Bring sharpener for fixed blade or ditch it for a Havalon?

[SirFellowShrimp]

Hey y'all,

Thanks for any input. I'm hoping for advice for a backcountry kit for boning out a mule deer. I want to go very lightweight as I'm hunting far out there but don't want to sacrifice my ability to do a good, thorough job. It will be my first time butchering a deer and I want to do it well.

The question is, if I buy a sharpener for my Morakniv Companion that I already own is that a decent setup? Or would I really benefit from having something like a Havalon Piranta? Would anyone make an argument that I should really be bringing both?

Thanks Much,
-S

 

[sndmn11]

Would anyone make an argument that I should really be bringing both?

Thanks Much,
-S

I do, and I take a small ceramic or steel for the fixed blade. Your safest knife is going to be the sharpest, so regularly touching up but blades will keep it gliding rather than dragging. I like the handiness of the piranta sized blades, but don't overlook the barracuta sized blades either.

 

[Bubblehide]

I would not start with a Havalon, as it taks time for most to learn to use it without breaking blades. Havalons take a gentil touch while keeping the blade moving to cut. Basically it's a scaple. If you put pressure on the blade, it breaks pretty quickly. With that said, all I've used for years is a Havalon, from start to finish skinning, gutting abd deboning. I can do an entire deer with 1 blade.

My advice is use a good fixed blade. A good stainless or mangacut knife can easily do a deer without sharpening. But since your just starting out, bring something small to touch up the knife, as you will likely drag it across bone instead of sliding it along the bone. You can also take a Havalon on hunts, and try your hand at it, but it will likely be a learning process.

 

[Bubblehide]

By the way, lots of guys cut themselves with Havalons, some badly, that seldom happens with a fixed blade knife.

 

[Maverick1]

I would only bring a knife and a sharpener. If you are concerned about losing, breaking, or chipping a single knife, just buy another Morakniv Companion (for $25 or so) and bring it with.

Over the years, I have read too many instances on this site (and others) where hunters have inadvertently cut themselves replacing the blades on the disposable/replaceable blade-style knives. Sure, those styles of knives might work really well, and appear to be safe, except when they aren't. Naysayers might pipe in and say "I've never cut myself using that type of knife" - and that's fine. But, stuff happens. And, when it's at the end of a long day, it's dark, and you are undernourished and dehydrated from the day's activities, that is when an accident is most likely to happen. Don't underestimate how different your mind and body work - or don't - under such conditions. IMO that situation is probably one of the most dangerous times in the backcountry; no need to add a thin, breakable, "I need to concentrate and be steady" knife to the equation at that moment in time. KISS, fixed blade or folding blade.

If either of those options are not appealing, just bring along a fixed or folding blade with a S30V or S90V steel and you likely would not have a problem quartering a deer using the gutless method without having to resharpen the knife.

Good luck on your journey!

 

[SirFellowShrimp]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. Sounds like to start I might want to avoid relying on a Havalon. I have a bit of freehand sharpening experience so I will plan to touch up the fixed blade Morakniv I already own.

I'm looking at some small portable DMT diamond sharpeners with multiple grits (LINK). How much will a carless move on bone typically hurt a knife's edge? Would y'all suggest a fine/coarse combo or would a fine/extra fine combo likely be adequate?

Thanks much.

 

[justinspicher]

On my first attempt to use a Havalon, I broke several blades. I am generally hard on gear, but this was enough for me to switch back to fixed blades. I find that I am more confident in using a fixed blade and it doesnt take much to resharpen them if you are consistent with it.

 

[Poser]

I used Havalons for a couple of years. Removing a bloody blade with bloody hands is quite risky. I also snapped a number of blades even losing a few blades into the carcass which is also very risky. I went back to a fixed blade and carry a small sharpening stick which I use often and proactively on animals such as bear and elk.

 

[Mike D Texas]

I quit using the havalon for heavier work and only use it for fine detail work for the reasons mentioned.

I use the outdoor edge razor blaze and it is a much more robust blade and still razor sharp and changeable.


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[butcherboy]

Use a fixed blade and bring a small steel for touch up. There are also small lightweight coarse sharpeners you can bring if you think you need it then use a fine steel. Should be fine with a sharp knife and just a steel. I used my MKC Blackfoot knife on my elk in September and never touched it up.

