Bushnell LRTSi 4.5-18x44 Drop test/mini eval

[BjornF16]

That’s why it’s a good thing for people to do there own- they get to see there entire rifle system at play, find the shortcoming, and if they keep doing it eventually get to a point where the rifle system- action, barrel, stock, mounts, and scope; all stay zeroed regardless of use. Yes your doubling your own rifle and there is no doubt variables with your system (stock/mounts), however, you are learning what will actually happen with your rifle based on that.

Form

For your backcountry hunting rifle, presumably Tikka 6.5CM, can you discuss what you do for verifying reliability/ability to hold zero?

Any particular components, bedding, etc.

Thanks,

Edit: I'm assuming the CTR .308 you're using for scope evals is not what you hunt with...just evaluate scopes (and maybe a few other tasks).

 

[Formidilosus]

Form

For your backcountry hunting rifle, presumably Tikka 6.5CM, can you discuss what you do for verifying reliability/ability to hold zero?

Any particular components, bedding, etc.

Thanks,

Aggressively free floated barrel channel, generally bed the lug and tang, degrease, loctite and torque action screws to 65 in-lbs. Degrease, loctite and torque Sportsmatch rings to 65 in-lbs base, 25 in-lbs rings screws. Bedding the tang and lug isn’t usually necessary, but some individual T3’s would have a .2-.3 mil shift without it. Doing this and using a NF for instance keeps the rifle system on a 1.5 moa target even with drops from 36”.

Then I check it if it is an unknown scope by dropping it.

Edit: I'm assuming the CTR .308 you're using for scope evals is not what you hunt with...just evaluate scopes (and maybe a few other tasks).

The 308 doesn’t get used for hunting much, however a bunch of us use the KRG Bravo chassis on hunting rifles. Everything is the same as above, however there have been no detectable shifts compared to the same rifle in normal stocks.

 

[BjornF16]

The 308 doesn’t get used for hunting much, however a bunch of us use the KRG Bravo chassis on hunting rifles. Everything is the same as above, however there have been no detectable shifts compared to the same rifle in normal stocks.

My KRG Bravo arrives today...

Just drop in and bolt up?...no bedding?

 

[Formidilosus]

My KRG Bravo arrives today...

Just drop in and bolt up?...no bedding?

Correct. Degrease, loctite, torque.

You actually can do the full drop eval and have no shifts without bonding the action. However, bonding it just takes away one more excuse people can use when their favorite scopes loses zero.

 

[BjornF16]

Correct. Degrease, loctite, torque.

You actually can do the full drop eval and have no shifts without bonding the action. However, bonding it just takes away one more excuse people can use when their favorite scopes loses zero.

Have you looked at any of the lighter chassis systems for backcountry hunting?

XLR Element 4.0 Magnesium, MDT HNT26?

 

[Formidilosus]

Have you looked at any of the lighter chassis systems for backcountry hunting?

XLR Element 4.0 Magnesium, MDT HNT26?

Yes. However I do not prefer full pistol grips with bolt guns for general use, and the full metal chassis suck in the cold.

 

[BjornF16]

Correct. Degrease, loctite, torque.

You actually can do the full drop eval and have no shifts without bonding the action. However, bonding it just takes away one more excuse people can use when their favorite scopes loses zero.

Also...freakin' hard ground here where I live including the ranges I shoot at (hard clay, as bad as concrete).

What would you add for padding in that case?

 

[Formidilosus]

Also...freakin' hard ground here where I live including the ranges I shoot at (hard clay, as bad as concrete).

What would you add for padding in that case?

A couple of 1/2 inch padded foam sleeping mats will show if you have a major issue with scopes that are known entities.

 

[eric1115]

Think of a very basic roll of a multi-sided die (number of sides purposely left out of the example). If you roll an 8, you'd be a moron to say all rolls in the future will be an 8.

I don't think that's a good representation of what is being argued. It would be more like, you just sold a nice custom rifle and received an envelope with 50 $100 bills. The first one you check with one of those pens shows to be counterfeit. It seems like your position is that going 0 for 1 right out of the gate should have no impact on your level of confidence that the other 49 are legit? Or am I misunderstanding your argument?

 

[sndmn11]

Here is two sets of ten shots, no adjustments from Sunday. Comparing to the hot/cold LRTS group 2x2 shots on Sunday, I moved things .1 mil right.

 

[JollyRoger]

Here is two sets of ten shots, no adjustments from Sunday. Comparing to the hot/cold LRTS group 2x2 shots on Sunday, I moved things .1 mil right.
View attachment 379186

1.5” ish for the whole group?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sndmn11]

1.5” ish for the whole group?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that is fair. I really don't know and haven't cared much to learn how to properly measure a group, but I know the radius of the green is 1.5", diameter is 3".

 

[Wrench]

You can take outside to outside minus bullet diameter.....or inside to outside, both will give you center to center.

 

[sndmn11]

You can take outside to outside minus bullet diameter.....or inside to outside, both will give you center to center.

It's that simple, just the two furthest apart? For some reason I thought you'd have the take the center point of line, and then a compass to make sure that all centers lie within.

 

[JollyRoger]

Here you go:

I took the liberty of deciding where all those shots went that were in the ragged hole. The outside points were more important for this I think.
You don’t need the fancy app. I usually just measure the two furthest points.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sandstrom]

Aggressively free floated barrel channel, generally bed the lug and tang, degrease, loctite and torque action screws to 65 in-lbs. Degrease, loctite and torque Sportsmatch rings to 65 in-lbs base, 25 in-lbs rings screws. Bedding the tang and lug isn’t usually necessary, but some individual T3’s would have a .2-.3 mil shift without it. Doing this and using a NF for instance keeps the rifle system on a 1.5 moa target even with drops from 36”.

Then I check it if it is an unknown scope by dropping it.




The 308 doesn’t get used for hunting much, however a bunch of us use the KRG Bravo chassis on hunting rifles. Everything is the same as above, however there have been no detectable shifts compared to the same rifle in normal stocks.

Quick question so I am clear. Do you torque the action screws to 65 in-lbs on the factory tikka synthetic stocks?
Thanks,
Ryan

 

[Formidilosus]

Quick question so I am clear. Do you torque the action screws to 65 in-lbs on the factory tikka synthetic stocks?
Thanks,
Ryan

Yes sir, I do.

 

[sndmn11]

Yes sir, I do.

Someone will ask, your Tikka action screw torque is into the factory plastic bottom, or something else?

 

[prm]

FWIW: Manual spec is 62in/lbs metallic trigger guards or 44in/lbs with plastic trigger guard. T3X TAC A1 is 62. 65 would no doubt be within the margin of error of my Wheeler.

 

[Formidilosus]

Someone will ask, your Tikka action screw torque is into the factory plastic bottom, or something else?

Everything factory. Plastic bottom. 65 in-lbs.

I’ve seen some issues with zero shifts with the factory specs.