Broadheads for Elk

[TriX10]

G5 Striker for me

 

[johnw]

Theres a lot of good podcasts that break down the different broadheads...for lack of resources I have just relied on what others tests have shown.

I started out shooting the G5s and have killed elk/deer with them. Switched to Iron Wills v100s last year and had success on a bull with a frontal shot. Switching it up to the S100s this year, they dont whistle as bad as the vented ones do.

 

[southsidenando]

From Illinois and when I dropped off my bow to get restrung, the shop dudes said my regular whitetail muzzy fixed broad heads would do fine - but who know if those dudes have even seen a mountain, let alone shot an elk...

 

[Wapiti1]

Fixed blade Muzzy's have probably killed more elk than any other broadhead. They've been around forever and just work.

Jeremy

 

[sf jakey]

I have used muzzy, slick trick and now QAD exodus. Exodus flies 5he best and is by far the toughest of the 3. My first bull was a muzzy, and it came apart in the bull. Never again. ST’s flew good but no blood trail. Exodus is better but still not a great blood trail. Still looking for that tough head that makes a big cut, not sure I will find it.

 

[Btaylor]

I have used muzzy, slick trick and now QAD exodus. Exodus flies 5he best and is by far the toughest of the 3. My first bull was a muzzy, and it came apart in the bull. Never again. ST’s flew good but no blood trail. Exodus is better but still not a great blood trail. Still looking for that tough head that makes a big cut, not sure I will find it.

Only reason you wont find it is lack of looking. There are a lot of heads that fit that description.

 

[sf jakey]

Only reason you wont find it is lack of looking. There are a lot of heads that fit that description.

Well, I’ve been looking, but I am not fond of experimenting on elk, so overwhelming positive feedback is my only option. Considering a mechanical, but have been told forever not to use them on elk. I like the Trypan and I also like the Sevr, at least from what I read. Bought a trypan to try on blacktail if I find one worth shooting this season.

 

[Btaylor]

Well, I’ve been looking, but I am not fond of experimenting on elk, so overwhelming positive feedback is my only option. Considering a mechanical, but have been told forever not to use them on elk. I like the Trypan and I also like the Sevr, at least from what I read. Bought a trypan to try on blacktail if I find one worth shooting this season.

The first time you shoot a critter with any head is an experiment. Only thing we can do is shoot the heads before we hunt to make sure that they fly where we intend for them too.

 

[eltaco]

The first time you shoot a critter with any head is an experiment. Only thing we can do is shoot the heads before we hunt to make sure that they fly where we intend for them too.

I think he’s suggesting that he’d prefer to make choices based on positive feedback by this community of hunters. Makes sense to me.

I’m considering a grim reaper 4-blade 1-1/4” mini-mag this year based on my positive experience with the larger Grim Reaper Carni-four last year on deer. Pass thru on a couple of critters and huge blood trails. Excellent flight with the mechanical, even when form isn’t perfect and/or windy days.

 

[87TT]

I have been shooting Kudupoint 125's and like how they fly. I did shoot a bull last year with them but only nicked him I think. Think I clipped a branch. Only a small amount of blood for about 10 feet. I watched him walk over the hill with no sign of a hit. I gave him a couple of hours and followed his tracks for about a half a mile with no more blood after the first ten feet. I have heard that the blood trails with them are not that good. I have some QAD Exodus but they shoot low and to the right of my field tips. About 5" low and 2" right at 40 yards. That is out of two tuned bows. I have shot Muzzy MX3's and the Kudupoints and they hit right with the field tips. I have some G5 Montecs and some Slick Tricks that I am going to try next.

 

[sf jakey]

By the way, I am new poster here, but have been a member and reading for many years. Was active on archerytalk, but hunting info has been lacking there. Seems to be more guys with real experience in what I do over here

The first time you shoot a critter with any head is an experiment. Only thing we can do is shoot the heads before we hunt to make sure that they fly where we intend for them too.

I get that. Ive killed 9 bull elk and 2 cows with archery equip. Each taught me something new, and each is responsible for my changes. Honestly, after leaving Muzzy all have killed well, but blood trails even on the best shots have been marginal every time.

 

[elkdog]

Magnus SS Snuffers.

 

[Scooter90254]

Another Vote for G5 Stryker/Montec. Fly like field points for me.

 

[New2elk]

has anyone used the rage no collar?

 

[Farmingdale's Finest]

I have used muzzy, slick trick and now QAD exodus. Exodus flies 5he best and is by far the toughest of the 3. My first bull was a muzzy, and it came apart in the bull. Never again. ST’s flew good but no blood trail. Exodus is better but still not a great blood trail. Still looking for that tough head that makes a big cut, not sure I will find it.

Please tell me how a muzzy came apart ? I have shot dozens of deer with them and the worst I could do was when I put a doe down that was hit by a car infront of my office. Shot it at two feet and put it into the paved road. The ferrule was still perfect and two blades had some gouges . With the tip screwing in from the front I just don’t see how this head could come apart?


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[LIWolverine]

I have only shot one elk. 51yd shot. 82nd airborne 73# @ 29.5” Beeman ICS, Muzzy Phantom 4 blade 125gr. Right behind the shoulder. Arrow went straight through like he wasn’t even there. I never even found the arrow after it went through. Bull went 50yrds. I don’t believe I could ever trust a mechanical on anything bigger than a mule deer. I know they are plenty capable these days but I just can’t get past all the years of using cut on contacts.

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[sf jakey]

Please tell me how a muzzy came apart ? I have shot dozens of deer with them and the worst I could do was when I put a doe down that was hit by a car infront of my office. Shot it at two feet and put it into the paved road. The ferrule was still perfect and two blades had some gouges . With the tip screwing in from the front I just don’t see how this head could come apart?