 

[Zdub02]

Would y'all suggest a fine/coarse combo or would a fine/extra fine combo likely be adequate?

I have the course/fine combo and have good luck with touch ups

 

[mtnbound]

I have used the Havalon style of knife for years and they do work well but the blades do break easily and you need to carry some type of container to keep the discarded blades in. Changing the blades can be tricky but there are methods you can research. I use my Leatherman tool to change them. I have cut myself on more than one occasion with them so I also started carrying fish fillet cut resistant gloves. Gerber has a decent blade carry container and a decent knife as well. I currently have a good fixed blade and a Work Sharp Pocket sharpener in my kill kit in addition to one of the Gerber scalpel knives as a backup.

 

[sndmn11]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. Sounds like to start I might want to avoid relying on a Havalon. I have a bit of freehand sharpening experience so I will plan to touch up the fixed blade Morakniv I already own.

I'm looking at some small portable DMT diamond sharpeners with multiple grits (LINK). How much will a carless move on bone typically hurt a knife's edge? Would y'all suggest a fine/coarse combo or would a fine/extra fine combo likely be adequate?

Thanks much.

I'm in the camp that has never had an issue with breaking a havalon blade or getting them off.

I use the large version of this https://shop.gossmanknives.com/shop/ols/products/gst-gossman-survival-tool-small
I think you'd be ok with a fine or ultra fine ceramic stick or flat if that's your preference.

If you are letting the cut lead the way you aren't going to hurt your cutting edge in any way that won't take a quick strop to bring back. If you are rolling/twisting out of cuts, prying, hacking, you are likely beating up the edge. If you find yourself gripping more than you would holding an egg or a baby's hand, you probably aren't letting the edge work for you. You shouldn't be sharpening in the field, you are just honing like a butcher.

 

[PredatorSlayer]

I have gone to benchmades with S30v or S90v. I can skin and quarter/debone an entire elk without feeling I need a touch up. With their lifesharp program, I haven’t needed to sharpen a knife in years.

I do have an outdoor edge replaceable blade knife. I have never had a blade break on them and have processed 4 moose with it. Its the bigger one - the Razor Bone I think.

 

[5MilesBack]

My fixed blade is S30V and will complete a whole elk easily without resharpening. I used to carry a sharpener, but my Havalon weighs about the same so started carrying it and leave the sharpener at home. Now I use the Havalon for most the work, and my knife is my backup.

 

[hereinaz]

Outdoor Edge is stronger than Havalon blades, I have never had one break. I can usually get through one animal with one blade. I run with one spare blade. I started sharpening the old blades at home. They sharpen about like a Morakniv to me.

And, I use the Havalon for detail work in camp.

I thought about using a fixed blade, and have a bunch of nice ones. I would be happy to carry one, but end up taking the Outdoor Edge. Having the extra blades makes me feel better.

Changing blades on the Outdoor Edge is easy enough that I chose to stick with it over a fixed blade.

 

[Legend]

Hey y'all,

Thanks for any input. I'm hoping for advice for a backcountry kit for boning out a mule deer. I want to go very lightweight as I'm hunting far out there but don't want to sacrifice my ability to do a good, thorough job. It will be my first time butchering a deer and I want to do it well.

The question is, if I buy a sharpener for my Morakniv Companion that I already own is that a decent setup? Or would I really benefit from having something like a Havalon Piranta? Would anyone make an argument that I should really be bringing both?

Thanks Much,
-S

Deer are small.

Sharpen your knife before the hunt. There is no real need to resharpen if it is a decent blade.

 

[Dos Perros]

I really think the Outdoor Edge is the answer here. Cuts like a Havalon, just a touch heavier, but still robust. I'm not great at the knee joints and the skulls and I tend to pry a bit and I've never broken a blade.

The only downside I see on them is sometimes they gum up and replacing a blade isn't as straight forward as a new or clean knife.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Deer are small.

Sharpen your knife before the hunt. There is no real need to resharpen if it is a decent blade.

This is exactly what I was thinking. For one deer it doesn’t even take 30 minutes to have it ready to pack out. If you’re dulling a good quality and sharp fixed blade on one deer you are making mistakes.

 

[Dos Perros]

I managed to get a super cheap Bear Grylls Gerber knife really sharp and took apart an entire whitetail doe with ease. I think if you're careful you could get through a mule deer without even touching up. Do the knuckles and the skull last.