standard components that are readily available. It would be a dual axle unless I go with the jumping jack version which I doubt. Thanks for looking and providing feedback.

 

[Ringbill27]

As for best suspension I don’t know. BUT! One observation I’ve made is many new campers seem to have a lot of clearance these days. Definitely more than an enclosed trailer would have.

 

[wowzers]

I've taken my enclosed trailer down some goat trails. I don't think I could go back to a camper.

 

[BCsteve]

As for best suspension I don’t know. BUT! One observation I’ve made is many new campers seem to have a lot of clearance these days. Definitely more than an enclosed trailer would have.

Just make sure you don't get a cargo trailer with a drop axle. Get a straight axle.

 

[Chase0109]

I’m biased, but I would vote for building out and enclosed cargo trailer. If you’d like to tinker and want it exactly to your specs. That’s the way to go. Built better and will hold up a lot longer. Turn key you’re better off buying an RV.

I just placed a deposit for my fourth enclosed trailer. All of them order direct from the manufacturer, built to my specs. Then I finish them to camp/live out of.

If you decide to go with an enclosed trailer. As mentioned above, go with a straight axle and I’d recommend upgrading your axle to at least 6000 pound axles with 16 inch tires. That will give you extra ground clearance. I’d also add a pair of boogie wheels to the back. Make sure whatever brand you go with is 16” OC floor/wall/roof.

I can go on forever about all the things I’ve learned. But to answer your question on suspension, my personal choice is this:

AllTrek 4000™ – MORryde

morryde.com

I put the moryde CRE 3000s on both of my older trailers. I’m putting the 4000s on both of my new trailers. They make a world of difference in suspension. I’d recommend upgrading to these even if you went the RV route.

Chase

 

[SouthernCharm]

Thank you, especially about the suspension. I’m leaning more towards an enclosed cargo system in 16’ length. Just myself.

 

[BLJ]

I’m biased, but I would vote for building out and enclosed cargo trailer. If you’d like to tinker and want it exactly to your specs. That’s the way to go. Built better and will hold up a lot longer. Turn key you’re better off buying an RV.

I just placed a deposit for my fourth enclosed trailer. All of them order direct from the manufacturer, built to my specs. Then I finish them to camp/live out of.

If you decide to go with an enclosed trailer. As mentioned above, go with a straight axle and I’d recommend upgrading your axle to at least 6000 pound axles with 16 inch tires. That will give you extra ground clearance. I’d also add a pair of boogie wheels to the back. Make sure whatever brand you go with is 16” OC floor/wall/roof.

I can go on forever about all the things I’ve learned. But to answer your question on suspension, my personal choice is this:

AllTrek 4000™ – MORryde

morryde.com

I put the moryde CRE 3000s on both of my older trailers. I’m putting the 4000s on both of my new trailers. They make a world of difference in suspension. I’d recommend upgrading to these even if you went the RV route.

Chase

Who you buying from?

 

[fmyth]

As for best suspension I don’t know. BUT! One observation I’ve made is many new campers seem to have a lot of clearance these days. Definitely more than an enclosed trailer would have.

But they have beer can thick frames and shitty welds. I broke the frame on my brand new 2014 Eclipse Iconic toy hauler on its first trip crossing railroad tracks on a state highway. Broke the frame on my 2017 Genesis Supreme toy hauler when I hit the transition from asphalt to surfaced asphalt between Baggs WY and Craig CO. The frames under 90% of RV trailers are all made by Lippert and are crap. When you see that the builder used self tapping screws to attach the wiring harness to the frame I beams you can bet the frame isn't going to take much abuse.

 

[Chase0109]

Who you buying from?

I’ve ordered all 4 of mine from Diamond cargo in Georgia.

Cargo Trailers For Sale| Diamond Cargo| Factory Pickup

Cargo Trailers For Sale | Best Value Enclosed Cargo Trailers@Lowest Price from Factory Authorized Rep! Build Enclosed Trailers Quote in 5 Minutes or Less!

www.diamondcargotrailers.org

Good prices. They come standard with a lot of the things the other companies want up charge you for. 16” OC floors/wall/ceiling, .080 poly sheeting (much better than std alum sheeting) led lights, ect at no up charge.

You can pretty much order anything you want.

Just put down a deposit yesterday on my new hunting rig. If you’re looking to order a trailer, I can give you the name and number of one of their reps who I’ve ordered from. He’s done a great job on my last two trailer orders getting everything the way I want it. Feel free to PM me if you want.

 

[Chase0109]

Thank you, especially about the suspension. I’m leaning more towards an enclosed cargo system in 16’ length. Just myself.

No problem. I’ve spent more time thinking about and planning out trailer builds then I’d like to admit lol.