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Don’t know. It was 2002, and we had the same thing happen on 2 bulls. We recovered mine quickly, but not the other one. Never used a muzzy again, and often wonder what happened given all the positive reviews. Maybe a bad batch, who knows. One of the blades broke off at the bend where it locks into the ferrule. Other bull all 3 blades broke. Maybe user error, it was a long time ago.

 

[Btaylor]

By the way, I am new poster here, but have been a member and reading for many years. Was active on archerytalk, but hunting info has been lacking there. Seems to be more guys with real experience in what I do over here

I get that. Ive killed 9 bull elk and 2 cows with archery equip. Each taught me something new, and each is responsible for my changes. Honestly, after leaving Muzzy all have killed well, but blood trails even on the best shots have been marginal every time.

I have killed one cow in three attempts so you have more elk experience for sure. That elk was killed with a G5 Deadmeat. It went 75 yards and tipped over. The blood trail was okay but not what I would call great by any stretch. Also killed a few deer with them last year and the results were nearly identical, nothing made it 85 yards but not a single blood trail was close to impressive. Only Grim Reaper I have hunted with were the Carni-fours and they had better blood trails but nearly every deer ran atleast 100 yards. Mechanical wise I would hunt elk with a standard spitfire with absolute confidence. I have never had penetration issues, seldom has a deer made it to 100 yards and the blood trails have always been really heavy. Replaceable blade fixed, I would screw on a thunderhead and again have absolute confidence that if I turn it loose something is going to die shortly and the blood trail wont be difficult to follow. 2 blade fixed, I have absolute confidence in the original GK silver flames, shot enough deer and hogs with a trad bow and that head to know it isnt going to lack for penetration or blood trail.

Have a buddy that tested the new Sik mechanicals last year and holy cow the blood trails those things consistently produced were just stupid but every deer he shot with them ran at least 100 yards. His primary head is the 1 3/8 grim reaper because the blood trails are great and deer generally wont make 75 yards and the 2 elk he has killed with them didnt pass that either.

In a lot of years chasing stuff with a bow here is what I believe to be pretty accurate, some heads leave great blood trails, some heads kill faster than other, some heads do both. Bow tune and accuracy optimize the efficiency of whatever head is screwed on the end. If a guy is serious about his equipment being in top tune and he shoots well, pay attention to the results he reports with a given head because those guys are generally getting out of a head what that head is capable of producing. In other words there are lots of folks that will bad mouth a head but the bow they are hunting with is not tuned, the arrow setup is janky and they are not accurate enough to consistently hit an animal squarely in the vitals.

 

[sf jakey]

I have killed one cow in three attempts so you have more elk experience for sure. That elk was killed with a G5 Deadmeat. It went 75 yards and tipped over. The blood trail was okay but not what I would call great by any stretch. Also killed a few deer with them last year and the results were nearly identical, nothing made it 85 yards but not a single blood trail was close to impressive. Only Grim Reaper I have hunted with were the Carni-fours and they had better blood trails but nearly every deer ran atleast 100 yards. Mechanical wise I would hunt elk with a standard spitfire with absolute confidence. I have never had penetration issues, seldom has a deer made it to 100 yards and the blood trails have always been really heavy. Replaceable blade fixed, I would screw on a thunderhead and again have absolute confidence that if I turn it loose something is going to die shortly and the blood trail wont be difficult to follow. 2 blade fixed, I have absolute confidence in the original GK silver flames, shot enough deer and hogs with a trad bow and that head to know it isnt going to lack for penetration or blood trail.

Have a buddy that tested the new Sik mechanicals last year and holy cow the blood trails those things consistently produced were just stupid but every deer he shot with them ran at least 100 yards. His primary head is the 1 3/8 grim reaper because the blood trails are great and deer generally wont make 75 yards and the 2 elk he has killed with them didnt pass that either.

In a lot of years chasing stuff with a bow here is what I believe to be pretty accurate, some heads leave great blood trails, some heads kill faster than other, some heads do both. Bow tune and accuracy optimize the efficiency of whatever head is screwed on the end. If a guy is serious about his equipment being in top tune and he shoots well, pay attention to the results he reports with a given head because those guys are generally getting out of a head what that head is capable of producing. In other words there are lots of folks that will bad mouth a head but the bow they are hunting with is not tuned, the arrow setup is janky and they are not accurate enough to consistently hit an animal squarely in the vitals.

I understand all that. I am obsessed with the details of tuning my bow, my arrows and myself. I really want to find a good broadhead that it tough and will produce good blood trails. I know a shoulder shot is a loser, nothing will work, at best you may get one lung. That doesnt get an elk down. Its the perfect double lung shots, maybe at midpoint up the body that don’t bleed very well in my experience. If you hold low, you can miss lung, and if you hold low forward, you bring the shoulderblade into play. I understand anatomy, and I also know what has happened to me and my hunting partners in the past. I’m not a know it all, and am looking for real world feedback, while sharing my experiences. Thx

 

[AC300win]

A lot of good discussion here and anyone reading the posts will gain valuable knowledge that can be used to make important equipment decisions. I was in an archery shop a few weeks ago and the owners were discussing how legalization of mechanical's in Oregon is going to make it so much easier for newbies, since they "won't have to worry too much about tuning their bows with mechanicals." In my opinion, there is no substitute for finely tuned archery equipment. The most expensive bow, arrow and broadhead combination not in fine tune is subject to performance uncertainly on large mass animals no questions.