Cabin Build

Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
557
Going to try to build a cabin in the next couple years. I will try to get a slab poured yet this year and shell it up next year. Not in a hurry, going to make a project of it and take my time to do it right. Either one bedroom and a loft, or two bedroom on one level.

Going to try to spend less than $25,000 or so. We would like to do something unique, interesting, stylish and would rather spend the money on amenities than footprint.

Please share any cool ideas, pics, insights, hints whether its construction, landscaping, or decorating . ALL INPUT IS WELCOME!

Example: "slab" tables or countertops, unique window placement, etc
 

scp

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 29, 2019
Messages
207
Location
North Pole, AK
Love it, and will be following along in jealousy and admiration. If you need some motivation to help with planning, read this awesome book (or read it again because it’s so good!).

One Man’s Wilderness: An Alaskan Odyssey, by Richard Proenneke and Sam Keith. Also a video series entitled ‘Alone in the Wilderness.’

No ideas for you (since I’m about as bad with a hammer as you’d ever want to be), but good luck!
 

sram9102

WKR
Joined
Oct 31, 2018
Messages
1,036
Location
IN
I've always wanted to put a false wall/hidden room somewhere in our house. We just haven't done any projects that were large enough to slip one in yet.
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,730
Location
Shenandoah Valley
I built cabins for several years, well mostly reassembled. Took them down and put them back up. Log cabins were the original trailers. Most that I tore down had marks from where they had been moved before. Most I was putting back up for at least the 3rd time from what I could tell.

Location is going to have a lot to do with what your options are.

I'll second that "Alone in the wilderness" is a good watch. If it's film I'm thinking of. Old guy went to Alaska and built his own cabin with a few hand tools.
 

KClark

WKR
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
479
Location
Oleta
What is your goal for square footage at ground level? Not a fan of cabins on slab, they stay drier on stem wall or elevated footings. What are you looking at for building codes?

Check out Cabin Porn on Instagram, hundreds of cool ideas there.

Cabin Porn
 
OP
timberland
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
557
Unique? How about cordwood construction.
Only familiar with one cordwood, and the wood had shrunk leaving a lot of little gaps. Plus high maintenance. I might consider an interior wall though
 
OP
timberland
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
557
What is your goal for square footage at ground level? Not a fan of cabins on slab, they stay drier on stem wall or elevated footings. What are you looking at for building codes?

Check out Cabin Porn on Instagram, hundreds of cool ideas there.

Cabin Porn
I agree about the slab, and we are on slope, so we might do a 3 course block crawl space foundation. I can put my own well in and I can get a sanitary permit with a composting toilet, with building permit to follow. There are dwelling codes, but are fairly easy to work with as there is no electricity and wood heat.

Thanks for the link!
Looking at 1000 sq ft give or take. One bath, utility room (solar system) small kitchen
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
679
Location
NE MO
I was in a cabin that had a window made from square amber bottles stacked and grouted in. Looked pretty cool.
 

CX5Ranch

WKR
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Messages
397
I have sawn out many a cabin and barn on on the spot
bd2cb40924c53e0434dd721194357df9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

benh

FNG
Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
3
I've built a few of them. One I did on the peninsula of Alaska on the south end of Bristol bay. I'd shy away from slab if possible, but floor and roof packages are the bulk of the cost for the structure shell. The AK cabin we used helical pier screw in foundation with adjustable beam saddles and then just rolled the floor on that and then shipped in logs/timbers for the rest of the structure. If you're trying to stay economical, I think the helical pier foundation, and A-frame construction would be the way to go. No concrete, still have the benefits of a crawl space for utilities and not as cold of a floor (assuming no radiant floor heat). Long roof overhangs really help with maintenance keeping snow/rain and sun off the structure. Keep maintenance costs in mind with materials too, wood has a low entry cost, but a high cost with frequent maintenance. For the structure, I'd use rough sawn lumber that you buy straight from the mill (not the lumberyard). It's usually not very precise, but good enough and WAY cheaper. I've bought a bunch from companies that mill mine and excavation shoring timbers; it does take extra carpentry labor to make those work though.

I'm a structural engineer/contractor and a former carpenter, PM if you have any other questions.
 

KClark

WKR
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
479
Location
Oleta
Long roof overhangs really help with maintenance keeping snow/rain and sun off the structure.

Ditto this. Most 100 year old cabins have survived because of having long overhangs finished correctly.
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
2,857
Location
West Virginia
Concrete slabs really contribute to relative humidity inside any structure due to water transportation up through the slab. From the ground. If you do use a slab, check the international building code for the recommended mil thickness of plastic to put between it and the gravel bed below it, for the region of the country you intend to build it. Forget about pouring a slab without a gravel bed too.

Personally, for a cabin, pour a footer or piers and put it off the ground. Yes, it contributes to harder to heat but, concrete slabs are a whole mess themselves when it comes to plumbing and flooring. Concrete isn't cheap either
 
OP
timberland
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
557
Where are you going to build (state, area, etc.)? Also, what type of construction are you thinking of doing (stick frame, log, etc.)?
Will be building in NW WI. Looks like I can do a block crawlspace with joist deck cheaper than a slab anyway. Or I could run lvl stringers and tji joists on posts also. I like the crawlspace better for keeping out bugs and rodents. I don't think I can use non-certified lumber because of building codes
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
Messages
1,258
Advanced framing techniques can cut down on lumber while increasing overall r-value.


Depending on the site, there is a lot that can be done with the design for passive heating and cooling. A trombe wall that incorporates colored glass bottles could be nice. A functioning clerestory window with overhang could gain heat in winter, vent in the summer.

This website has some good ideas for off grid systems.

As does this one.

On a small foot print, you need to maximize usability and minimize wasted space. Try to eliminate hallways from the design if you can.
 
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