Build components for lightweight rifle

@wind gypsy Cause I’d rather not have that be the case. But some times you can’t have your cake and eat it too I guess.
It's the case with every barrel and anything you put on the end of it. Brake, thread protector, suppressor, 10" thick steel or carbon barrel, doesn't matter. You have to re-zero. It would be irresponsible to shoot at anything having not done that.
 
@z987k that’s not really the case, in my hunting setup this year I zeroed the rifle with my suppressor on, then shot groups with it off to check my zero. With that setup my zero shifted an inch which is a common height above zero for people that don’t dial to run. Then I look at the old ballistics app and now I have my distance that I can just shoot to without any dialing using danger space.

If I am going to shoot at distance usually beyond 300 yards I will put my suppressor on range and dial. I am just hoping with the a featherweight barrel we aren’t talking some absurd amount of change.
 
@z987k that’s not really the case, in my hunting setup this year I zeroed the rifle with my suppressor on, then shot groups with it off to check my zero. With that setup my zero shifted an inch which is a common height above zero for people that don’t dial to run. Then I look at the old ballistics app and now I have my distance that I can just shoot to without any dialing using danger space.

If I am going to shoot at distance usually beyond 300 yards I will put my suppressor on range and dial. I am just hoping with the a featherweight barrel we aren’t talking some absurd amount of change.
Clearly it is the case if your POI at 100y shifted an inch. Yes you can math that out, but I wouldn't count on it being the same every time. You owe it to the animals your shooting at to re-zero regardless.
If that's too much to ask, I'd say either run the suppressor 100% of the time(most of us to this, idk why you're hunting without it ever to be honest) or maybe don't use one at all.
If re-checking zero before a hunt after you've made a major change(adding or subtracting anything that touches your barrel is a major change) is too much, maybe don't make that change.
 
So if you take your suppressor off, say to put it in the case then take it out of the case screwing the suppressor back on you re-zero?
 
So if you take your suppressor off, say to put it in the case then take it out of the case screwing the suppressor back on you re-zero?
I do, since there's usually a small poi shift when doing that. In theory there shouldn't be a change, but that'd only be if the suppressor is perfectly balanced, which I don't have a way to check and is unlikely in reality. Or if you could clock it the exact same way every time, but with direct thread, which is what I run on hunting rifles, you can't.
I just don't take them off anymore. Fixes the problem entirely.
 
I guess I have just been lucky on the guns I have shot. But taking the suppressor off for a more portable package then putting it back on when shooting at distance seems to work, granted I’m shooting rocks and not at paper but I don’t see wildly different impacts at similar yardages due to the suppressor not indexing properly every time.

I would be curious to know if you have tried shooting say 300 yards (to lessen atmospheric condition) with the suppressor, removed it, installed it again and shot how much change was there? Was it erratic or repeatable? Would it be noticeable at 100 yards. I’ll have to test this with my 22 creed possibly.
 
I guess I have just been lucky on the guns I have shot. But taking the suppressor off for a more portable package then putting it back on when shooting at distance seems to work, granted I’m shooting rocks and not at paper but I don’t see wildly different impacts at similar yardages due to the suppressor not indexing properly every time.

I would be curious to know if you have tried shooting say 300 yards (to lessen atmospheric condition) with the suppressor, removed it, installed it again and shot how much change was there? Was it erratic or repeatable? Would it be noticeable at 100 yards. I’ll have to test this with my 22 creed possibly.
I'm going to the range this week probably. I'll do this with every rifle I take. And I'll do it at 100y first. Only go further if there's no perceivable change, but I think there will be as there was with my 30-06 when I did it years ago.
 
I guess I have just been lucky on the guns I have shot. But taking the suppressor off for a more portable package then putting it back on when shooting at distance seems to work, granted I’m shooting rocks and not at paper but I don’t see wildly different impacts at similar yardages due to the suppressor not indexing properly every time.

I would be curious to know if you have tried shooting say 300 yards (to lessen atmospheric condition) with the suppressor, removed it, installed it again and shot how much change was there? Was it erratic or repeatable? Would it be noticeable at 100 yards. I’ll have to test this with my 22 creed possibly.

There is also likely a little change in velocity with suppressor on/off and then you have to dick with a thread protector or worry about unprotected muzzle threads. And how does that work with taping a muzzle? Honestly I thought this concern with poi shift was stupid at first but I can see where you’re coming from a bit now. I just wouldn’t want to deal with it.

Id much rather just know dope is what it is, muzzle is taped, and go forth than throw that variable in but i understand a bit more where you’re coming from now. Especially if wanting to use longer barrels.
 
Well I tested taking my suppressor off and on for 12 straight rounds of 22 creedmoor, removing the suppressor each shot and putting it back on.
Three takeaways from this
1. Even with a 22 creedmoor your suppressor gets damn hot.
2. I didn’t see any change in impact other than when I started getting impatient and the mirage was getting bad I did have the group open up but that was more mirage than the suppressor.
3. I know someone is going to say it was the suppressor being removed and it not going to the same zero but for this old boy this test was good enough.

After all that I will be continuing running with the suppressor off and putting it on when the shot calls for it. But I might test it when I land on what pencil thin barrel I get.IMG_1904.jpeg
 
Well I tested taking my suppressor off and on for 12 straight rounds of 22 creedmoor, removing the suppressor each shot and putting it back on.
Three takeaways from this
1. Even with a 22 creedmoor your suppressor gets damn hot.
2. I didn’t see any change in impact other than when I started getting impatient and the mirage was getting bad I did have the group open up but that was more mirage than the suppressor.
3. I know someone is going to say it was the suppressor being removed and it not going to the same zero but for this old boy this test was good enough.

After all that I will be continuing running with the suppressor off and putting it on when the shot calls for it. But I might test it when I land on what pencil thin barrel I get.View attachment 798009
Those are shots with it off and on both in the same group? Direct thread?
 
I shot one in the center with it off, then I shot with it on, removed it, put it back on and shot again, removed it put it back on and shot again. Rinse and repeat for twelve.

Yes it’s a direct thread.
 
I shot one in the center with it off, then I shot with it on, removed it, put it back on and shot again, removed it put it back on and shot again. Rinse and repeat for twelve.

Yes it’s a direct thread.
That's awesome. I forgot to re-zero my 44 with the suppressor off before a hunt and missed a pig at 20 yards, which I couldn't believe. It wasn't even on paper at 25y when I checked it. Quite possible it's the optic, but it's a red dot not a scope.

But like I said before, my 3006 is off way too much with and without the suppressor to do that. I have checked it.
 
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