Camper vs Enclosed Trailer, forest road worthy

SouthernCharm

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Messages
153
Thinking about going back to a “hunting camp” trailer. I’ve had single axle hard side, pop ups and used my enclosed trailer once. I’m ok with them all and currently don’t own a sxs.

My question, which trailer will have the best suspension for traveling down forest roads with gravel, wash out, cobble stone rock road, etc? Today, it seems that the enclosed trailer are better made than the current travel trailers and use better or more industrial standard components that are readily available. It would be a dual axle unless I go with the jumping jack version which I doubt. Thanks for looking and providing feedback.
 
As for best suspension I don’t know. BUT! One observation I’ve made is many new campers seem to have a lot of clearance these days. Definitely more than an enclosed trailer would have.
 
I’m biased, but I would vote for building out and enclosed cargo trailer. If you’d like to tinker and want it exactly to your specs. That’s the way to go. Built better and will hold up a lot longer. Turn key you’re better off buying an RV.

I just placed a deposit for my fourth enclosed trailer. All of them order direct from the manufacturer, built to my specs. Then I finish them to camp/live out of.

If you decide to go with an enclosed trailer. As mentioned above, go with a straight axle and I’d recommend upgrading your axle to at least 6000 pound axles with 16 inch tires. That will give you extra ground clearance. I’d also add a pair of boogie wheels to the back. Make sure whatever brand you go with is 16” OC floor/wall/roof.

I can go on forever about all the things I’ve learned. But to answer your question on suspension, my personal choice is this:

I put the moryde CRE 3000s on both of my older trailers. I’m putting the 4000s on both of my new trailers. They make a world of difference in suspension. I’d recommend upgrading to these even if you went the RV route.

Chase
 
Thank you, especially about the suspension. I’m leaning more towards an enclosed cargo system in 16’ length. Just myself.
 
I’m biased, but I would vote for building out and enclosed cargo trailer. If you’d like to tinker and want it exactly to your specs. That’s the way to go. Built better and will hold up a lot longer. Turn key you’re better off buying an RV.

I just placed a deposit for my fourth enclosed trailer. All of them order direct from the manufacturer, built to my specs. Then I finish them to camp/live out of.

If you decide to go with an enclosed trailer. As mentioned above, go with a straight axle and I’d recommend upgrading your axle to at least 6000 pound axles with 16 inch tires. That will give you extra ground clearance. I’d also add a pair of boogie wheels to the back. Make sure whatever brand you go with is 16” OC floor/wall/roof.

I can go on forever about all the things I’ve learned. But to answer your question on suspension, my personal choice is this:

I put the moryde CRE 3000s on both of my older trailers. I’m putting the 4000s on both of my new trailers. They make a world of difference in suspension. I’d recommend upgrading to these even if you went the RV route.

Chase
Who you buying from?
 
As for best suspension I don’t know. BUT! One observation I’ve made is many new campers seem to have a lot of clearance these days. Definitely more than an enclosed trailer would have.
But they have beer can thick frames and shitty welds. I broke the frame on my brand new 2014 Eclipse Iconic toy hauler on its first trip crossing railroad tracks on a state highway. Broke the frame on my 2017 Genesis Supreme toy hauler when I hit the transition from asphalt to surfaced asphalt between Baggs WY and Craig CO. The frames under 90% of RV trailers are all made by Lippert and are crap. When you see that the builder used self tapping screws to attach the wiring harness to the frame I beams you can bet the frame isn't going to take much abuse.
 
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