Best boot leather conditioner/waterproofing?

[cornfedkiller]

It is hard to best mink oil, a heat gun and elbow grease for maintaining leather.

Kenetrek states to not use conditioners that are high in animal fats/oils on boots with rubber rands or parts that are glued on because it will cause the glue to break down.

They also say to not use heat because it can lead to rand delamination. breakdown of the waterproof membrane, etc.

 

[notchfir3]

I use Obenaufs primarily on my leather work and huning boots.

On most recent Alaska trip, my feet were wet in spite of the Obenauf treatment and goretex lining. Walking through muskeg and wet forest mud took it’s toll. My hunting bro had a different brand of boot and his feet stayed appropriately dry, even though we both treated our boots together with obenaufs before heading out.

I’m interested to hear more about how the tanning process plays into the equation of leather water proofing (vegetable tanned vs. oil tanned).

 

[*zap*]

The 'fine print' is always a cya. I have had zero issues and used heat with mink oil or sno seal for an awful long time. You do have to use common sense when heating I suppose.....keeping the heat gun moving would be a good idea.

 

[*zap*]

Kenetrek states to not use conditioners that are high in animal fats/oils on boots with rubber rands or parts that are glued on because it will cause the glue to break down.

They also say to not use heat because it can lead to rand delamination. breakdown of the waterproof membrane, etc.

So, no boot dryer?

 

[Achigan1]

Another vote for Montana Pitch Blend - good stuff!

 

[cornfedkiller]

So, no boot dryer?

I think they are referring to higher heat than a boot dryer puts out. My boot dryer hardly heats my boots up higher than room temperature.

 

[*zap*]

I just shot my boot dryer with an ir thermometer and it was 120. 120 or so is plenty to help apply mink oil. Like I said common sense goes a long way. Using a heat gun to help apply conditioner to your boots does not mean getting the footwear hot enough to melt glue or membranes. YMMV.

 

[rfc86]

When I bought my Schnees they recommended Montana Pitch. I used it now for 4 seasons and its great.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Not To derail from the OP but what about Nubuck leather and cordoura boots like Salomon 4ds and the likes?

Tags attached to my Salomon 4d GTX 3 recommended to use Nik wax spray and gel.

 

[MallardSX2]

I always just set my boots in the sun got them nice and hot and used "Snowseal"

 

[chinagreen]

Pecard leather dressing. Been around for a hundred years and works great.

 

[Mosby]

I use Kennetrek boot creme on my best leather hunting boots that have rands. On my less expensive boots that don't have great leather, I use sno seal most of the time. I use Montana Pitch Blend on my leather sheaths and belts, if for no other reason than it smells really good. I put creme on my boots at least 3-4 times a year. With the price of boots these days, it pays to clean them frequently and keep the leather well oiled. They last longer.

 

[jayrad313]

Hubbard’s for me as well. Have the boots and grease room temp before you start. Apply liberally let sit and wipe off the excess. I let them sit overnight and then apply one more coat. Lasts quite a while for me

 

[ropeup79]

I use Huberd's on most of my boots. Work, hunting, cowboy, and packs. Supposed to be made with beeswax and pine tar with no animal fats or solvents. Haven't used it on boots with a rand but it's the best I've found so far for full grain leather boots. I've tried many other brands.

 

[Buckhorn 70]

Up for more opinions....

I thought Onenauf LP was some of the best?

 

[Brendan]

I'm going to give the Crispi stuff a try on a new set of their boots. There's one part of their "pitch" about how it works that makes sense to me. Too much of a "wax" on a boot is better for waterproofness, but will completely seal the boot and eliminate the leather's ability to breathe, and your feet won't dry out.

Plus, if I'm going to spend that much on boots, I'm going to go with what the manufacturer recommends first.

 

[eaglemountainman]

Sno Seal

 

[aclawrence]

I’ve had good luck with sno sneal on my Zamberlans. I also bought some of their hydroblock cream. It works but has a strong odor. I think I’ll switch back to sno sneal for whitetail hunting. The hydroblock has way to much odor to bow hunt in.


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[twall13]

I've been using Grangers for awhile now and like it. I've used snow seal and mink oil in the past and feel like the Grangers is a better product and keeps the boots more breathable. Grangers is what Crispi recommended I use when I asked them years ago before they came out with their own product, which is obviously what they are now going to recommend. I will say I prefer just to use the Grangers leather conditioner and rely a bit more on the goretex on a good stiff boot. And of course, use a good cleaning product to get the dust and grime out of the pores before I apply anything to condition and/or waterproof the leather.

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[Laelkhunter]

I'm going to give the Crispi stuff a try on a new set of their boots. There's one part of their "pitch" about how it works that makes sense to me. Too much of a "wax" on a boot is better for waterproofness, but will completely seal the boot and eliminate the leather's ability to breathe, and your feet won't dry out.

Plus, if I'm going to spend that much on boots, I'm going to go with what the manufacturer recommends first.

I agree. If you spend over $400 for a pair of boots (I have the Crispi Hunter, Idaho, and Wyomings), you have to buy something to treat the boots. Why not buy what the boot maker recommends?? It can't cost that much more than the "other stuff". AND you won't void the warranty if you use their product. My humble opinion only, YMMV.