Brass cleaning process.. which is best

[fisherman983]

I've been using a sonic cleaner to clean my brass for quite some time..
Is it hindering me? Should I switch to tumbling brass with media? If so what tumbler and what media?
What are the downsides/upsides to both?

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[Shooter Mike]

I deprime, sonic clean, anneal, resize and then dry tumble to remove lube.

I used to wet tumble but it just takes longer than I cared to wait to finish, and I got tired of messing with the steel pins. Being super shiny isn’t a big deal for me. Not having to mess with the steel pins is very appealing to me. Folks say the steel pins can damage necks over time. I’ve never noticed it, but I suppose it’s possible. But damn those steel pins for getting in places you don’t want them.


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[sdupontjr]

Deprime (using a stand-alone separate die to punch primers so I don't get my sizing die dirty)
Tumble (corn media, blow out brass with air compressor, some pieces get stuck in flash hole)
Anneal
Lube (spray with homemade lube, liquid lanolin / 99% alcohol)
FL Resize
Clean (either tumble them again or just wipe off with a cloth, depends on if I have time to wipe off)
Load
Shoot

 

[jfk69]

I dry tumble with Lyman corn media. I don’t care if they’re super shiny and wet tumbling just involves another step (drying).

 

[bluemoonx]

Get the tumbler and media. If dirty primer pockets worry you, use a primer pocket uniformer. Personally, I don't care. Reloading is not a cheap hobby. Going to have to drop some coin eventually.

 

[HiMtnHntr]

I use a dry tumbler to get all the crud off before and after I resize and trim. Then I use an ultrasonic to get the lube off and squeaky clean.

 

[flyfisher117]

I have never ultrasonic cleaned my brass. I used to exclusively dry tumble, but I didn't like how dirty it left it the cases, I had a couple sizing dies get scratched internally from the dust build up inside. Even with me cleaning the die every 100 cases.

Switched to wet tumbling and SS pins and enjoy it. I don't mind drying as I do a large batch of brass so while the first run is drying I'm tumbling the 2nd run and sometimes even prepping the 3rd. Once the 3rd round is ready to dry the 1st is ready to size.

After sizing I will dry tumble to remove the lube usually just corn cob as it's cheap.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I cleaned my brass when I first started reloading. I quickly learned that it didn’t matter and stopped doing it.

Haven’t cleaned brass in several years.

 

[TxLite]

I started wet tumbling with SS pins maybe 2 years ago. While I love how clean it gets the brass, it’s a total pain getting the pins out of the brass. I’ve found several occasions where I pull the brass out of the tumbler and pins are stuck/hiding inside the case.

I end up having to go one by one, shaking the case/hitting it on the side of the tumbler upside down in water to knock all the pins loose so I don’t accidentally send one down the barrel.

I find when I don’t use media it doesn’t get the primer pockets as well as the pins, and obviously the inside of the case doesn’t get as clean. I really don’t think it plays any part in accuracy or consistency vs no media but I like shiny things.

For bulk stuff like 556 I don’t bother with the pins for the sake of time.

 

[Lawnboi]

I dry tumble in Lyman corn for exactly 2 hours every time.


Overly clean necks can cause issues .

I havnt cleaned primer pocket in years, even on brass fired in the double digits. Normally I’m just tumbling with the spent primers in.

 

[Patoka]

I deprime, sonic clean, anneal, resize and then dry tumble to remove lube.

I used to wet tumble but it just takes longer than I cared to wait to finish, and I got tired of messing with the steel pins. Being super shiny isn’t a big deal for me. Not having to mess with the steel pins is very appealing to me. Folks say the steel pins can damage necks over time. I’ve never noticed it, but I suppose it’s possible. But damn those steel pins for getting in places you don’t want them.


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You solve that problem by side cutters and wire from Temu. Cut them twice as long as standard. Problem solved. Use Armorall carwash and citric acid. Run the brew in hot water for 3 hours. Come out very clean.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Easiest and least labor intensive process I've found is size and deprime in a standard FL die using homemade lanolin/alcohol lube, toss them in a tumbler full of ground white rice and tumble for an hour or two, run through a media separator, roll em all back and forth in a bath towel a couple times.

 

[Mikido]

Clean brass? Such a waste of time

 

[goathunter]

Clean brass? Such a waste of time

How do you get resizing lube off then? I use Hornady one shot and it would build up in my chamber if I didn't clean after resizing

 

[SamsonMan22]

How do you get resizing lube off then? I use Hornady one shot and it would build up in my chamber if I didn't clean after resizing

I just wipe it off with a rag.

 

[MallardSX2]

I use a vibratory tumbler for a couple hours and then give them a few twists in the steel wool to get any carbon off the necks.
Then I re-size.
Then I trim.
Then I hit them with a primer pocket brush and a uniformer.
Then I use the center drill attachment in the flash hole. Inside of the case and outside of the case.
Then I de-bur the neck. Inside and out.
Then I take my air compressor and blow the case off, wipe it off with a paper towel and put it in the rack.
Takes me a few minutes but I enjoy the process.

Takes me about 2 minute per case.

I don't shoot that much so it doesn't really matter to me if it takes me a few hours to reload a few boxes.

 

[ddowning]

Easiest and least labor intensive process I've found is size and deprime in a standard FL die using homemade lanolin/alcohol lube, toss them in a tumbler full of ground white rice and tumble for an hour or two, run through a media separator, roll em all back and forth in a bath towel a couple times.

^^^
This is the way. Unless your brass is full of sand, there is no reason to clean it before sizing. Even a custom die will last as long as the chamber reamer sizing dirty brass, so the $$$ outlay isn't that big of a deal over time.

Wet tumbling is a pain in the ass and tumbling twice is a waste of time. If I could figure out a faster, easier way to get the sizing lube off than tumbling, I wouldn't tumble at all.

 

[greyghostnw]

Frankfurt arsenal tumbler, there cleaning solution, imagine u can use many products but its cheap, works nicely…Steel pins are easy, just shake any out when you take them out of tumbler, they get a thorough rinse till no bubbles in other words clear water in tumbler and solution is not present. never had a problem its fast, i dry in oven on tray low heat, like 170, 30 minutes or so. I clean every time. Ive hurd Eric Cortina say he tested clean no clean with no difference, he dosnt clean, f class champ etc… i do because i like fresh looking brass, no sharpie marks on any from testing etc.If you go this route i recommend using something like forsters micah powder to inside neck before sizing. Its put on a brush and spun in neck. They sell a tray with different caliber brushes containing powder. If you dont do anything the brass is so clean i believe drag is introduced in ball or mandrel due to brass being do clean, the micah powder dosnt introduce or interfere with dimensional change, nor need to be removed, its there to do its job, providing consistent movement, good luck.

 

[greyghostnw]

^^^
This is the way. Unless your brass is full of sand, there is no reason to clean it before sizing. Even a custom die will last as long as the chamber reamer sizing dirty brass, so the $$$ outlay isn't that big of a deal over time.

Wet tumbling is a pain in the ass and tumbling twice is a waste of time. If I could figure out a faster, easier way to get the sizing lube off than tumbling, I wouldn't tumble at all.

I use a paper towel to wipe sizing lube off every case after sized, never re tumbled never had a problem. I get single digits.

 

[EdP]

Hindering you in what way?