Blaser R8 Field Evaluation

[Stinky Coyote]

haven't followed long term blaser stuff but that would be interesting to know if neglected chambers pit or build up such that case welds into the irregularities like a neglected blued rifle, don't think I've seen a report of that on a blaser but first hand seen it several times on non stainless regular rifles and caught some in time for friends whatever and cleaned up chamber before too late, also somehow screwed up at least one of my rifles sometime back and had to get a new barrel, stainless sure seems to offer a lot more forgiveness to that, I'm sure blaser is far different than this and much closer to stainless ability or equal or better? just a mental condition from being bitten in past for me and not so with stainless so when I saw signs of that little bit of surface spotting I got on it and cleaned up well but part of why I moved away from my k95 on top of wanting a repeater

 

[Formidilosus]

Update to post #2.

 

[Southern Lights]

@Formidilosus You said:

" The front lever does not have as much tension when tightening down as the rear- and I believe that is where the slight error is. I have not seen this with other Blasers I have used, so I will try to run it down."

If you are using the Blaser mount, the tension must be adjusted for the barrel it is fitted on. This is done with the "star" screw opposite the lever on the mount. It will require a Blaser mount adjustment screwdriver, or a very thin bladed one. Basically, you will need to tighten it a bit, then close the lever until it has just modest tension to do it finger tight. The front lever is too loose for that barrel and adjusting this screw will fix the problem as each barrel will have very slight differences from manufacturing. Make sure both levers are equally tight, but you don't need to dog them down.

Once completed for that barrel, you shouldn't really have to mess with it again except for just checking every now and then if it feels loose.

You can look up adjusting Blaser mounts online and see what I mean. You can see the two star shaped screws is in this image.

 

[TheWhitetailNut]

How would you say their long-term durability is, compared to something like a Tikka or a CRF M70 - things like small parts commonly breaking, or bigger durability issues?

Any thoughts or info on them as big-bore Dangerous Game guns, for Cape Buffalo, etc?

In the African bush, lore rules the day. I have found any grumblings about the R8 actually to be rooted in the R93. That said I pay attention to dust in mine. My favorite PH was duty bound to tell me the Blaser doesn't like dust when I pulled mine from the case. What I found while I was there though is their own R93 camp rifle in .375 had never been cleaned in over 20 years on the back of a Bakkie.

Mine wears a full custom fluted Krieger in .458 Lott or a factory .338.

 

[Stinky Coyote]

Form, super cool info on post #2. From recollection on mine you're supposed to tighten front scope gizmo first then the rear and you can swivel those around like the quick detach hub lever on a bicycle wheels to adjust the tension when tightening.

I ran mine uncomfortably 'dint your thumb' snug when pushing(pulling) them down into position before fold over to lock, made sure they were definitely down to bottom of travel before fold over to lock, and made sure both were about same tension with emphasis on the front one.

Although I never tested it as you have with the 10 shot groups volumes and trying to find the weaknesses of going rear 1st then front etc. I may not have seen any issues like you but I always did the same thing on and off, front rear on in that order, and reversed that for off although taking it off prolly not a thing, then fold them little cams over when putting away so they don't have tendency to rotate while in case or pack and get a rotation out on tension. Never lost zero or any confidence in the rifle or system the entire time I had it and proved it.

Be interesting to see what you do and the retest.

 

[ebrownw2]

Yes, each scope mount has to be adjusted to fit the barrel it’s being used on. According to Blaser the tension when clamping on the scope mount should feel similar to the tension in the cocking mechanism/safety.

 

[ebrownw2]

I had a hard time believing the repeatability myself when I got my first R8. Did all of that. Removing scope between shots, removing barrel between shots. Like this test after about 15-20 rounds I had around a 1” group (100yds). It works. I would really like to see the QD mount drop tested with a SWFA in it, though.

Everything Blaser seems so absurdly overpriced until you use one. Then it’s still ridiculously overpriced, but you’ll find a way.

 

[RockAndSage]

In the African bush, lore rules the day. I have found any grumblings about the R8 actually to be rooted in the R93. That said I pay attention to dust in mine. My favorite PH was duty bound to tell me the Blaser doesn't like dust when I pulled mine from the case. What I found while I was there though is their own R93 camp rifle in .375 had never been cleaned in over 20 years on the back of a Bakkie.

Mine wears a full custom fluted Krieger in .458 Lott or a factory .338.

Good stuff, and makes sense. Who did your Krieger barrel?

 

[Stinky Coyote]

Yes, each scope mount has to be adjusted to fit the barrel it’s being used on. According to Blaser the tension when clamping on the scope mount should feel similar to the tension in the cocking mechanism/safety.

good to know, I went more traditional 'farmer tight', didn't get that memo, how do you gauge that though?, the whole thumb pushes the cocking button which fills the bulk of the thumb pad, same tension on the scope mounts skinny flipper should leave a dent in your thumb for a few seconds to be 'equal' right?

maybe ft/lbs of each should be measured and applied haha

 

[ebrownw2]

good to know, I went more traditional 'farmer tight', didn't get that memo, how do you gauge that though?, the whole thumb pushes the cocking button which fills the bulk of the thumb pad, same tension on the scope mounts skinny flipper should leave a dent in your thumb for a few seconds to be 'equal' right?

maybe ft/lbs of each should be measured and applied haha

Yeah, I know. Maybe if we get a drop test on the mount we will learn something more definitive to go off of.

 

[ebrownw2]

Well now I need one.

Whats the setup weigh?

Weight has been the biggest gripe with the R8 since it came out and was noticeably heavier than the R93. If you’re a weight weenie interested in Blasers, the K95 might be your ticket. However, there are ways to get a R8 plenty light enough to carry all day.

This R8 setup is 7.98lbs with a full length std weight fluted 270win barrel and Rokslide’s favorite scope. It’s a custom made carbon fiber stock, which I see another feller on this thread also has. So, they’re out there.



For comparison a Tikka in 6.5x55, also fluted, in a Rokstok, wearing the same scope is….7.92lbs. It’s also about 2” longer overall with a slightly shorter barrel….

 

[Stinky Coyote]

Yeah, I know. Maybe if we get a drop test on the mount we will learn something more definitive to go off of.

I'd wager it passes as the rings only chance to move will be in the machined groove they set in on the scope base itself, left/right side drops perhaps, one could maybe go all rokslide on those and bed/weld them in with goop etc. I had my machinest pull the lowest 1" rings I could get and shave a bit off bottom of ring bases and reinstall to the base to perfect the cheek to scope alignment on mine and ran an older Leupold vx3 2.5-8 with a shop installed lr duplex reticle which with the 24" .270 win barrel and speed worked out wonderful with 250 zero and the 3 hash marks lined up perfectly with 350/450/550 yards, on straight stocked k95. A dandy set up for the sheep obsession I had at the time and all the parks I had to navigate with rifle in pieces in pack. I did all my proving post mods to the scope mount, nothing moved for years, not even the Leupold lol. It's all steel, gonna take one heckuva wallop to even suggest the rings could move in their snug little groove, if there is a weak link in their system it will be the ring to base junction but that's a big 'if'. The base that cams onto the rifle will not budge if tensioned properly and without the help of enthusiastic persuasion with a 3lb sledge hammer...my thoughts anyway. Form is a whole different level of gear prover though so it's fun to watch this thread lol