Broken Sight Bolt in Riser

[Evol]

I just bought a lightly used Hoyt HyperForce (al) and after setting my DL I went to install my site. As I was tightening it, the head of the bolt broke off. I tried to remove it with pliers but it won't budge.

Is this something that my local bow shop can fix or should I be looking elsewhere?

Thanks!

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Here's how I would attack the problem:

Plan A) Clamp a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grips") as tightly as possible on the exposed bolt stub then slowly try to back the bolt out.

Plan B) Grind out a groove across the exposed end of the bolt with a cut-off disc in a Dremel tool or angle grinder then use a flat screwdriver to back the bolt out like you would a flat-head screw. You might want to mask off part of the riser with painter's tape so you don't damage the finish while grinding.

Plan C) Buy a screw extractor kit.

 

[packer58]

Threads are probably galled in the riser, that can happen with steel fasteners in a aluminum riser. Machine shop could probably drill it out and chase the threads...... blue thread locker will help keep that from happening in the future..

 

[Ucsdryder]

I like the groove and flathead idea. You have lots of screw to work with.

I bet you could tack weld something on there as well.

 

[Jethro]

My first try would be mini needle nose vise grips

 

[Scrappy]

DON'T TOUCH IT AGAIN UNTIL YOU GET SOME GOOD QUALITY TOOLS TO WORK WITH. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[Brendan]

My opinion is that this isn't a task for a bow shop, more of a machine shop unless you can get it out yourself. Do NOT break that bolt off flush....

If you know someone with a tig welder (looks to be stainless), screw a nut onto the threads (might need to chase them if you've messed them up) then tig weld the nut to the bolt. Then, you've got your new bolt head on there.

 

[Billy Goat]

You were tightening down and it snapped? Did it bottom out? Seems like it.

I wouldn't mess with it with pliers, your making it more difficult to fix.

Know anyone with a drill press? Going to need to drill out the screw and use an extractor, or rethread the hole, depending on if you can find an extractor small enough. Probably going to drill out the screw and chase the threads with a tap. Unless like Brendan said you can still get a nut on it, but I'm doubting that.

 

[Brendan]

Having been there - if you can't EASILY get it to come out with a good set of vice grips, I'd take it to someone unless you've had experience working with this stuff.

Drilling: Definitely don't try and drill it without a drill press like @Billy Goat Suggested. Freehand it's too easy for the bit to "walk" and you want to start small, center it, so it leaves you metal for an extractor to "bite" into. And, you want to be able to re-drill progressively larger if needed without touching the riser.

The tig weld a nut trick does work, and it is probably the best/easiest option (for someone with the tools/skill), because you can size up the nut to go over damaged threads, or run a die over them, and you have a lot of control over the amperage and heat you put into the metal. (And, that heat and metal expansion often helps free stuff ip) But, you need someone with the gear and knows what they're doing so they don't overheat things. I've had that work when drilling / extractors / etc failed, but then again I have a Tig Welder, drill press, band saw, etc downstairs...

 

[Evol]

Yeah this all seems out of my pay grade. I dropped it off at Lancaster to see if they can get it out. I have limited tools, land it wasn’t budging with needle nose pliers I’m hopeful they can get it out. I’ll keep this thread updated.

Thanks everyone.


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[Evol]

You were tightening down and it snapped? Did it bottom out? Seems like it.

I wouldn't mess with it with pliers, your making it more difficult to fix.

Know anyone with a drill press? Going to need to drill out the screw and use an extractor, or rethread the hole, depending on if you can find an extractor small enough. Probably going to drill out the screw and chase the threads with a tap. Unless like Brendan said you can still get a nut on it, but I'm doubting that.

I must have bottomed it out. I bought the sight used and the bolts must have need too long. Not a big deal on my other bow where the other side was open but this one doesn’t have that.


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[Beendare]

Here's how I would attack the problem:

Plan A) Clamp a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grips") as tightly as possible on the exposed bolt stub then slowly try to back the bolt out.

Plan B) Grind out a groove across the exposed end of the bolt with a cut-off disc in a Dremel tool or angle grinder then use a flat screwdriver to back the bolt out like you would a flat-head screw. You might want to mask off part of the riser with painter's tape so you don't damage the finish while grinding.

Plan C) Buy a screw extractor kit.

This^....a little bit of penetrating oil on it for a day would help too.

_____

 

[Billy Goat]

Having been there - if you can't EASILY get it to come out with a good set of vice grips, I'd take it to someone unless you've had experience working with this stuff.

Drilling: Definitely don't try and drill it without a drill press like @Billy Goat Suggested. Freehand it's too easy for the bit to "walk" and you want to start small, center it, so it leaves you metal for an extractor to "bite" into. And, you want to be able to re-drill progressively larger if needed without touching the riser.

The tig weld a nut trick does work, and it is probably the best/easiest option (for someone with the tools/skill), because you can size up the nut to go over damaged threads, or run a die over them, and you have a lot of control over the amperage and heat you put into the metal. (And, that heat and metal expansion often helps free stuff ip) But, you need someone with the gear and knows what they're doing so they don't overheat things. I've had that work when drilling / extractors / etc failed, but then again I have a Tig Welder, drill press, band saw, etc downstairs...

Hadn't considered welding on a bow before, think a bolt in the stabilizer hole for the ground?

 

[5MilesBack]

There's definitely enough bolt there to get a hold of with some vice grips.

 

[Brendan]

Hadn't considered welding on a bow before, think a bolt in the stabilizer hole for the ground?

For the record, I've never done this on a bow. I have used the exact trick to get broken bolts out of other things though that were broken off almost flush.

With an aluminum bow, should be able to clamp almost anywhere depending on the coating - or, bolt in the stabilizer hole should work. With a Carbon bow it'd be tough, you'd need to use a wire directly to the bolt you were welding, not sure I'd trust carbon to take the heat anyways though.

 

[Billy Goat]

For the record, I've never done this on a bow. I have used the exact trick to get broken bolts out of other things though that were broken off almost flush.

With an aluminum bow, should be able to clamp almost anywhere depending on the coating - or, bolt in the stabilizer hole should work. With a Carbon bow it'd be tough, you'd need to use a wire directly to the bolt you were welding, not sure I'd trust carbon to take the heat anyways though.

Carbon bow you could remove the sight plate, Hoyt already had you do that on one run.

I'd figure the finish on an aluminum bow would keep it from grounding, I always grind on my ground point. Maybe instead of welding a nut just use a big rod or even a screw driver, put your ground on whatever you weld to the bolt.

Either way I have taken this way off topic now.

 

[Evol]

Thanks everyone, LAS was able to remove it for me.


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[Ucsdryder]

How did they get it out?

 

[Evol]

I couldn’t get to the store to pick it up before they closed but I’ll ask when I grab it on Tuesday.


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[Elkhntr08]

This is why I keep a set of flat bottom taps around. Aluminum will oxidize causing a bolt to seize. Run a good tap in and no issues. A regular tap will work, but don’t get overly aggressive when it bottoms out.