I just ordered a new 7 X 18 X 7.5 feet tall TA trailer. Straight 6000 pound axles, 16 inch wheels, boogie wheels on the back, upgraded 3000lb ramp, RV style door, wire brace for AC, electrical package, 5’ extended tongue, etc.

This will replace my current hunting cargo trailer That’s a 2016. Needed the extra height and heavier duty ramp for my UTV. Plus, there’s things you learn after each build that you’d like to do different lol. So this new build will incorporate all of the things I’ve learned and wanted to change.

Few pics of my 2025 toy hauler trailer I’m building for work. I will live out of it 6–8 months a year on jobs. Work in progress as I need to actually be home for more than a couple days at a time. Only been home for 2 weeks since picking it up at the dealer in May.

Hopefully have it completely finished by February 1. I ran the electrical, had it spray foamed, and got it sheeted 1/2” on the ceiling, 3/4” on the walls. Still have to do all the internal finishing when I get back home.

 

[wihunter1]

No problem. I’ve spent more time thinking about and planning out trailer builds then I’d like to admit lol.

I just ordered a new 7 X 18 X 7.5 feet tall TA trailer. Straight 6000 pound axles, 16 inch wheels, boogie wheels on the back, upgraded 3000lb ramp, RV style door, wire brace for AC, electrical package, 5’ extended tongue, etc.

This will replace my current hunting cargo trailer That’s a 2016. Needed the extra height and heavier duty ramp for my UTV. Plus, there’s things you learn after each build that you’d like to do different lol. So this new build will incorporate all of the things I’ve learned and wanted to change.

Few pics of my 2025 toy hauler trailer I’m building for work. I will live out of it 6–8 months a year on jobs. Work in progress as I need to actually be home for more than a couple days at a time. Only been home for 2 weeks since picking it up at the dealer in May.

Hopefully have it completely finished by February 1. I ran the electrical, had it spray foamed, and got it sheeted 1/2” on the ceiling, 3/4” on the walls. Still have to do all the internal finishing when I get back home.

How do you plan on heating this? I'm brainstorming a build for this years rifle hunt.

 

[Chase0109]

How do you plan on heating this? I'm brainstorming a build for this years rifle hunt.

I use a combo of options. Because I drive power boost trucks. The easy button is just to plug into my trucks 7.2 K generator and run an electric space heater as needed. Plus that powers everything else in the trailer. I use that primarily during my work season, but I also use it on my hunting camper to run lights, sink, water pump/heater, space heater, microwave, etc., in the evenings at camp.

But probably more to your point. Non-electric heat. In my previous 7 x 16 build I used a propane heat exchanger mounted underneath the trailer piping the hot air inside via PVC pipe on the floor with a couple inlet ports.

For my new hunting trailer build. I’m going to go with a diesel heater. This is the one I plan on going with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0D66FZQ94/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A3URSDBRXIXOQ9&psc=1

Diesel heaters have gotten much more cost-effective, with better reliability over the last five years. So I don’t see any reason to go with anything else.

I value efficiency and organization. So I haven’t decided yet if I’m going to put a generator mount that sits above the propane tanks on the tongue and keep the diesel heater there permanently, or just throw it in the bed of the UT and have to pull it off each time I use it. Probably the former lol.

One strong suggestion I would make if you are ordering a trailer. Get the extended 5 foot tongue. This will give you enough room to mount your propane tanks, generator rack, +2 aluminum toolboxes to the front V. And still plenty of clearance. That way you can put a bunch of gear up there and not have to put things in totes that clutter up the interior of the trailer.

Last note, if you’re planning on using this for cold weather hunting camp make sure you insulate it well. I did 1 inch in the walls with 1/4” fan fold over the top as a thermal barrier between the studs and plywood. I screwed 2x2’s on the ceiling studs to put in 2.5”insulation on the ceiling. And I had the undercarriage of the trailer spray foamed as well. I run a 50 gallon water tank inside so I don’t have to worry about heating/freeze up running and exterior undercarriage water tank.

Chase

 

[CMF]

I put the moryde CRE 3000s on both of my older trailers. I’m putting the 4000s on both of my new trailers. They make a world of difference in suspension. I’d recommend upgrading to these even if you went the RV route.

Chase

I've gone away from Moryde, I've cracked 4 CRE 300's, they warrantied them, but they don't hold up.

The frames under 90% of RV trailers are all made by Lippert and are crap. When you see that the builder used self tapping screws to attach the wiring harness to the frame I beams you can bet the frame isn't going to take much abuse.

Agree

I'd go cargo trailer and build out, thats my next move once I'm out of my fifthwheel camper.

Either way you go, you can add an aftermarket shock kit. I'd also consider adding cross-braces to your frame at the equalizers, especially on a camper frame.